Raw water issues with 27OB

W

Wolfboy

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2018
Messages
75
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Vessel Name
Magic Hour
MMSI Number
338440967
We have a 2022 R27 OB. This weekend we noticed no water getting into the toilet and hardly any getting into the raw water wash down. I checked the strainer and it was clear. I pulled the hose at the T between the wash down pump and the toilet in the center lazerette and noticed chunks of pink plastic at the connection. At first I thought it might be some sort of internal sleeve but then thought it might be the remains of at anti siphon valve. Once I cleared it things were better, although the toilet still doesn't seem to be filling with water as well after we flush. Has anyone else run into this and does anyone know if they put some sort of valve in the line, and if I need to replace it?

I also noticed that if the boat sits for a week, when I used the raw water wash down for the first time, there is a strong sewage smell. Another 27OB owner noticed the same thing with his boat. I do close the seacock when we leave for the week. Has anyone else come a crossed this sort of thing?
 
I notice the same thing (smelly water supply) in our R27ob. My brothers sailboat has the same problem too. But, my last boat had a fresh water head and never smelled. So I am thinking it has something to do with the sea water in the pipes. If so, then the only solution would be to convert the head to fresh water. I don't think it is worth the downsides to do that though.
 
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Sea critters due off when sitting in a closed system. Raw water washdown is the worst, but it can also do the same in the RW to the head. I switched to freshwater feed to head for this reason. Only cure for RW wash down would be flush with fresh water before closing valves and that's too much trouble. I just run it every week to keep the odor to a minimum.
 
Jcat2010 said:
Sea critters due off when sitting in a closed system. Raw water washdown is the worst, but it can also do the same in the RW to the head. I switched to freshwater feed to head for this reason. Only cure for RW wash down would be flush with fresh water before closing valves and that's too much trouble. I just run it every week to keep the odor to a minimum.
Click to expand...
Did switching to fresh water head have much effect on your water usage?
 
Wolfboy said:
We have a 2022 R27 OB. This weekend we noticed no water getting into the toilet and hardly any getting into the raw water wash down. I checked the strainer and it was clear. I pulled the hose at the T between the wash down pump and the toilet in the center lazerette and noticed chunks of pink plastic at the connection. At first I thought it might be some sort of internal sleeve but then thought it might be the remains of at anti siphon valve. Once I cleared it things were better, although the toilet still doesn't seem to be filling with water as well after we flush. Has anyone else run into this and does anyone know if they put some sort of valve in the line, and if I need to replace it?

I also noticed that if the boat sits for a week, when I used the raw water wash down for the first time, there is a strong sewage smell. Another 27OB owner noticed the same thing with his boat. I do close the seacock when we leave for the week. Has anyone else come a crossed this sort of thing?
Click to expand...
I can’t speak to the line clogging but I will comment on the odor issue.

We had the same issue. I once thought it was just the lav gassing off whenever we flushed but when I got a face full of stank washing down the dinghy I suspected something more. There was a thread not too long ago about installing an inline chlorination filter in place of the sea strainer. The Commodorizer, meters a small amount of chlorine into the salt water system and pretty much destroys all smell. Flushing the head and using the raw water wash no longer stinks. I kept the original sea strainer and install the Commoderizer just the right of it (toward boats starboard.) I technically have two strainers before the raw water pump now allowing me to run with or with the device.
 
I have a 2024 R27ob, and would like to reroute the head water source to fresh water. Does anyone have any info as to how to go about doing this?
 
We had our dealer convert the head on our new 2033 R27 to fresh water flush. The cost was about $300 -$400. There was a standard part which included the all important check valve to prevent anything getting to the water tank. The dealer closed off the original raw water supply hose, but left it in case we / others wanted to convert back.

Yes, we (2 adults - the Admiral & me) do use a bit more fresh water, but it’s averaged less than 1 - 1.5 gallons a day depending on need. The toilet specs say that each flush uses ~ a quart of water each flush. However, that’s tough to measure.

We are on a mooring and used about 6 - 8 gallons a day for cooking and showers during our first year. We were 35 year sailboat owners and experienced enough of the stink of organism death in the head supply water!

Net-net, the change to fresh water flush was an easy and affordable decision: highly recommended!
 
serendipity said:
We had our dealer convert the head on our new 2033 R27 to fresh water flush. The cost was about $300 -$400. There was a standard part which included the all important check valve to prevent anything getting to the water tank. The dealer closed off the original raw water supply hose, but left it in case we / others wanted to convert back.

Yes, we (2 adults - the Admiral & me) do use a bit more fresh water, but it’s averaged less than 1 - 1.5 gallons a day depending on need. The toilet specs say that each flush uses ~ a quart of water each flush. However, that’s tough to measure.

We are on a mooring and used about 6 - 8 gallons a day for cooking and showers during our first year. We were 35 year sailboat owners and experienced enough of the stink of organism death in the head supply water!

Net-net, the change to fresh water flush was an easy and affordable decision: highly recommended!
Click to expand...
Thx for the input…. I approached a couple of places & all I got was “ not recommended because of risk of contamination to the fresh water source”. I wonder if that’s something I could do, it’s just knowing where to make this connection.. thx again..
 
Hensch42 said:
Thx for the input…. I approached a couple of places & all I got was “ not recommended because of risk of contamination to the fresh water source”. I wonder if that’s something I could do, it’s just knowing where to make this connection.. thx again..
Click to expand...
I should have included that the part for the conversion including the check valve was obtained from the toilet manufacturer. We have a SeaEra QC toilet made by Raritan.
 
serendipity said:
We had our dealer convert the head on our new 2033 R27 to fresh water flush. The cost was about $300 -$400. There was a standard part which included the all important check valve to prevent anything getting to the water tank. The dealer closed off the original raw water supply hose, but left it in case we / others wanted to convert back.

Yes, we (2 adults - the Admiral & me) do use a bit more fresh water, but it’s averaged less than 1 - 1.5 gallons a day depending on need. The toilet specs say that each flush uses ~ a quart of water each flush. However, that’s tough to measure.

We are on a mooring and used about 6 - 8 gallons a day for cooking and showers during our first year. We were 35 year sailboat owners and experienced enough of the stink of organism death in the head supply water!

Net-net, the change to fresh water flush was an easy and affordable decision: highly recommended!
Click to expand...
I want to do the same on my 2025. Would you happen to know the part number of the part your dealer used? Or, which dealer? I could call them directly. Thanks!
 
Do not bypass the solenoid:
 
serendipity said:
We had our dealer convert the head on our new 2033 R27 to fresh water flush. The cost was about $300 -$400. There was a standard part which included the all important check valve to prevent anything getting to the water tank. The dealer closed off the original raw water supply hose, but left it in case we / others wanted to convert back.

Yes, we (2 adults - the Admiral & me) do use a bit more fresh water, but it’s averaged less than 1 - 1.5 gallons a day depending on need. The toilet specs say that each flush uses ~ a quart of water each flush. However, that’s tough to measure.

We are on a mooring and used about 6 - 8 gallons a day for cooking and showers during our first year. We were 35 year sailboat owners and experienced enough of the stink of organism death in the head supply water!

Net-net, the change to fresh water flush was an easy and affordable decision: highly recommended!
Click to expand...
Where did they tie into the fresh water line? I assume using a "T" fitting? Do you have any pics? Thanks!
 
S Scott said:
Where did they tie into the fresh water line? I assume using a "T" fitting? Do you have any pics? Thanks!
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Yes, the dealer “T’d” into fresh plumbing and plugged the salt water line. However, I don’t any pics. I will be going to the dealer soon to have some upgrades done. I will ask them and post!
 
To convert the head on our 2023 R27 OB to fresh water flush, our dealer used a “potable conversion kit” for our toilet: part number 162CF1 SEAERA QC. While one should tie in anywhere on the pressure side of the potable pump, our dealer tries to tie into the most accessible pressure line like line to the head sink.

To reference another thread, we do NOT flush paper (TP) down the head. We “bag” our TP in used ziploc bags. While this does preserve tank capacity, it also keeps the tank contents largely organic.
 
When I converted to fresh water, I teed off of the cold water line at the cockpit shower and mounted the solenoid valve next to the head pump in the engine compartment. Easy install. No more smell.
 
serendipity said:
To convert the head on our 2023 R27 OB to fresh water flush, our dealer used a “potable conversion kit” for our toilet: part number 162CF1 SEAERA QC. While one should tie in anywhere on the pressure side of the potable pump, our dealer tries to tie into the most accessible pressure line like line to the head sink.

To reference another thread, we do NOT flush paper (TP) down the head. We “bag” our TP in used ziploc bags. While this does preserve tank capacity, it also keeps the tank contents largely organic.
Click to expand...
I would love to see a video showing your valve and T location. I basically understand your description of what the dealer did, but I’m a visual person and need the visuals for it to click in my head. (Yes that was a head pun).
 
Nice pun! Enjoy your being flush with humor. I, too, would like to see my valve, but have hesitated to deconstruct anything.

We are going back to our dealer next week to have some upgrades done (dinghy lift, additional solar, and AIS). I will ask if they can point out where they added the “T”. If I can snap a pic, I will.

I believe its in the cold water line leading to the head sink. However, that access looks pretty tight.

Let’s see what next week gives us!
 
serendipity said:
Nice pun! Enjoy your being flush with humor. I, too, would like to see my valve, but have hesitated to deconstruct anything.

We are going back to our dealer next week to have some upgrades done (dinghy lift, additional solar, and AIS). I will ask if they can point out where they added the “T”. If I can snap a pic, I will.

I believe its in the cold water line leading to the head sink. However, that access looks pretty tight.

Let’s see what next week gives us!
Click to expand...
I would definitely appreciate that. I’m just trying to close the lid on this project.
 
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