2026 Ranger Tugs going all lithium.

OverTime

PNW South Sound
Joined
Oct 25, 2025
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210
Fluid Motion Model
R-29 CB
Vessel Name
OverTime
I understand that the new line up of Ranger Tugs will include a switch to all Lithium batteries. It got me to wondering, has anyone ever experienced any fires due to lithium batteries? Thanks.
 
Lithium is a horrible description of batteries as it's ambiguous. There's a big difference between a Lithium Ion battery (like in your phone) and a Lithium Iron battery, aka LiFePO4. I'm leery of a scuba tank in the trunk of a car that's on fire, but not as worried about a scuba mask, even though both have the word scuba.

As humans we stink at assessing risk. Here is Massachusetts I had someone worried about getting eaten by a shark when he went out on my boat, even though not a single person in Massachusetts has been eaten by a great white in my lifetime. But he thought nothing of driving to the marina in his car, even though there's a higher risk of dying in a car crash.

I've only seen 2 boat fires in my life, and neither had anything to do with lithium batteries. Hope this helps.
 
I understand that the new line up of Ranger Tugs will include a switch to all Lithium batteries. It got me to wondering, has anyone ever experienced any fires due to lithium batteries? Thanks.

There are many different types of lithium. Lithium Magnesium, Lithium Cobalt, and others...

On boats, LiFePo4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate, also abbreviated as LFP) is the most acceptable type. Primarily because of its high safety rating and stability. Why aren't all lithium batteries made of LiFePo4 then? Space. LiFePo4 is not the smallest, most condense form of a lithium battery. LiFePo4 batteries are physically larger per watt-hour stored than most other types. It's something like, 30% larger than other types of batteries (such as what our phones and tablets use). Fluid Motion only uses LiFePo4 (LFP) batteries in their lithium installations.

I am not aware of any LiFePo4 fires onboard a Fluid Motion boat (or any other boat, for that matter).
The ABYC E13 "Lithium ION Batteries" section documents standards to use for boat builders to maintain safe installation and operation. It's been published since July 22. (I have a copy of if anyone wants to read it. It's 13 pages long).

I converted Channel Surfing to LiFePo4, and love it. The conversion is challenging as I had to literally re-wire a lot of the boat. Better to purchase the boat new with LFP than convert one.
 
On my boat I replaced three AGM batteries with one LIFEPO4. It doubled the available capacity and the single LIFEPO4 battery was 6 pounds lighter than a one of the AGMs.
If they are installed correctly they are as safe as anything that contains energy, like any battery, propane, or gasoline.
 
I'm not doubting that everything is marine grade and safe, just wondering if anyone ever experienced a fire on board because of a lithium battery. I've seen reports. Thanks.
 
Like other have said, it's not the batteries that are more unsafe, you just want to make sure it's installed correctly. Major things are proper fusing (ABYC updated their AIC requirements), mixing battery chemistries, and connection things like how to connect to chargers and alternators.
 
I'm not doubting that everything is marine grade and safe, just wondering if anyone ever experienced a fire on board because of a lithium battery. I've seen reports. Thanks.
The fires I've read about often end up as bad wiring and fusing. But that's to for lead acid too.
 
To the OP: you should feel very confident in getting a new boat with LIFEPO4 batteries. I don't think I would ever consider buying a new boat if it didn't come with it.
 
Like others have said LiFePO4 is very safe fire wise, you can stick a screw driver through and it will not explode. Don't try that with LiIon. (Don't try that with any battery but you can find videos of tests).

That said, I think Ranger Tugs will keep some batteries AGM, because for the internal combustion engine you need to have a battery that is always connected, with LiFePo4 and other LI batteries BMS can disconnect the battery leaving your engine pushing current while not connected to battery spiking it and destroying alot of stuff.. There are ways to work around that but it's cheaper to use AGM for engine..
 
Just make sure you get the ones that have IP67 protection rating. They are protected if submerged up to 1m.
 
I would be very concerned about a gasoline inboard. Very happy with LIFEPO4 and an outboard!!!. It makes boating fun. Fortunately no worries about a gas inboard with a Fluid Motion Boat.
 
On my boat I replaced three AGM batteries with one LIFEPO4. It doubled the available capacity and the single LIFEPO4 battery was 6 pounds lighter than a one of the AGMs.
If they are installed correctly they are as safe as anything that contains energy, like any battery, propane, or gasoline.

Wouldn't you / didn't you need to have to change all the battery chargers to do this? My understanding is that you can't swap chemistry w/o having other knock on changes.
 
There are many different ways to do the change over to LIFEPO4 batteries. I just went with the simplest system I could think of, and the way I did it might not work for everyone.
I combined the house and thruster/windless into one 300ah battery with 200 amp continuous/800 amp surge rating. I removed the 2 combiners and replaced them with a dc to dc charger. Removed the stock charger (even though it supported LIFEPO4 charging, it was old technology so I wanted something newer), and replaced it with one LIFEPO4 charger and one trickle charger for the existing starter battery. On a side note I have removed any parasitic loads from the starter battery, so it basically never needs to be charged anymore. And finally I installed a new solar charge controller with 500 watts of solar.
I also installed a bus bar so that only one red and one black wire run to the new battery. So if I need to replace my LIFEPO4 it will take about 5 minutes.
The system has been working amazing. So good infact that I am able to make hot water through the inverter if the weather is sunny.
There are limitations to this setup though.
 
As humans we stink at assessing risk...
That's understandable. People would have to know what risk actually is(i.e. probability x consequence) before they could assess it. As a society(in the USA) we use the term "risk" to describe potential consequences. We completely ignore the other half of the risk equation which is probability. Then again we do the same thing with the lottery/gambling, i.e. ignore the probability and focus on the potential reward.
 
...I combined the house and thruster/windless into one 300ah battery with 200 amp continuous/800 amp surge rating. I removed the 2 combiners and replaced them with a dc to dc charger. Removed the stock charger and replaced it with one LIFEPO4 charger and one trickle charger for the existing starter battery....
There are limitations to this setup though.
Forgot about this thread and just found it with a search. This is exactly what I had in mind to do i.e. eliminate the dedicated thruster battery and use a single LiFePo4 bank for everything other than starting. I've already got my start battery isolated from any/everything else. I don't have solar. What are some of limitations that you mentioned above?
 
Forgot about this thread and just found it with a search. This is exactly what I had in mind to do i.e. eliminate the dedicated thruster battery and use a single LiFePo4 bank for everything other than starting. I've already got my start battery isolated from any/everything else. I don't have solar. What are some of limitations that you mentioned above?

I converted my boat over to LFP from AGM. I do not recommend eliminating the thruster battery. I kept mine AGM and my starter battery as AGM. The house bank went to LFP. Lithionics and Ocean Planet Energy, who had to review and approve my design, both wouldn't agree to merging my thruster into the house loads.

My complete conversion is documented and published publicly.

The best video (I have several) is this one:
 
Did they give you a reason?

Thrusters and engine starting operate in pretty much the same way. They require a short burst of a lot of amps. LFP isn't designed for that. LFP can give up and accept larger current for recharging and discharging, but that's numbers like 100amps, 250 amps. Much larger than FLA and AGM can do. The Yamaha F300 requires 680 amps to start. Thrusters vary on size and such. Ours is small, but still fits the category. The windless is wired off the house bank and runs on LFP as the largest 12volt load on my boat (as far as wattage goes).

In my painful battery journey (I sulfated my house bank 90 days after taking delivery of my boat), using AGM, before I converted to LFP... I did join my thruster bank with the house bank. When I'd hit the bow thruster my cabin lights would dim from voltage drop. This is the reason they have their own battery bank.

When shopping for LFP, one of the key differentiators in LFP battery cost is how the top of the battery is made (the internal bus that connects all the cells together). What's it rated for, in amp draw. The less expensive batteries are usually 100amps, max. The Lithionics battery I have is rated to 150 amps continuous draw (from full to empty). 230amps as the max discharge current. I can pulse to 1200 amps for 1 second (think emergency engine jump-starting). But these numbers are specific to the Lithionics 320amp-hour GTX12V320A-E2107 battery.

LFP usually has minimal voltage drop, but it still does have voltage drop when hit with large loads. I use Sensar Marine for remote boat monitoring. It keeps track of house and engine voltage. I had to ask them for a software change which they implemented in short order for me. Whenever voltage drops below 12.6, they would send an alert to my phone since LFP usually is well above 12.6 volts. A weekend on the boat, and I got 11 alerts letting me know coffee was being made, my lunch was in the microwave, or dinner was in the microwave. It's common for me to see 12.2 volts from voltage drop running 1000-1500 watt appliances off the inverter which end up drawing about 140 amps at 12 volt DC off the house LFP battery bank. Imagine what the thruster(s) would do.

This is why neither Lithionics or Ocean Planet Energy would approve a design with the thruster load moved to the house bank. Thruster and Engine banks remain AGM on the boat. I put a DC to DC charge (engine to house and engine to thruster). I didn't need a DC to DC charger for engine to thruster, but I installed one so I have one on the boat to use as a spare should my house dc to dc charger ever fail.

Here's an illustration. In this photo we're making coffee, which is about 1500 watts ran off the inverter. Once coffee is made, voltage will pop up to about 13.3volts.
When we run high loads like this and am down around 30-40% SOC, I've hit 11.8 volts and had the inverter beep warning of low-voltage. 11.5 volts is when the inverter would shut off due to low voltage. I've never hit 11.5 volts, and I've ran my battery down to 20% SOC many times.

IMG_6544.PNG


43% SOC, 11.9 volts, 150 amp draw.
IMG_5009.PNG
 
Thrusters and engine starting operate in pretty much the same way. They require a short burst of a lot of amps. LFP isn't designed for that. LFP can give up and accept larger current for recharging and discharging, but that's numbers like 100amps, 250 amps. Much larger than FLA and AGM can do. The Yamaha F300 requires 680 amps to start. Thrusters vary on size and such. Ours is small, but still fits the category. The windless is wired off the house bank and runs on LFP as the largest 12volt load on my boat (as far as wattage goes).

In my painful battery journey (I sulfated my house bank 90 days after taking delivery of my boat), using AGM, before I converted to LFP... I did join my thruster bank with the house bank. When I'd hit the bow thruster my cabin lights would dim from voltage drop. This is the reason they have their own battery bank.

When shopping for LFP, one of the key differentiators in LFP battery cost is how the top of the battery is made (the internal bus that connects all the cells together). What's it rated for, in amp draw. The less expensive batteries are usually 100amps, max. The Lithionics battery I have is rated to 150 amps continuous draw (from full to empty). 230amps as the max discharge current. I can pulse to 1200 amps for 1 second (think emergency engine jump-starting). But these numbers are specific to the Lithionics 320amp-hour GTX12V320A-E2107 battery.

LFP usually has minimal voltage drop, but it still does have voltage drop when hit with large loads. I use Sensar Marine for remote boat monitoring. It keeps track of house and engine voltage. I had to ask them for a software change which they implemented in short order for me. Whenever voltage drops below 12.6, they would send an alert to my phone since LFP usually is well above 12.6 volts. A weekend on the boat, and I got 11 alerts letting me know coffee was being made, my lunch was in the microwave, or dinner was in the microwave. It's common for me to see 12.2 volts from voltage drop running 1000-1500 watt appliances off the inverter which end up drawing about 140 amps at 12 volt DC off the house LFP battery bank. Imagine what the thruster(s) would do.

This is why neither Lithionics or Ocean Planet Energy would approve a design with the thruster load moved to the house bank. Thruster and Engine banks remain AGM on the boat. I put a DC to DC charge (engine to house and engine to thruster). I didn't need a DC to DC charger for engine to thruster, but I installed one so I have one on the boat to use as a spare should my house dc to dc charger ever fail.

Here's an illustration. In this photo we're making coffee, which is about 1500 watts ran off the inverter. Once coffee is made, voltage will pop up to about 13.3volts.
When we run high loads like this and am down around 30-40% SOC, I've hit 11.8 volts and had the inverter beep warning of low-voltage. 11.5 volts is when the inverter would shut off due to low voltage. I've never hit 11.5 volts, and I've ran my battery down to 20% SOC many times.

View attachment 27199

43% SOC, 11.9 volts, 150 amp draw.
View attachment 27200
You could have just said too much load. But the additional information was interesting. Thanks for the details. It's interesting that some of the battery manufacturers don't provide maximum charge and load amperage. Power banks do tend to claim continuous and surge watts. Though that's not clear whether the battery or other components are the limitation.
 
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Well I took the plunge on the LiFePo battery conversion. Decided to go with Epoch Pro 300Ah battery. This battery capable of 300A continuous discharge and 1000A for 5sec. Based on this will be doing away with dedicated thruster battery and powering house and thruster off of this bank. It's not a cheap conversion but will certainly make life easier on the water. We'll also shed over 100lb of weight and will almost triple the effective capacity of the house bank. For those interested as a DIY project we're looking at under $3k all in for the modification. That included the battery, shipping to Alaska, Victron DC/DC charger and battery monitor. Heck nowadays that like one tank of fuel...😕
 
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