r27ob shower sump pump

[Jcat2010]

Hopefully someone on here has already done this......While winterizing I noticed that the shower sump pump is not running. I need to troubleshoot it, but assuming it's time to replace the pump, anybody got an easy method ? It feels like its the "squeeze tab" Type of sump pump, where you squeeze the tabs and remove the pump from the strainer, etc. Except, in my case, some numnutz mounted the pump so that the tabs are inaccessible - at least my fingers can't fit between the sump walls at the pump. Anybody got a trick that saves me having to remove the entire sump and likely break something in the process in order to replace the pump ?

 

[Submariner]

The float switch has probably failed. I replaced mine at the beginning of this season. I replaced one on another boat (R27-OB) in the middle of this years boating season. They're about $60, and are easy to replace. The bilge pump was fine in both cases. I note, replacing the actual bilge pump in there I suspect will suck one day. But the float switch replacement is easy.

 

[Jcat2010]

I didn't have time to troubleshoot today; the float switch clicks, but will have to complete troubleshooting next trip.

 

[Eagle 2]

CB 30, But I just took my sump out,and replaced the float switch, as Martin suggested, and a "While your in there" job, also changed out the pump, cleaned it up, including the wiring, and put it back in. Easy job.

 

[Submariner]

CB 30, But I just took my sump out,and replaced the float switch, as Martin suggested, and a "While your in there" job, also changed out the pump, cleaned it up, including the wiring, and put it back in. Easy job.

Replacing the actual bilge pump on the R27 in the sump isn't as easy as replacing the float switch. The way the sump is installed and attached to the discharge hose, it'd be a lot more work to replace the pump. Odds are, it's just the float switch that's failed and the bilge pump is fine.

 

[Jcat2010]

Luckily, this was discovered during winterizing, so there's no urgency to resolve. If it had happened during the mid-summer, when AC condensate drain was running steady, it would have been a mess. Though not as much of a mess as during a shower. I agree with Martin, it's going to be a bear to get fixed if its not the float switch. Maybe I'll get lucky. Either way, I'll report back once I solve the issue.

 

[Submariner]

Luckily, this was discovered during winterizing, so there's no urgency to resolve. If it had happened during the mid-summer, when AC condensate drain was running steady, it would have been a mess. Though not as much of a mess as during a shower. I agree with Martin, it's going to be a bear to get fixed if its not the float switch. Maybe I'll get lucky. Either way, I'll report back once I solve the issue.

I discovered mine failed last winter, when winterizing the boat. I poured RV antifreeze on the floor of the head, waiting to hear the sump switch itself on. This usually takes a little more than a gallon. Approaching 2 gallons, it never turned on. Ugh. I had pink antifreeze with nasty water in the bow bilge to clean up. Sorry, no YouTube video of this.

 

[Eagle 2]

Replacing the actual bilge pump on the R27 in the sump isn't as easy as replacing the float switch. The way the sump is installed and attached to the discharge hose, it'd be a lot more work to replace the pump. Odds are, it's just the float switch that's failed and the bilge pump is fine.

Maybe the Ranger Tug config is different, but the Cutwater was an easy switch out for both the float switch and the pump.

 

[Submariner]

Maybe the Ranger Tug config is different, but the Cutwater was an easy switch out for both the float switch and the pump.

That'd be nice if our hose fitting connections were easy to get to. The float's easy, the hose connections to the bilge pump, not so much. I took this photo of another R27 that I fixed their float switch on. (2020 R27-OB).

 

[Eagle 2]

That'd be nice if our hose fitting connections were easy to get to. The float's easy, the hose connections to the bilge pump, not so much. I took this photo of another R27 that I fixed their float switch on. (2020 R27-OB).

View attachment 26591

Easy is a relative term in smaller boats! Maybe I should measure the degree of difficulty in the number of swear words used on each project! 🙂

 

[Submariner]

Easy is a relative term in smaller boats! Maybe I should measure the degree of difficulty in the number of swear words used on each project! 🙂

Well, the factory did manage to install it, so there is that... which means it can be worked on, colorful language and all. 🙂

 

[Jcat2010]

So, the good news is it WAS the float switch. Took a while before I figured out it is a snap fit, by squeezing the tabs it pops right out. The bad news is, I got curious about how one would get the pump out if it failed. Per the Rule website, the pump is a 20da, which normally has a screw on hose fitting. Apparently the fitting get tossed and the O-ring gets pushed into a hole in the box. But mine seems to have "welded" itself to the box. Maybe if I really worked at it it would pull out, but didn't want to open that can of worms until/unless the pump dies. You can get the whole box out, but not easily. There are three ports on the 2020 R27 LE - one for AC condensate, one for the shower drain and one for the pump outlet. The hoses are mounted tight to the sump housing, no real slack. The hoses are clamped to barbed fittings that screw onto the sump case (o-ring seals) There's some green "adhesive/sealer" between the hose and the fitting that makes it pretty difficult to get the hose off the fitting. If you get a pair of channel locks onto the condensate hose and the hose fitting, you can twist and break the fitting loose from the hose, hold the hose and unscrew the fitting. Same goes for the pump output. The sump likely has to be "unscrewed" from the fitting for the shower drain, as the fitting isn't something you can get a channel lock on, like the others.

 

[Eagle 2]

Use a heat gun to heat up the hoses and they should slide off and on “relatively easy” Worked for me on my CB 30

 

[Jcat2010]

Confirmed that the pump is removable from the box. It' a friction fit at the discharge and base. It's very difficult to determine because of the tight space. According to Rule, place you hand on the top of the pump and push it forward in the direction of the discharge port. The pump is a friction fit so it should snap out of place.

To install the pump, hold the pump on the top and insert the discharge port. Push down on the pump and it should snap into place.