2017 Cutwater C-28 D4 engine removal

[ShaneH]

Pulling D4 out of 2017 C-28 to repair oil leak. What other items should I deal with while the engine is out of the boat? 745 hours on the engine.

 

[BB marine]

Engine out of the boat at 745 hours. I'm making this list based on knowing nothing about your past maintenance of the boat or engine.

*Engine removed it will be easy to pull coupling and install new packing in the gland.
*Remove the exchangers heat, oil and after cooler take apart clean and reseal. The coolers are a weak link for corrosion where o-rings are located.
*Replace belt. and inspect idler pulley. This is a pain in the ass to do while the engine is installed the clearance in the front of the engine to forward bulkhead is tight. easy to do with engine out of boat.
*Clean bilge and inspect all motor mount lag bolt holes to confirm the wood in the engine bed is in good condition. Fluid motion still uses wood in the engine bed for motor mount fastening. It is known to rot. If you find that the wood is in poor condition seal holes with epoxy and oak wood bowls and re-drill.
*It is a good time to clean all the limber holes to confirm all are draining properly. No engine easy access.
* Confirm a good proper alignment of the engine reverse gear to shaft coupling.
*oil change reverse gear change and anti freeze flush of freshwater cooling

 

[JonR]

Pulling D4 out of 2017 C-28 to repair oil leak. What other items should I deal with while the engine is out of the boat? 745 hours on the engine.

Suggest you replace your bilge pumps. They are cheap and way easier to replace w/o engine. Replace raw water pump and any hoses that aren't perfect. I'd even suggest replacing the starter. This is also difficult to replace w/ engine installed.

 

[JonR]

Suggest you replace your bilge pumps. They are cheap and way easier to replace w/o engine. Replace raw water pump and any hoses that aren't perfect. I'd even suggest replacing the starter. This is also difficult to replace w/ engine installed.

One more suggestion: Tightening the serpentine belt is also almost impossible at least on my 2014 C28. You have to torque to a certain degree but access is extremely limited. Making an access hatch from interior storage area just forward of engine compartment would be extremely helpful for access as the belt stretches over time.

Curious, what caused the oil leak? I had to do the same as you. My leak was caused by a small 1/2 socket that had gotten wedged between to oil pan and the bilge hull. Just a warning to others that clearance is minimal! Be very careful to recover any tools that are dropped when working on your engine....

 

[marob]

One more suggestion: Tightening the serpentine belt is also almost impossible at least on my 2014 C28. You have to torque to a certain degree but access is extremely limited. Making an access hatch from interior storage area just forward of engine compartment would be extremely helpful for access as the belt stretches over time.

Curious, what caused the oil leak? I had to do the same as you. My leak was caused by a small 1/2 socket that had gotten wedged between to oil pan and the bilge hull. Just a warning to others that clearance is minimal! Be very careful to recover any tools that are dropped when working on your engine....

Do you not have a hatch in the galley? Our 2021 C28 does and may have to be a bit of a contortionist but looks doable. Will find out very soon 4 hours shy of 800 hours

 

[ShaneH]

Engine out of the boat at 745 hours. I'm making this list based on knowing nothing about your past maintenance of the boat or engine.

*Engine removed it will be easy to pull coupling and install new packing in the gland.
*Remove the exchangers heat, oil and after cooler take apart clean and reseal. The coolers are a weak link for corrosion where o-rings are located.
*Replace belt. and inspect idler pulley. This is a pain in the ass to do while the engine is installed the clearance in the front of the engine to forward bulkhead is tight. easy to do with engine out of boat.
*Clean bilge and inspect all motor mount lag bolt holes to confirm the wood in the engine bed is in good condition. Fluid motion still uses wood in the engine bed for motor mount fastening. It is known to rot. If you find that the wood is in poor condition seal holes with epoxy and oak wood bowls and re-drill.
*It is a good time to clean all the limber holes to confirm all are draining properly. No engine easy access.
* Confirm a good proper alignment of the engine reverse gear to shaft coupling.
*oil change reverse gear change and anti freeze flush of freshwater cooling

Thanks for your detail reply Brian, much appreciated.
I will definitely look at items. I have not thought about the motor like bolt holes. My motor mounts are quite rusty and I was wondering if they should be replaced as well? The shop that is pulling the motor informed me that it is up to a 14 day turnaround time on servicing heat exchanger as they out source to another shop that cleans and pressure tests which obviously adds a lot of days that it is on the hard. But the exchangers have never been serviced so probably a good idea.

 

[ShaneH]

Suggest you replace your bilge pumps. They are cheap and way easier to replace w/o engine. Replace raw water pump and any hoses that aren't perfect. I'd even suggest replacing the starter. This is also difficult to replace w/ engine installed.

Bilge pumps were replaced last year and yes, I agree it would’ve been much easier with the engine out. That is why I am reaching out for this type of advice. Pretty much thinking any part that can be replaced with engine out for less than the labor to do it with engine in should be considered.
Thanks

 

[ShaneH]

One more suggestion: Tightening the serpentine belt is also almost impossible at least on my 2014 C28. You have to torque to a certain degree but access is extremely limited. Making an access hatch from interior storage area just forward of engine compartment would be extremely helpful for access as the belt stretches over time.

Curious, what caused the oil leak? I had to do the same as you. My leak was caused by a small 1/2 socket that had gotten wedged between to oil pan and the bilge hull. Just a warning to others that clearance is minimal! Be very careful to recover any tools that are dropped when working on your engine....

Agreed, belt and idler pulley will be checked.
The leak if coming from the pipe retainer on the starboard side of the oil pan and is fastened from inside the oil pan. engine must be pulled and oil pan removed to reinstall and seal this part. It was very difficult to locate this leak but a Volvo tech finally found it using a borescope and took a picture. I am loosing almost half liter of oil per 1 hr runtime.