Broken transmission cable 2010 R25 SC

Gonad

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Joined
Jul 1, 2025
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14
Fluid Motion Model
R-25 SC
I'm hoping for some advice on the cable running from the throttle to the transmission the forward reverse cable (im sure it has a name but elodes me at the moment). The cable broke today and I need to replace it. I have looked at the run of the cable and considered just burning the boat.
I think the cable length is 19ft and I'm just going to run the new one in leaving the old cable case in place.Any advice would be great apart from burn the boat.
 
Pull the fridge & maybe the v-berth headboard on the starboard side.

LOL: "...considered just burning the boat."
 
Pull the fridge & maybe the v-berth headboard on the starboard side.

LOL: "...considered just burning the boat."
Yes I think the fridge is coming out.
The marina are against me burning the boat, but fully understand my reasoning
 
It's actually not that bad of a job. If you pull the carpet covered panel in the veeberth in front of the helm. That will give you pretty good visibility from that end. Pulling the fridge is way more trouble than it's worth IMO. You can get a long piece of 1/2 or 3/4 in PVC pipe and fish it forward through the starboard lazarette hatch. Then fish the cable in through through the PVC. Having a helper will save a lot of time. If your boat it like mine then leaving the old cable in is a given as it is bundled with electrical cables and bound up with zip ties.
 
It's actually not that bad of a job. If you pull the carpet covered panel in the veeberth in front of the helm. That will give you pretty good visibility from that end. Pulling the fridge is way more trouble than it's worth IMO. You can get a long piece of 1/2 or 3/4 in PVC pipe and fish it forward through the starboard lazarette hatch. Then fish the cable in through through the PVC. Having a helper will save a lot of time. If your boat it like mine then leaving the old cable in is a given as it is bundled with electrical cables and bound up with zip ties.
Never thought of going in from the v berth thanks.
To those that might be interested the cable is Ultraflex C8 FT19 429 this info can be found 24 inches from the cable end, 19ft long with 10-32 UNF threads both ends. I have ordered a SeaStar Teleflex Xtreme 3300 control cable. I will post on the repair later.
 
I just did this a few weeks ago on mine. It was much easier than expected. No need to pull the fridge out, no need to go through the v-berth.
I just disconnected at the engine end, attached the new cable to the old cable after lifting the shifter mechanism up and removing the cable from the shifter end. Use electrical tape, and I used a paper towel to help make a taper at the front of the connection where the two cables are taped together. 19 foot cable is what I used. Grease on the taped connection. Then slowly pull from the engine compartment while one person is feeding through the shift lever opening. (Be sure to remove all AC power as you're running the cable past your AC electrical panel).
My pull went really smoothly, took about 2-3 minutes, no hang ups. I did NOT leave the old cable in place, the only zip ties were in the engine compartment and easy to remove. The old cable was used to pull the new cable through. Attach cable at transmission lever end. Re attach cable at throttle end. Adjust accordingly for smooth shift. One hour job for two people.
My cable had originally been run UNDER the engine exhaust, then it had to go up and make another 180 degree turn back down to the lever, that's why it broke at the transmission lever on the engine. This time I ran over the exhaust and then down to the lever.
Good luck, not as hard as I was expecting considering where the cable went and the bends around the water heater and back into the engine compartment.
Edit: I used the exact same SeaStar Xtreme 3300 19 ft cable.
 
Last edited:
I just did this a few weeks ago on mine. It was much easier than expected. No need to pull the fridge out, no need to go through the v-berth.
I just disconnected at the engine end, attached the new cable to the old cable after lifting the shifter mechanism up and removing the cable from the shifter end. Use electrical tape, and I used a paper towel to help make a taper at the front of the connection where the two cables are taped together. 19 foot cable is what I used. Grease on the taped connection. Then slowly pull from the engine compartment while one person is feeding through the shift lever opening. (Be sure to remove all AC power as you're running the cable past your AC electrical panel).
My pull went really smoothly, took about 2-3 minutes, no hang ups. I did NOT leave the old cable in place, the only zip ties were in the engine compartment and easy to remove. The old cable was used to pull the new cable through. Attach cable at transmission lever end. Re attach cable at throttle end. Adjust accordingly for smooth shift. One hour job for two people.
My cable had originally been run UNDER the engine exhaust, then it had to go up and make another 180 degree turn back down to the lever, that's why it broke at the transmission lever on the engine. This time I ran over the exhaust and then down to the lever.
Good luck, not as hard as I was expecting considering where the cable went and the bends around the water heater and back into the engine compartment.
Edit: I used the exact same SeaStar Xtreme 3300 19 ft cable.
Thanks for the info.
I removed the V berth cover this morning 4 screws so no problem. Glad did just to see what I can get to in the future.
I'll try your suggestion first.
 
I just did this a few weeks ago on mine. It was much easier than expected. No need to pull the fridge out, no need to go through the v-berth.
I just disconnected at the engine end, attached the new cable to the old cable after lifting the shifter mechanism up and removing the cable from the shifter end. Use electrical tape, and I used a paper towel to help make a taper at the front of the connection where the two cables are taped together. 19 foot cable is what I used. Grease on the taped connection. Then slowly pull from the engine compartment while one person is feeding through the shift lever opening. (Be sure to remove all AC power as you're running the cable past your AC electrical panel).
My pull went really smoothly, took about 2-3 minutes, no hang ups. I did NOT leave the old cable in place, the only zip ties were in the engine compartment and easy to remove. The old cable was used to pull the new cable through. Attach cable at transmission lever end. Re attach cable at throttle end. Adjust accordingly for smooth shift. One hour job for two people.
My cable had originally been run UNDER the engine exhaust, then it had to go up and make another 180 degree turn back down to the lever, that's why it broke at the transmission lever on the engine. This time I ran over the exhaust and then down to the lever.
Good luck, not as hard as I was expecting considering where the cable went and the bends around the water heater and back into the engine compartment.
Edit: I used the exact same SeaStar Xtreme 3300 19 ft cable.
If the cable is free this is certainly the way to go.
 
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