Winterizing potable water system R27.

Duane&Monte

Active member
Joined
Oct 1, 2025
Messages
31
Location
Mid continent America, Omaha, NE
Fluid Motion Model
R-27 Classic
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2711G516
Vessel Name
Beyond
MMSI Number
?
Hey, Everyone.
Monday, beautiful day in eastern Nebraska. First end-o-season winterizing of the systems on my 2016 R27 classic. Watched As the Prop Turns several times. On potable water, fresh water tank was emptied. Disconnecting PEX connection (above my skill level ??) was not successful. Instead, first I drained the hot water tank. Then, opened head and galley faucets. Then connected gentle air pressure to the drain hose. Continued air pressure until both faucets blew waterless air. I am thinking the system is empty of any water. We tow to enclosed barn on Saturday. Should I be concerned about water in a low area? Thanks for any criticism or help.
 
I have never trusted the blow out only method and prefer to follow it with pink RV antifreeze (the slightly more expensive stuff without alcohol in it). Menards has Splash brand -75 degree Propylene Glycol for $5.99 a gallon (before the 11% rebate). We never drink the water from our freshwater tanks and never have had a problem with boats or RVs running the non-toxic antifreeze through all the systems. Been doing it that way for decades. Others might chime in that rely only on blowing out the lines but I like the peace of mind going both routes. When I do the boat, I make sure the wet shop vacuum and paper towels get the shower sump completely dry or it mildews. I also shop vac the bilge and from outside the boat all the through hulls (keeps them from dripping all over the garage floor and makes sure there is no water in the bilge hose aft the backflow valve). There is a drain plug on the muffler that you can also pull to drain it in the event there is water in there diluting the antifreeze that you run through the engine.
I just did the motorhome yesterday. It has a bypass on the water heater which is easy to isolate and drain, so it took less than two and half gallons to do three sinks, the toilet, the inside shower and the outside shower, including the drain traps on the three sinks and the inside shower.
 
I have a 2017 R29 Sedan and have always used the air blowout method to winterize the system. Early on, I was concerned about not getting all the water out and was told that the objective is to get out as much as possible. This would avoid the issue of a water line full of water that would freeze and expand resulting in a burst line. I am diligent in my efforts and have not had a problem to date.

Mike
 
Monte,
I too have a 2016 R-27 which I have winterized and stored in Soldotna, AK since 2018. I have used the air blow method successfully. From your description, it sounds like you blew clear your hot water side of the system by connecting the air to the hot water drain hose/valve???? I think this would leave the cold water side from the fresh water pump discharge to faucets still filled with H2O. I'd be happy to discuss the process I have used for all the systems and I have a good checklist to help me get all the systems protected for the cold. Send me your contact details at allanrs74@gmail.com.

Regards,
Bob
 
We own a 2024 R27OB, and have used the “air blow out” method, as presented in the company video, for the past 3 years. We have enjoyed good results. BTW, we used that method for our prior sailboats, as well: we live in New England.

We only put “pink” in the shower sump, bilge pumps, wash down pump, and A/C. Our head was converted to fresh water and the supply line gets blown out. We do put “pink” in the holding tank after a good flushing and pump out.

We store the boat outside in the boatyard from October - May with shrink wrap. We have enjoyed good results, and the process takes 2 - 3 hours of leisurely effort.

The company’s video was very helpful.
 
OMG! You all are great. Thank you!! Super comfort in hearing experienced voices. Thank you again. I'm doing the two hour trip to the lake today with shop vac (good idea), a jug of pink for the shower sump although not used once this season and will attention the cold water side of the potable system. In a few weeks, hope to share some 'comfort' upgrades I have made.
 
I have never trusted the blow out only method and prefer to follow it with pink RV antifreeze (the slightly more expensive stuff without alcohol in it). Menards has Splash brand -75 degree Propylene Glycol for $5.99 a gallon (before the 11% rebate). We never drink the water from our freshwater tanks and never have had a problem with boats or RVs running the non-toxic antifreeze through all the systems. Been doing it that way for decades. Others might chime in that rely only on blowing out the lines but I like the peace of mind going both routes. When I do the boat, I make sure the wet shop vacuum and paper towels get the shower sump completely dry or it mildews. I also shop vac the bilge and from outside the boat all the through hulls (keeps them from dripping all over the garage floor and makes sure there is no water in the bilge hose aft the backflow valve). There is a drain plug on the muffler that you can also pull to drain it in the event there is water in there diluting the antifreeze that you run through the engine.
I just did the motorhome yesterday. It has a bypass on the water heater which is easy to isolate and drain, so it took less than two and half gallons to do three sinks, the toilet, the inside shower and the outside shower, including the drain traps on the three sinks and the inside shower.
Todd, Thanks for the detail. I use Menard's too. With Ranger and trailer, you have double end of season tasks.
 
6 winter seasons, every one of them has spent at least 10 days out of the water in sub-freezing temps (10-30 degrees). I have never put RV antifreeze in my freshwater tank, nor have I ever blown my lines down with compressed air.

The R27 is super easy to winterize. I pump the tank dry, then disconnect the water heater hot and cold connections and let drain to the bilge. Be sure to open all sinks and shower valves to let air into the system as it drains. Be sure to hold the transom shower head, with it open, way above your head so it also drains.

Once drained, then re-connect the hot and cold connections to the water heater. The freshwater system is made of PEX piping which can withstand freezing temps with some water in it.

I pour a gallon of RV antifreeze on the floor of the head (for the shower sump) until I hear the pump kick on and discharge overboard.
I pour 3 gallons of RV antifreeze down the toilet into an empty and thoroughly rinsed black water tank.



 
Hello, new owner of a 2018 R27 OB here. Just acquired late fall so we had the dealer winterize but appreciate all the insight on this task for next year. Wondering what most do with the macerator pump? I think I have seen something about running some pink out of the holding tank and catching it at the thru hull. Thank you
 
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