12V DC switch panel brakers

hello every one I know the 2021 R25 doesn't come with 12v braker to turn down 12v supplies independently, how ever, is there any way around this I don't fell comfortable with leaving the house switch on " all the time " leaving all the accessories on. Problem is if turn the house off the refrigerator ( only 12v) will turn off and we have some stuff there since we have the boat in the water.
If any one have any idea on how bypass the refrigerator only , please advise. ..for windlass there is a braker in the bath switch panel nothing else that I am aware!!!
The AC panel have options, unfortunately the DC doesn't.
Thank you

Also is there a way to replace the factory refrigerator (only 12v ) for a dual AC /DC one? same size!! I find very annoying to be forced to leave the house panel "on" just because the 12v DC only fridge when I am connected to short power!! Please advise
Thank you

Install a fuse block tapped off the battery to feed the refrigerator.

Brian John said:

Install a fuse block tapped off the battery to feed the refrigerator.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5025-Blade/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=asc_df_B000THQ0CQ?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80401905935511&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=91462&hvtargid=pla-4584001431609574&th=1

Click to expand...

Sorry my ignorance but can you elaborate little bit more..
Thank you..that will leave only the fridge running?. I think I got it ..I am going to install the fuse panel just for the refrigerator and aft and forward bilge pumps...separate from the rest of the house battery bank taking the hot line before getting in the house switch. Correct me if I wrong !!!

You are correct, and this part gets a bit technical but depending on the size of your batteries the available fault current my exceed the AIC rating of the fuse blocks I gave the link to. You may need to use a battery terminal fuse, then take a conductor to your fuse block.

Two links that give some fusing recommendations.

Thank you I have those batteries fuses installed already!! I should be good to go!!

Another option if you wish to truly modify the fridge to operate on any available source, 12v DC or 120v AC...

Purchase a ~150w LED driver (most of these on Amazon or other sources are under $30 and some are IP65 rated which would be recommended for the marine environment). This driver gets connected to the 120v AC system other directly to a panel breaker, or to an existing outlet onboard and converts the AC to DC in order to power the fridge.

Then you can install a Victron BCD 402 battery combining diode (also roughly $30) between the positive from the battery and the positive output from the LED driver with the output post going to the fridge positive input. This device keeps power from the driver going back into the boats DC systems, and allows the fridge to draw power from either source or both when available.