12V DC switch panel brakers

Petercoach

Member
Joined
Sep 15, 2025
Messages
23
Fluid Motion Model
R-25 (Outboard)
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2528K021
Vessel Name
Ranger
MMSI Number
338399892
hello every one I know the 2021 R25 doesn't come with 12v braker to turn down 12v supplies independently, how ever, is there any way around this I don't fell comfortable with leaving the house switch on " all the time " leaving all the accessories on. Problem is if turn the house off the refrigerator ( only 12v) will turn off and we have some stuff there since we have the boat in the water.
If any one have any idea on how bypass the refrigerator only , please advise. ..for windlass there is a braker in the bath switch panel nothing else that I am aware!!!
The AC panel have options, unfortunately the DC doesn't.
Thank you
 
Also is there a way to replace the factory refrigerator (only 12v ) for a dual AC /DC one? same size!! I find very annoying to be forced to leave the house panel "on" just because the 12v DC only fridge when I am connected to short power!! Please advise
Thank you
 
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Sorry my ignorance but can you elaborate little bit more..
Thank you..that will leave only the fridge running?. I think I got it ..I am going to install the fuse panel just for the refrigerator and aft and forward bilge pumps...separate from the rest of the house battery bank taking the hot line before getting in the house switch. Correct me if I wrong !!!
 
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You are correct, and this part gets a bit technical but depending on the size of your batteries the available fault current my exceed the AIC rating of the fuse blocks I gave the link to. You may need to use a battery terminal fuse, then take a conductor to your fuse block.

Two links that give some fusing recommendations.


 
Thank you I have those batteries fuses installed already!! I should be good to go!!
 
Another option if you wish to truly modify the fridge to operate on any available source, 12v DC or 120v AC...

Purchase a ~150w LED driver (most of these on Amazon or other sources are under $30 and some are IP65 rated which would be recommended for the marine environment). This driver gets connected to the 120v AC system other directly to a panel breaker, or to an existing outlet onboard and converts the AC to DC in order to power the fridge.

Then you can install a Victron BCD 402 battery combining diode (also roughly $30) between the positive from the battery and the positive output from the LED driver with the output post going to the fridge positive input. This device keeps power from the driver going back into the boats DC systems, and allows the fridge to draw power from either source or both when available.
 
Another option if you wish to truly modify the fridge to operate on any available source, 12v DC or 120v AC...

Purchase a ~150w LED driver (most of these on Amazon or other sources are under $30 and some are IP65 rated which would be recommended for the marine environment). This driver gets connected to the 120v AC system other directly to a panel breaker, or to an existing outlet onboard and converts the AC to DC in order to power the fridge.

Then you can install a Victron BCD 402 battery combining diode (also roughly $30) between the positive from the battery and the positive output from the LED driver with the output post going to the fridge positive input. This device keeps power from the driver going back into the boats DC systems, and allows the fridge to draw power from either source or both when available.
Hummmm interesting choice, I am going to definitely look out on this..is a totally new thing for me to do but I believe will be worthy ..do you have it that way? "Victron BCD 402 battery combining diode" this got me confuse. Sorry my ignorance!!!
 
Yes, I have mine configured this way and it works wonderfully; however, I almost never connect to shore power so it's main usefulness for me is maximizing charge rate during the rare instances when the generator is running. The other benefit is the few times I'm connected to shore I can trip the DC breaker for the fridge and leave the fridge running from AC while the battery switches are off so that if the boat/dock loses power the batteries won't be drawn down.

The BCD 402 is a small device that just lets a single load (DC power consumer) draw power from two different sources while keeping the sources separate from each other.
 
Hummmm interesting choice, I am going to definitely look out on this..is a totally new thing for me to do but I believe will be worthy ..do you have it that way? "Victron BCD 402 battery combining diode
Yes, I have mine configured this way and it works wonderfully; however, I almost never connect to shore power so it's main usefulness for me is maximizing charge rate during the rare instances when the generator is running. The other benefit is the few times I'm connected to shore I can trip the DC breaker for the fridge and leave the fridge running from AC while the battery switches are off so that if the boat/dock loses power the batteries won't be drawn down.

The BCD 402 is a small device that just lets a single load (DC power consumer) draw power from two different sources while keeping the sources separate from each other.
Ok so from battery positive to victron 402 positive input ( it has two so I only need one) / from vicron 402 "out put" to the positive of the fridge together with the positive from the LED 150 W (conversion from AC ) and all negatives together either from led drive and negative battery ? correct me if I am wrong
Good
Yes, I have mine configured this way and it works wonderfully; however, I almost never connect to shore power so it's main usefulness for me is maximizing charge rate during the rare instances when the generator is running. The other benefit is the few times I'm connected to shore I can trip the DC breaker for the fridge and leave the fridge running from AC while the battery switches are off so that if the boat/dock loses power the batteries won't be drawn down.

The BCD 402 is a small device that just lets a single load (DC power consumer) draw power from two different sources while keeping the sources separate from each other.
Ok so from battery positive to victron one of the 402 positive input / from the LED 150 W AC (conversion from AC ) to the other 402 input and from the 402 output to the positive of the refrigerator all negatives together either from led drive and negative battery ? correct me if I am wrong ..so that way the fridge will power on from the AC led conversion and the victron 402 source from battery which ever the fridge detect !! Picture below !!
 

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Yes, your diagram is correct. The only point I would mention is that you don't want/need to go directly from the battery to the 402, just simply use the existing positive that is feeding the fridge. That way it will only run when off the batteries when the house battery switch is turned on.
 
Yes, your diagram is correct. The only point I would mention is that you don't want/need to go directly from the battery to the 402, just simply use the existing positive that is feeding the fridge. That way it will only run when off the batteries when the house battery switch is turned on.
Thank you !!!
 
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