R27 Air Conditioning Fix & Mod

CaspersCruiser

Well-known member
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
947
Fluid Motion Model
R-27 Classic
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2709G112
Vessel Name
Cookie
MMSI Number
368203460
On our recent Tarpon Springs-Ft. Myers Florida cruise, the Dometic CSD16K air conditioning unit on my 2012 R27 quit working. At the end of our trip, instead of taking the boat back to Louisville, we towed it to Scott’s Marine Service in Tarpon Springs. Next door to Scott’s is Cool Breeze Marine Air Conditioning & Refrigeration. I figured Florida was the place to get air conditioning service.

The culprit was burnt start windings in the blower motor. What may have caused the start windings to fail was that the air conditioning control panel was programmed with an incorrect setting for the type of blower motor. The blower motor on my unit is a “Split-Capacitor High-Velocity” motor. The control was set for a “Shaded-Pole” motor. If you have Dometic A/C, you might check that setting using the cabin control panel. The instructions are in the manual for it. The factory default is for Split-Capacitor, but somehow mine wasn’t in that mode.

The blower motor itself is not available. It is part of a $750 assembly. That assembly was replaced. At least now I have the old assembly I can cannibilize for spare parts if needed in the future.

On my boat, the condensing unit and electric control box are located under the port side seat foot rest. The technician needed to get to the control box for tests. It is accessed through the cave and, needless to say, access is tight and difficult. The evaporator and blower are located under a cushion in the cuddy. Access to that is not a problem.

To facilitate this and future service, Scott’s Marine Service suggested cutting an access hatch in the foot rest. I agreed to that and they did a great job cutting a very precise square hole and crafting a stainless trim edge. They also added a stainless pull to remove the hatch when needed.

Using the new access, the A/C technician remote mounted the electric control box. The original installation had it fastened to the top of the condenser unit. With control box moved, the refrigerant charge could be easily checked. Without the hatch, that’s a very, very expensive proposition.

A discovery the technician made during replacement of the blower assembly is that the duct work for the port side air conditioning vent was partially crushed during the construction of my boat. There’s no easy way to correct it. I had wondered why the volume of air from the port vent was less than that provided by the starboard vent.

Here’s the technician working through the cave access to the condenser unit and electric control box. This picture was taken through a custom cutout for a door to the cave located underneath the microwave that the previous owner installed.

A4_D3551_D-450_E-45_C6-94_D9-4_D234_B33_E3_B1.jpg


Here’s what the new hatch looks like:

06_B85422-1_B4_C-4_CF5-8751-_C04_D86452_EC9.jpg


Here’s the access it provides. The red arrow points to the newly remote mounted electric box. The yellow arrows point to attach points on top of the condenser where the box was originally located.

64_E88_F78-_C74_E-4394-8_D00-285_FF5589_E1_B.jpg
 
Sorry you had to go through all that work for access. I have the same model and year and I was able to get easy access by removing the head liner at the port side in the v-berth. Flip the cap open (I think there are four) on each of the screws and then remove the screws and the entire panel comes out.
 
Well, that would have been nice to know. I was not present when the A/C service was being performed. Scott’s Marine took the photo of the technician at work. I’m surprised that Scott’s or Cool Breeze didn’t realize the headliner was removable. Obviously, I didn’t know it. Scott’s has been in the business for 40 years and Cool Breeze for 20 years.
 
I just removed the headliner panel. Yes there is access, but it’s pretty limited as well. At least one doesn’t have to crawl into the cave using the access provided by removing the cuddy panel.

From the cave access, the Cool Breeze technician was able to remove the electric box (it has a long cable) and perform the required tests. It was Scott’s Marine that suggested cutting the hatch to better inspect the entire condenser unit, water hoses and thru hull. They’re right and I’m happy with the hatch.

One side note. Captain Scott has maintained, built and restored boats for decades. There are two restorations in his shop now. After making the hatch and seeing the materials he said, “This thing is built like a tank!”
 
Casper, I'm curious, how thick was the flooring that the hatch was cut into? From the picture it looks like an inch thick of some honeycomb like structure. Thanks, GF
 
You described it perfectly.
 
On our recent Tarpon Springs-Ft. Myers Florida cruise, the Dometic CSD16K air conditioning unit on my 2012 R27 quit working. At the end of our trip, instead of taking the boat back to Louisville, we towed it to Scott’s Marine Service in Tarpon Springs. Next door to Scott’s is Cool Breeze Marine Air Conditioning & Refrigeration. I figured Florida was the place to get air conditioning service.

The culprit was burnt start windings in the blower motor. What may have caused the start windings to fail was that the air conditioning control panel was programmed with an incorrect setting for the type of blower motor. The blower motor on my unit is a “Split-Capacitor High-Velocity” motor. The control was set for a “Shaded-Pole” motor. If you have Dometic A/C, you might check that setting using the cabin control panel. The instructions are in the manual for it. The factory default is for Split-Capacitor, but somehow mine wasn’t in that mode.

The blower motor itself is not available. It is part of a $750 assembly. That assembly was replaced. At least now I have the old assembly I can cannibilize for spare parts if needed in the future.

On my boat, the condensing unit and electric control box are located under the port side seat foot rest. The technician needed to get to the control box for tests. It is accessed through the cave and, needless to say, access is tight and difficult. The evaporator and blower are located under a cushion in the cuddy. Access to that is not a problem.

To facilitate this and future service, Scott’s Marine Service suggested cutting an access hatch in the foot rest. I agreed to that and they did a great job cutting a very precise square hole and crafting a stainless trim edge. They also added a stainless pull to remove the hatch when needed.

Using the new access, the A/C technician remote mounted the electric control box. The original installation had it fastened to the top of the condenser unit. With control box moved, the refrigerant charge could be easily checked. Without the hatch, that’s a very, very expensive proposition.

A discovery the technician made during replacement of the blower assembly is that the duct work for the port side air conditioning vent was partially crushed during the construction of my boat. There’s no easy way to correct it. I had wondered why the volume of air from the port vent was less than that provided by the starboard vent.

Here’s the technician working through the cave access to the condenser unit and electric control box. This picture was taken through a custom cutout for a door to the cave located underneath the microwave that the previous owner installed.

A4_D3551_D-450_E-45_C6-94_D9-4_D234_B33_E3_B1.jpg


Here’s what the new hatch looks like:

06_B85422-1_B4_C-4_CF5-8751-_C04_D86452_EC9.jpg


Here’s the access it provides. The red arrow points to the newly remote mounted electric box. The yellow arrows point to attach points on top of the condenser where the box was originally located.

64_E88_F78-_C74_E-4394-8_D00-285_FF5589_E1_B.jpg
 
Any chance you can repost your pictures ? Cheers

Patrick
 
thank you ! I had my ac tech on a service call today and he said he couldn’t access the valves to test the refrigerant level … a total bummer … I’m going back to the boat (2011 R27) this weekend to poke around the quarter berth and see if I can access the unit from the other side (stern side). I had opened up the cover from the V berth (port side) and figured the valves could be accessed by feel …

My system symptoms are the occasional LPF error code, otherwise the system typically blows very cold air … so perhaps there’s an icing issue , valve issue or low refrigerant but we need better access … #boating
 
I put in a hatch to access the AC on my 2011 R27. I can't find the pictures right now but, did post them here last year. Yes, cutting out the 1 inch honeycomb was an adventure, but it sure is nice to open up right over the top of the AC. I'm actually thinking of opening up the lower portion of the seat support for storage. There's a nice sized void right behind the microwave. Plus, it would be nice to move the port side AC vent to blow air out into the cabin better.
 
I just checked and there’s a couple pictures of the mod in my album here on Tugnuts.

super helpful, I assume you removed and relocated the control panel to allow access to the service ports... question to you and the group, has anyone had success in accessing the service ports without this modification?
 
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