1500 hours

[dalee62]

Turned over 1500 hours this morning on my 2010 3ym30.

On my third water pump impeller. None have died I just change them.
New mixing elbow this spring.
Replaced water pump and alternator belt last year.
Valve clearance was checked at about 1100 hours, no problem.
Heat exchanger clear as a bell last fall.
New rubber fuel lines on the engine in the spring.

How's that for useless information.
Dave

 

[Newf]

Hi Dave,,Not useless information for me. Always interested in total run hours and the Maint. that folks are performing.

I have 1300hrs on my 2014 R21EC. So far I've just performed the scheduled oil changes, fuel filter and impeller changeouts. At the first 500hr impeller changeout, most of the vanes were cracked with a couple of them cracked almost completely through. I replaced the second one after another 400hrs. It still had some cracked vanes but not as bad as the previous one. I will be doing the next changeout in a day or two.

What led you to replace your mixing elbow and fuel lines? Issues or just preventative Maint. Did you do the valve clearance checks and exchanger inspection yourself? If yes, were they big jobs to tackle? My Volvo Penta has been running so well I'm almost afraid to touch anything. (Knock on wood) Don't fixed what ain't broken syndrome.

90% of my engine hours are trolling so I really should look at some of these preventive measures you have completed.

Thanks again for sharing your info.

Marcel.

 

[dalee62]

I have had the mixing elbow off a few times for inspection and cleaning. Where there was always build up was where the water gets injected into it. If this was not monitored I could see the potential for it to become plugged. I decided it was time to replace it for piece of mind. The fuel hoses had become hard and what I felt was brittle so in my world it was time to replace them. I did not do the valves myself but they were not out of whack I'm told. I did the heat exchanger myself. Not hard at all. Took both ends off and held a trouble light at one end.

My boat has run probably at 2700 rpm for 80% of its hours.

I'm watching the motor mounts. They are more pliable than when new which makes her shake a little more when at idle. No difference above say 600 rpm.

Dave

 

[baz]

The engine has a great deal of vibration and this can cause premature wearing on hoses that are in contact or near contact with the engine components. Have you ensured the hoses are zipped tied to keep them away from the engine and the pulley belts ? On my R-21EC I had the factory do a complete job for ensuring the hoses were well clear and not subject to being worn through from the vibrations and pulley belt(s).

Use the SpeedSeal product for making the impeller change a 5 min job.

 

[sheral]

Interesting post, thanks! Our R21EC spends about 80% of its time trolling in the chuck up here around Lund, BC. The mixing elbow is on my list of ‘to check’ items as I suspect the low rpms may contribute to build up faster than if it was run harder. I have changed my impeller every year, just because. Other than the first change, the impellers have looked like new but then I did put in a Speedseal Kit after the first season, which I believe made a difference. That’s all I have really been doing too: engine oil, trans oil, fuel filters, and checking everything over each fall/winter. I change out the closed loop antifreeze every second season and plan to keep up with that as a preventative measure for the heat exchanger. Great little engines, imho.

 

[Boris the Tug]

most of the vanes were cracked with a couple of them cracked almost completely through.

May I ask, what's a vane?

 

[baz]

The vane is is part of the raw water pumps impeller. If you look into the front of a jet engine on a modern aircraft you will see a big fan with lots of vanes. The raw water pump's impeller has vanes much like you see in the front of a jet engine. The raw water impeller rotates within an elliptical cavity and its vanes are bent to fit within this. As the impeller rotates these bent vanes create a suction force that draws raw water into the impeller's housing and then pushes it out into the engine to cool it. Because the vanes are continually being bent over as they traverse around the elliptical cavity they are subject to stress and fatigue and over time they can start to crack at their base where they are attached to the impeller's hub.

 

[Newf]

Changed out the impeller today at 1340 hours on the engine. (2014 21EC--Volvo Penta engine) 460hrs on the impeller and as was the case with previous two changeouts, the vanes are cracked. Two vanes had very minor cracking at the hub, 2 were cracked about 30% of the length across the hub and the other two were cracked about 90% through. Would not have lasted much longer. Need to start inspecting at a couple of hundred hours to try and narrow down when the cracking starts.