2 part shower sump question

HappyPlace

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2016
Messages
145
Fluid Motion Model
C-302 SC
Hull Identification Number
FMLT3133A414
Vessel Name
Happy Place
Last night, the weather was pleasant enough to stay on the hook without the generator running. It was beautiful out and very peaceful, until I heard the shower sump starting and stopping. At first I thought it may be due to the residual ac condensation that runs into the sump, from earlier in the day, but this continued throughout the night every few minutes. I'm not sure if this is due to a faulty float switch or there is a valve not allowing the water to completely empty and it is flowing back in. Somewhere I heard that this pump does a self test every so often, but I wouldn't think this would be every few minutes.

1. Any thoughts on the culprit?
2. Any ideas on re-routing the ac condensation lines from the sump?

Thanks in advance,

Al Sr.
 
The float switches are down right awful. I disconnected mine and put in a switch to run when showering since the pump has a mind of its own. I went through 2 new switches before giving up.
 
Admiral,

I would love to do this, but our air conditioning condensation lines drain into this sump. If I could find a better option for these, I would consider this option!

Al Sr.
 
Most of the other boats just drain into the bilge and the more reliable switch and pump in the engine compartment deal with it. Not an ideal option but negates the sump.

I will be installing something similar to this over the winter to keep the water out of the bilge -

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?pa ... id=2756613
 
I would prefer to separate the two entities and combat them individually. The idea of a manual switch for the shower and something else for the condensation lines is probably the route I'll take. Draining the condensation lines to the bilge is a temporary fix that will work, as I keep the bilge clean and rinse it often. It is obviously easier to reach and is part of my startup and shutdown sequence anyway. If I go this route, I'll need to figure out how to get the lines into the engine compartment.

Al Sr.
 
The bilge has weeps all the way to the rear. You should be able to run a condensate down to the bilge and the water should work its way back.
 
Hi Al,

You might also inspect the check valve on the output side of the box. If not functioning correctly, it can allow water to re-enter back into the box causing the pump to turn on and off. If this appears to be okay, then most likely it is an issue with the float inside the box. You can easily inspect it by removing the 4 screws that keep the clear lid in place.

Please feel free to give us a call at the office anytime (253)839-5213, and we'd be happy to help diagnose over the phone.

Thank you,

-Tim
 
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