2011 C26 Wallas mysteries

[Diatom]

New "old C26" owner, trust you'll tolerate a couple of daft newbie questions.
Principal mystery of the moment: This is a Yanmar diesel equipped with a diesel/kero burning Wallas stove/heater.
1. My amateur eyes fail to locate a "day tank" fuel reservoir, presumably drawing from main tank?
2. It's in red-blink-of-death mode. Can't reset: neither throwing the "stove" breaker nor killing the house circuit nor kill-all + disconnect shore power manage to extinguish the blink - wired to bypass controls? So there must be a fuse (where?) or failing that a wire I can disconnect at some terminal, somewhere to momentarily interrupt power so as to reset?

Thanks...

 

[Bruce Moore]

Bumping post delayed in moderator queue.

 

[knotflying]

A couple of things: You are most likely drawing diesel fuel off of the main tank. As far as the red blinking light goes, that is an error code. You should find the manual for your model and it will tell you what the blinks indicate and how to reset. Are your batteries well charged? The Wallace is very voltage sensitive. If you cannot find the fuse, you should be able to find the power supply under the unit and disconnect that and follow the restart sequence in the manual. If the unit has not been used in a while it can be bad fuel in line, lack of fuel in line, clogged glow plug etc. that is why reading the code is important.

 

[Diatom]

Thanks for assist! Voltage good and shore-power all night. Looks like access to stove would require removing microwave beneath. Found a nylon sipper line apparently full of pale diesel entering engine hatch (C26 Yanmar protrudes under cabin with access hatch) immediately beneath Wallas - eventually connects to a more serious looking rubber 0.5" rubber hose; accompanied by two ~12 Ga wires that disappear into a massive snarl of zip-tied similars - no obvious inline fuses. Error Code: on attempted start yellow LED steady-on for a moment as fan starts then yellow + red blink synchronously 4/sec for a long time. That seems to mean "you were too impatient on first ignition attempt, penalty = lockout". So I'm back to hunting for a breaker/switch/fuse, for the moment. There was some mention in an ancient post of a floating fuse near the main battery bank switches - I see a hatch in the aft wall of the cave beneath the switches, maybe in there. The hunt continues. Chief suspects include bad glowplug or simple needs-a-reset.

 

[rackline]

If you don't have a manual you can download them at Wallas.fi. There is also a page there for error codes https://wallas.fi/index.php?id=235 I had my local Ranger dealer try to get mine going a few years ago and after calling support for help they were told that it had never been sent in for service and that it was overdue to be sent back.

 

[scross]

We love our Wallas stove+Heater in our 2009 RT 25 Classic! In our boat there is a separate 2-3 gallon sized white plastic fuel tank for the Wallas in the starboard side locker in the cockpit. We use kerosene fuel only.
The “trick” to the Wallas is to only push the start button ONCE then wait at least 5 minutes for it to cycle on. If, after 5 minutes, it didn’t start then you can push the start button again. Pushing it multiple times WILL put it into error mode. The manual explains the reset process and it’s fairly straightforward. Same admonition for turning the Wallas off - just push the off button ONCE!
In 5 years of heavy use we have had to reset twice. Both times were caused by hitting the on button twice before the start cycle was completed.

PS: Manual for our model here:
https://www.scanmarineusa.com/wp-conten ... c-2011.pdf

 

[Diatom]

Many thanks for the replies - and links to manuals. My unit same as @scross 's unit.
Never found a fuse/breaker. Pulled the microwave & things are clear under the Wallas: quick-connect power plug permits reset (though there must be a better way!). Sipper line is bubble-free and full of diesel, no obvious paraffin or dirt. Pump & fan work energetically and near-silently. Once reset, the thing tries to ignite: Steady yellow on start, then at 90 second mark starts emitting a sort of "clunk" noise every three seconds (pump pulsing? attempted ignition?) for about 7 minutes, then aborts and goes into cool-down mode. No further error codes noted (except that every two failed ignition attempts causes another lockout code). Voltage reads 13.5V on DC panel meter. Cooking circles become noticeably warm to touch during startup sequence. Maybe pump not primed (fuel is so clean that flow cannot be discerned, but visible portion of sipper line is obviously full). Maybe glow plug borked (but the associated error code is not displayed, doubt it).

 

[knotflying]

Sometimes you have to do a start up several times. Can't remember if there is a filter, you may want to check that as well. Since you have the microwave out it will be easy enough to do several resets if you have to.

 

[nzfisher]

That sounds like a lack of fuel to stove issue. Perhaps it has lost its “prime” and has air bubble in hose. I think the manual addresses this issue. It is a good unit once these initial issues are addressed.(see scross post) There is a fuse holder near the main switches on mine (R25sc) that is actually labeled “wallas”. An obscure location but it is there.

 

[scross]

Based on your detailed description of the symptoms I’m in nzfisher’s camp that it’s a fuel flow issue. I’d give Wallas a call and discuss with them. I think they are at 206-285-3675 in Seattle.
Oh, since we don’t have a built in microwave access to the underside of the unit is easy, just open the cabinet door and there it is!

 

[Diatom]

Resolved! Issue was crystallized paraffins in cold diesel after months of sitting around, precipitating in copper lines at/after pump. Thanks to ScanMarine for posting the hair-dryer idea on their website, worked instantly. Anyone else who dares attempt: consider the flash point of winter diesel... hair dryers a potential source of both heat & ignition, potentially dangerous.

I never did find the fuse, hours of pretzel-contortions notwithstanding. Wasted a day drilling out old frozen nuts/bolts, going slow to avoid igniting upholstery. Vendor swears there's a wire in the "engine compartment" labelled WALLAS with an inline fuse... well hidden if so. I'll mount a pushbutton NC switch inline to the main connector, right on the "dash" beside the Wallas controls, to facilitate instant resets next time.

/Diatom

 

[RangerLove]

Hi Diatom,

I see that you are BC-based in beautiful Salt Spring Island. We too are in BC.

I’ve recently had an issue with my Wallace diesel heater (not the same issue as yours), but I suggest keeping in mind Thomas at Trotac Marine in Victoria. I ended up sending my 30D Wallace to him. He is the main Wallace technician in Canada (and an obviously good guy), and will happily trouble shoot with you over the phone prior to any technician/his intervention that may be needed. I needed his help and parts after doing several rounds of troubleshooting.

Simply a heads-up if anything further is needed. My experience with him was great.

Cheers.

 

[Diatom]

[Wallas issue resolved - post mortem chatter]

@RangerLove yes SSI, normally Steveston for the winters but when COVID showed up I declared the summer dacha our home until vaccinations show up. Been here for a full year now, what I really miss about the city is... um... nothing.

Yes TROTAC - they were down for the holidays, left them a msg but ScanMarine scooped them with an curative online post.

/Diatom

 

[Diatom]

And - finally found the Wallas fuse: green ~6Ga wire direct to house battery post bypasses breakers/switches; sure enough there's an inline fuse a few 6" off the post.

/Diatom