2012 R25 Windlass DOA

[bigdealsam]

I have reset the breaker switch on the starboard side of the helm. Still nothing. Was working fine previously but now it is completely dead. Apparently not getting power to the windlass. Any ideas of what to check? I'm relatively new. TYVM Sam

 

[Red Raven]

Make sure your Thruster battery disconnect switch is turn on. On many of the models (all?) the windlass is powered by the Thruster battery. There also is a windlass breaker right below the helm seat on our 2014 R27 near the inverter control panel. That could be tripped.

Curt

 

[glider4]

Curt, good advice as usual.
Bigdealsam, if Curt’s advice doesn’t resolve the problem you may want to check the voltage going to the windlass at the wires coming into its motor. That will tell you whether or not the problem is between the windlass and the battery bank that powers it or within the windlass electric motor. Many folks have rebuilt their windlass by replacing a corroded motor.
RE Curt’s comments on the Thruster battery powering the windlass. On many FM boats that’s correct. Unfortunately, some (all??) of more recent inboard diesels run the windlass off the house bank like our 2017 C-28. This was a really dumb move by FM since the windlass needs short bursts of high amp power which is not a good fit with a deep cycle house bank type battery. The windlass really should be powered by the Thruster battery bank like it was in earlier models. And to digress a bit, both engine and thruster batteries should be starter type batteries - not the deep cycle as supplied by FM for house, starter and thruster+windlass.

 

[CaspersCruiser]

……both engine and thruster batteries should be starter type batteries - not the deep cycle as supplied by FM for house, starter and thruster+windlass.

That is a fact. The starter, windlass, and thrusters are short duration, high amp appliances. A deep cycle battery is not designed for that type of load.

 

[bigdealsam]

Thanks Guys. I will ck voltage at the Windlass tomorrow and report findings. Your advice is much appreciated. Sam Baker

 

[doke01]

It you have power at the windlass, the electric motor could be corroded. They are pretty easy to disassemble and check. I remember the motor wasn't very expensive. After clean up, replacing the motor, greasing, and oiling I made sure to use a good marine caulk as a sealant between the halfs. Water had leaked through over time, causing the corrosion.

 

[jack_patricia]

I'm new - both here and to FM boats - but have lived with various windlasses for several decades on sailboats. IME it was always recommended that a windlass have a cover and putting it on was simply part of the "clean up/lock up" process of putting the boat to bed. These 'clam shell' windlass designs have always been notorious for water getting into motors. At one time, Lewmar even sold a molded "rubber" cover that fit snugly over some of its windlasses for this reason. In the YT videos and blogs I've seen so far, I don't think I've ever seen a FM boat with a windlass cover. FWIW - again, I'm new to this community - this seems odd to me.