2014 Cutwater C-28 drive shaft Packing

M

Mike Wolff

Active member
Joined
Apr 16, 2019
Messages
32
Fluid Motion Model
R-21 EC
Hull Identification Number
FMLC2846414
Vessel Name
The Wolff's Den
MMSI Number
338334141
I had my 2014 C-28 Cutwater propeller shaft repacked last week. I was told in the past that it was suppose to drip about 10 drips per minute. It has always dripped in the past. Since they repacked the shaft it doesn’t drip at all. Is this normal? Should I be concerned? Thanks!
 
It depends on what sort of packing they used. If they use the traditional flax type it should drip as you noted when the prop is turning. The seal shouldn't leak much or at all when the shaft is not turning. There are goretex/carbon fiber packings that claim to be able to run dripless. I would ask what they used. If they used a traditional flax type packing, you need to loosen the packing nut a little until it does drip with the shaft turning.
 
The Fluid Motion inboard powered boats have a shaft log. The cutlass bearing is pressed into this log. Cutlass bearings get lubricated by water. When a Cutwater or Ranger tug is in forward lubrication to the bearing is from the raw water cooling that is injected into it at the packing gland. When the gland packing is in good condition and adjusted properly there should be no water leaking from the gland when the engine is not operating. When the engine is operating and in gear a properly adjusted packing gland should dip 1 to 3 drips per minute. The location of the gland is close to the coupling and the reverse gear. At 3 drips per minute when operating the engine there is a fine mist spray that is atomized from. the drips at speed. This is common for all packing glands. Normal installations there is a larger spacing between the gland and the machinery. The fine mist doesn't do any damage other than cause some oxidation to the gland ( turn it green). The installations in Rangers and Cutwaters this can be a different story. If the packing is leaking more than 3 to 5 drips per minute engine running in gear at speed the drips are flung up and around and eventually can cause oxidation to the metal components and electrical connectors associated with the engine. Theses engine are common rail and operating with a electronic management system. My point is 10 drips per minute sitting at the dock is not a good practice. 10 drips when the engine is running and in gear is not a good practice. 1 to 3 drips with this type packing gland is what you want to shoot for. When I owned a C26 Cutwater ( same gland as the C28). 650 hours on it, adjusted it twice in that time. I never saw more than 2 drips a minute when in gear and running. I only moved the gland nut 1/4 turn in the 650 hours. It takes very little adjustment to make it right. The problem most folks wait to long to adjust and then tighten to much.

To try to eliminate issues from the gland spray I made a vinyl shield to deflect the spay downward into the bilge. This proved to be beneficial protecting the machinery. 5 years and 650 hours.
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I cut the side out of a gallon plastic milk jug and cover the packing gland with it. Not an elegant solution, but it captures the fine mist mentioned by Brian. Cut a slot for the rubber water hose that cools the cutless bearing and the milk jug will stay in place nicely without touching any of the rotating parts.
 
Thanks to everyone for getting me this info. Very helpful! Thanks again!
 
During the lifespan of these packing glands should the packing nuts ever need to be loosened rather than tightened? For example the drip rate is fine initially then becomes unexpectedly infrequent.
 
ridesn":1v7hy1gy said:
During the lifespan of these packing glands should the packing nuts ever need to be loosened rather than tightened? For example the drip rate is fine initially then becomes unexpectedly infrequent.
Click to expand...

No, you do not want to back off on the nut. If it quit dripping after a proper adjustment I would be looking at the water line coming off the engine going to the gland to confirm that there is good water flow. then inspect the fitting at the gland to confirm it is not fouled.
 
sgeary":30jy6555 said:
I cut the side out of a gallon plastic milk jug and cover the packing gland with it. Not an elegant solution, but it captures the fine mist mentioned by Brian. Cut a slot for the rubber water hose that cools the cutless bearing and the milk jug will stay in place nicely without touching any of the rotating parts.
Click to expand...

I did the same thing on my 28 Cutwater and it works great.
 
Can someone tell me where the nut is to tighten the packing gland. Thanks
 
Thanks for the picture. Tell me if I have this right. Loosen the small nut away from the large packing nut. The move the packing nut forward towards the small nut by a small increment. Then move the small nut back against the packing nut. If that does not solve the problem then repeat. Thanks. This thread has been very useful.
 
Back off the thin locking nut. Loosening the nut moves it away from the packing nut. Spray a small amount of penetrating oil on the threads of the packing gland. Turn the locking nut back to the packing nut then back it off again. Repeat this until the locking nut moves freely and the threads are clean from corrosion (green stuff). This will help ease turning the packing nut when you start to tighten the packing. To tighten packing turn the packing nut so it moves AFT toward the locking nut.
Packing adjustment. No drips when the engine is not running. 3 or less when the engine is running and in gear. There should be no trying to get the drip rate right. It takes very little adjustment to get that gland to proper adjustment. I have adjusted packing in R27, R29,C26/28, 31 Tug all a PIA!! But completely doable. It is tight quarters. Many use offset pipe wrenches which is the Fluid Motion preferred way. I adjusted a R29 using this method and thought it was very cumbersome. I purchased two plumbers wrenches, adjusted one to fit the locking nut and the other to fit the packing nut. I drilled and pinned the jaws to lock in this position.

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With a drip rate of more than 5 drips a minute it should take no more than 1/8 of a turn. I would start with 1/16 of a turn probably enough. When you start mark the adjustment nut at 12 o'clock. This is your reference mark for how much you are turning the nut. Move the packing nut 1/32 of a turn towards the locking nut (aft), stop there, snug the locking nut up to the packing nut. Start the engine put it in gear. ( have the boat succored well at a dock ) let it run for a few minutes in gear, then check drips. If you need to go more adjustment. Shut everything down adjust to 1/16th turn from original as found position. repeat. Baby steps to adjust properly and maintain the longevity of the packing. Over tightening the packing may stop the leak but it will also decrease the longevity and you will have to repeat adjustment more frequently. I adjusted my packing twice in 650hr of use. Once after I purchased it new,( between 100 to 200 hr) because it was not adjusted properly. The next time at 650 hours. The total movement of the packing nut was less than 1/4 turn between the two adjustments. The original 12 o'clock mark was sitting at 2 o'clock after 650 hr adjustment -Baby steps.....
 
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