2014 R31S with no battery power.

[griervictoria]

I recently was anchored for 2 days and nights, with my engine and thruster batteries switches turned off. I had the main fridge, beer (Cockpit) fridge running all the time and the Webasto heater running at night on a low setting.
On the 3rd morning I was shocked to find that ALL my batteries were run down to the point that I could not start the engine. The parallel switch was off the whole time.
I waited for 3 hours and the solar panel charged things up enough to get the engine running. (I only have a portable genset which I did not have aboard at that time. (Will not leave it home again!)
My question to the factory is, could the original wiring have somehow connected the engine and thruster batteries to the house batteries?. I subsequently had a load test done and all batteries are good.
Has anybody else encountered this problem before? Can the factory rep please help here.
Thanks. Jim Grier Canoe Cove BC Glasgow Ranger.

 

[scross]

Not answering your main issue but perhaps help you never be surprised by your battery bank states again.
Buy a Victron Energy Smart Battery long range monitor for each battery bank. They are under $40 each and very easy to install. Get the VE app for your phone. Check your battery voltage at a couple of times a day. Just takes a few seconds to check all three banks readings. Download the percentage of charge tables for your battery chemistry so you will have a reasonable guess as to your battery’s state. Remember that charging and discharging a battery will impact the voltage readings.
For our AGM batteries, I get concerned when voltage measured by the battery monitors falls below 11.9 volts for any bank.

 

[Cutwater28GG]

Do you have a sun saver duo solar controller and blue seas acrs?
If so, I’m pretty sure this combination can cause all batteries to drain when at anchor. I have this issue. It’s the ACRs that cycle as the solar panel moves into the sun and shade as you swing at anchor which effectively connects all batteries together.

It’s that or you also have a parasitic drain on your engine start battery like the propane solenoid or bilge pump. (Could be both) and it’s a bad install from the factory.

The smart shunt can help you diagnose

 

[griervictoria]

Thank you both for your replies. I will look into both suggestions.

 

[Martin610]

Interesting problem. I have the SunSaver Duo and have never experienced this. I have occasionally had to run down my house batteries down to 40%, but engine battery was fine. You can do that on AGM's as long as you don't make a habit out of it.

Are you sure the ACR's are functioning properly?

Smart shunt is a great option to have. Without it you are dancing in the dark regarding battery management.

It does take some work though. You will likely need a negative buss bar and some additional terminations to get your negative terminals all moved off the batteries and over to the buss bar. Absolutely every negative cable must be terminated so that all electricity will traverse the shunt.

-martin610

 

[Cutwater28GG]

As far as I understand from the acr specs If your solar panels keep the volts at the acr above 12.75v. Then the batteries will not disconnect from each other and you will be using power from engine and house batteries. Both will expericence and state of discharge. Yet with the volts at 12.8 volts you won’t be properly charging the batteries. It’s sitting in this middle ground voltage range that’s the problem.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/S ... 4V_DC_120A

 

[SJI Sailor]

Agreed with all the suggestions. On our boat I also started carrying a lithium jump starter just in case (have never needed it but have used the same model several times on cars! Very handy.)

HULKMAN Alpha85 Smart JumpStarter 2000 Amp 20000mAh Car Starter for up to 8.5L Gas and 6L Diesel Engines with Boost Function for Totally Dead Battery 12V Lithium Portable Car Battery Booster Pack https://a.co/d/1TcFryj

The Volvo D6 435 is 5.5L so this should be adequate although a larger size would be insurance.

One thing I like about this model is that, unlike some, it has an override mode that doesn't just provide cranking amps but serves as a charger. Can connect it, turn that on, and wait 10-15 minutes while it brings the battery to a minimum charging state. Probably not great for the battery but better than being stuck! The one time I had to do that with a car, it worked well and then I ran a battery charger/conditioner when able.

 

[Brian John]

As far as I understand from the acr specs If your solar panels keep the volts at the acr above 12.75v. Then the batteries will not disconnect from each other and you will be using power from engine and house batteries. Both will expericence and state of discharge. Yet with the volts at 12.8 volts you won’t be properly charging the batteries. It’s sitting in this middle ground voltage range that’s the problem.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/S ... 4V_DC_120A

If you are drawing power from each battery bank at some point the batteries will fall below 12.75. VDC (for Blue Seas) the ACR should disconnect isolating the battery banks. I would do a point-to-point inspection of the battery/ACR/Battery Parallel switch and verify they are properly wired.