2016 R27 D3 timing belt change

condywynn

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C-24 C
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inflatables
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his &hers
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notyethav
Hoping we can revisit the question: Does the motor have to be pulled/removed to change the timing belt and other
components near it? Ie.belt tensioner pully?

Will removing panels in the "cave" and in front of the engine provide enough room to do the work? Large increase in
cost obviously if it has to be hauled out. Researching TugNuts site I cannot find a sure answer. Please weigh-in.
 
I researched this last year as we have a 2013 Classic 27 with the D3 with around 800 hrs. The folks at Ranger said yes it can be done without pulling the engine and doing it as you indicated. We decided to take it to La Conner Maritime to have the engine pulled plus misc stuff you can only do when the engine is out. Our boat is currently there. We felt more comfortable having them check everything out. Keep looking for the posts, I believe it was Kenny who explained how to do it.
 
Thank you for that CMWAHL. We have the same boat & boat year. Ours got a 2016 D3 when the original one quit.
 
I'm going to pull the engine on my 2015. Yes, I'm told it can be dome but I'm sure its would be a knucklebuster. I need to change the mounts - and it seems i have found a substitute for Volvo Penta mounts. They are Isomats - at 190 each compared to Volvos 645 mount. I'll just bite the bullet and pull the engine because who does not like to hear - "since we have the motor out..."
 
I'm going to pull the engine on my 2015. Yes, I'm told it can be dome but I'm sure its would be a knucklebuster. I need to change the mounts - and it seems i have found a substitute for Volvo Penta mounts. They are Isomats - at 190 each compared to Volvos 645 mount. I'll just bite the bullet and pull the engine because who does not like to hear - "since we have the motor out..."
 
Replaced belt last week - belt looked ok, tensioner not so ok - had about 1/2 the tension. So, running on borrowed time.

Pulled the engine - Isoflex motor mounts will not fit - they may have some that do but I'm not going to finance the development of it.

It was better to just pull the motor and just clean up everything and be done with it.
 
tranmkp":1lqbood0 said:
Replaced belt last week - belt looked ok, tensioner not so ok - had about 1/2 the tension. So, running on borrowed time.

Pulled the engine - Isoflex motor mounts will not fit - they may have some that do but I'm not going to finance the development of it.

It was better to just pull the motor and just clean up everything and be done with it.


Interesting information, thanks. How many hours on the engine?
 
One thing to remember when using the Volvo service recommendations. Hours relates to wear. Years or time in a marine environment relates to mechanical failure caused from moisture in the air or from water. In the 2016 Volvo Penta D3 owners manual the recommendation for belt replacement is every 1400 hours / At least every 8 years. That recommendation gives me a question mark! I read it as the engineers are thinking that 8 years is pushing it. At least in my interpretation means probably sooner but we don't want to state that in the manual.

If you are a cruiser that logs 200 to 300 hours a year on your engine after 6 years of cruising you will be replacing the belt kit, belt ,tensioner, and freshwater circulator pump. The belt will be at its point of stretch and wear if the tensioner is functioning properly. The D3 is a interference valve train motor. Meaning if the valve timing is off the piston hits the valves and in most cases destroys the engine. A loose belt or broken belt can cause this to happen.

If you are a cruiser that logs 100 hours a year and you look at the hour meter for service intervals you may have mechanical issues even though there is little wear on the engine and components. Example: timing belt wear is minimal but the tensioner has some corrosion and is not moving freely or because of time the spring tension is reduced and not sufficient. At 6 years you only have 600 hours and the belt wear is estimated to last 1400 hours. Why change it? Because of marine age.

The best case is you change the belt and tensioner at 6 years and 400 hours and it all looks like new. This means you have maintained a dry well ventilated engine compartment and your engine should last a long time. The other case would be the tensioner is weak and belt tension is marginal. This too is good information and a way of stepping up your maintenance by maintaining a dry, well ventilated compartment in the future.

Maintenance schedules using hours is for cruising boats that put several hundred hours a year on the engines. Maintenance schedules using season or year is for most boaters.

In tranmkp's case the hours were not much but 8 years is pushing it. Remember how the engines wrote the years, AT LEAST 8 YEARS. I read that as probably sooner but for marketing purposes we will say 8! Just my opinion!!

I know of several tensioner failures resulting in valve interference with D3 engines. The ones that I know of are in Ranger Tugs R25 and R27. I know of many raw water belt tensioners D3 that have failed too. Same principle. Good engine compartment ventilation and a dry bilge will help reduce theses failures. Its not hours that cause the failures it is maintenance and marine life.

Good information provided by tranmkp. I also agree that at eight years pulling the engine to do the belt change is the way to do it. It is a tight compartment to do the job. When the engine removed, it is a perfect time to clean the bilge and inspect hard to get at components . Clean up the engine and touch up paint. Engine mount inspection or replacement.
 
This job is very easy to do by removing the panels in front of the engine in the salon, laying on your belly, inching yourself forward and geter done.
The only problem I had was the belt tensioner for the water pump would not move to get the belt off. Since I was replacing the belt any way I cut the belt, and replaced the tensioner too.
As an OBTW, the hardest part to change is the crank case breather filter. And getting to it from the front of the engine may make it some what easier.

Smooth Sailing,

Ralph
 
Ralph,

Are you speaking about changing the water pump belt and tensioner and possibly water pump impeller? I agree this is a pretty simple job with tough access.

Or are you referring to changing the timing belt and belt tensioner which is internal to the engine? This work is much more involved.

Thanks for clarifying.
Bob
 
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