2018 R-23 Trailering Questions / Concerns

[VandTjen]

Tweety-II and I are newbies to Ranger Tugs and to Tugnuts, We got our R-23 (Tweety-II) in April this year and are spending this summer getting to know her and understand her ways from our place in South Puget Sound by Steamboat Island. It's a great place and time in my life to have a Ranger Tug, what a great "little" boat ! For this post I could use a little help with two (2) issues that have to do with landing the boat on the trailer at our home marina.

1) The ramp in our marina is a bit steep, and the blade on our 10Kg Rocna anchor is interfering with the handle on the winch when you land the boat on the trailer (i.e., you can't turn the handle because it hits the anchor). I've read a lot of posts about this and understand the geometry problem. What I'd like to know is what other R-23 folks are doing to address this? I'm thinking of actually letting out a few feet of anchor chain and (a) either storing it in the port or starboard anchor locker (in a soft bag) just for this evolution, or (b) getting a hanger and hanging it from the bow rail for this evolution. What works and doesn't work for you?

2) Correctly positioning the boat on the bunks has been a challenge. My thinking is this: If the boat bunks are in the right place at the stern and you're lined up at the eye (on the bow, everything else should take care of itself - correct? A little background - I have the same EZ Loader aluminum I-Beam quad-bunk trailer that came with the boat when the original owner picked it up from the factory. The bunk carpet was showing wear, so I put Gatorbaks on them to make them highly visible under-water, and to help with the Tug-Bump after I get the "big girl" landed... and yes, they really do work!. My question has to do with the position of both (port and starboard) front (forward) bunks - even when the aft bunks are properly centered astern. Both front bunks come to rest canted (or cocked, tilted, etc.?) so they are resting on the hull and the chines ( strakes?). It looks to me like the forward bunks should NOT be resting on the chines (or strakes) - that they should be resting flat against the hull between the chines (or strakes) so they don't put undue pressure on that part of the hull. Please take a look at the pictures I have posted and tell me if you think I have a legitimate concern (and maybe what I need to do about it); or am I overthinking this ? Other question ?

Thanks for your Help!

VandTjen

 

[az9133bm]

We are trailer boaters. We have launched and recovered our R23 in most all conditions including steep ramps.

For item #1, likely you are backing the trailer too deep into the water. Notwithstanding our different manufacture trailer (LoadRite), we would recommend having the forward bunks mostly exposed and winching the boat to the winch stand. It is more physical work but tends to align the boat on the trailer. Perhaps addressing your stern positioning problem.

Notwithstanding this advice, your ramp may be so steep that even the last foot or so will still impact your winch. In this case, consider winching as close as possible, securing the boat in this position, driving up the ramp, and executing the "Ranger Tug Bump" in the parking lot. Most of us trailer boaters execute the bump occasionally to get the plumb bows of our boats firmly into the winch stand roller. Search this site for more information. We execute the procedure as follows:
1. Find an open section of the parking lot preferably with a downward slope.
2. Release the forward winch from your boat.
3. Drive slowly forward then slam on the brakes. It doesn't take much force. Practice by starting slowly.
4. The boat/trailer are still wet from the recovery and your boat will slide forward on the trailer to nudge the winch stand roller.

For item #2, consider adjusting the forward bunks. These bolt-together trailers like our LoadRite seem to be infinitely adjustable in almost all directions. We've adjusted ours by taking careful dimensions on dry land, determining the changes, launching the boat, making the adjustments in the parking lot and recovering the boat to validate the changes. Certainly, it helps to have a calm and deserted launch ramp to keep the drama low.

In your case, since only the forward bunks need to be moved outboard, consider using an appropriate vehicle/floor jack under the forward keel with an appropriately long/thick wooden plank for hull protection. By releasing your winch, jacking the bow carefully, and keeping your stern safely supported on the rear bunks, you could likely work in your driveway and take your time getting the adjustment right.

 

[VandTjen]

Thanks for the advice Ruby. For # 1: We can't change our ramp, but we allowed the boat to hang further back when coming out of the water. This required an adjustment to the quick-link on the safety chain, and a larger "Ranger Tug Bump. Long to short: it worked. After the boat is in the right place on the trailer, I simply re-adjusted the quick link on the safety chain and cinch down the other towing straps. # 2 : We adjusted the front and rear bunks outward exactly 1/2" inch each. This made it easier (on the last landing) for the bunks to land right where they need to be. When we did that, we also needed to move the mast forward about 3/4 inch to get the eye to land above the roller where it had before. It gives us slightly more tongue weight when fully loaded (about 100 lbs,), but that is not a problem.

 

[scross]

For #1. Just put the anchor up on the bow before launching. Stand in the trailer tongue in the parking lot, run the windlass out a few feet and put the anchor on the deck next to the windlass. Launch. Carefully drop anchor then tighten up with windlass. We do this every single time we launch because our ramp is not steep enough!
Same process in reverse for getting the boat back on the trailer.

 

[VandTjen]

For #1. Just put the anchor up on the bow before launching. Stand in the trailer tongue in the parking lot, run the windlass out a few feet and put the anchor on the deck next to the windlass. Launch. Carefully drop anchor then tighten up with windlass. We do this every single time we launch because our ramp is not steep enough!
Same process in reverse for getting the boat back on the trailer.

Thanks. Launching is not an issue, it's landing that is a problem. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that. I've been trying to figure out how to set it on the bow before I get to the landing dock without damaging the gelcoat. With the chain, my 10kg Rocna is a little awkward and, from that angle, not so easy on my bad rotator cuffs. I've run out about 8 feet of chain and set the anchor on the trailer to the side, but it takes time, and it would be nice to NOT have to mess around with it when I'm landing the boat on the trailer and others are standing around waiting for me. Thinking about some kind of a hanger from the bow rail or a rubber pad to set on the bow ???

 

[scross]

I have the Rocna 10 as well.
We have a Guest Dock available for short term visits where we get the boat ready for the launching ramp when taking the boat out of the water.
Mast down, anchor to bow, Bimini side panels off, etc. all done before we head to the launching ramp.
On both our current C-28 and former R-25 Classic I have been able to grab the top of the anchor roll bar and then deploy chain to the point where I can move the anchor up to the deck. I have a pad the anchor rests on while it’s on the bow.

 

[LMRanger]

It looks to me if you loosen the bolts on the forward end of the forward bunks you may be able to use a good size hammer and piece of 2x4 and bump the front of those forward bunks outboard a bit so they line up off the chine.

Ralph