2019 C28 Cabin Smell

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GeorgeArthur

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R-21 EC
Hi, new to this Forum and Cutwater boats. We just purchased a 2019 C28 and are trying to ID and eliminate a pervasive smell detected inside cabin. Can’t say definitively if it’s head-related. Pumped out holding tank, added treatment. Put bilge cleaner in bilge. Cleaned everything we can reach. Sometimes we think it’s coming from locker in V berth, but who knows. If so, there are voids along port side going under galley and aft. Just looking for some ideas and guidance. BTW, already planning to convert head to fresh H2O flush in case that’s contributing. Thanks!


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I had a river otter problem last year. They pooped and left fish and eel in the hardest places to get. After much cleaning I still get foul whiffs.
 
Wow, that sounds gnarly! I’m down in Coronado, San Diego area...probably something different...but the boat did come down here from Anacortes.


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Product from Starbrite called Nosguard....used by auto and boat dealers to eliminate smoke and pet and mildew odors....it is a chlorine dioxide gas producing packet...either fast release or slow release...sometimes takes multiple packets...not sure if otters qualify...
 
Catch22":2ykghql4 said:
Product from Starbrite called Nosguard....used by auto and boat dealers to eliminate smoke and pet and mildew odors....it is a chlorine dioxide gas producing packet...either fast release or slow release...sometimes takes multiple packets...not sure if otters qualify...
Thanks!


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Do you have air conditioning? If so sometimes the pan that the unit sits in does not drain properly and the accumulated water creates an odor. If this is your case you need to get the pan height adjusted so it drains properly. Also check your shower sump for cleanliness….. these units collect a lot of crud where odors can come from. Consider installing a black water tank charcoal filter on the exhaust vent line to address black tank odors.

Jim
 
Places to check for stagnate standing water in a C26 or C28 or things to do to prevent boat odors in a C26 or C28.

(1)The limber tube ( bilge drain tube from forward bilge to engine compartment bilge pump) can be easily plugged or plugged from the factory build. This tube drain can be found just aft of the shower sump in the forward cabin under the floor. Use a stiff cable, or electrical fish wire to confirm it is clear to the engine compartment. This allows for proper draining Fore to aft.

There are also drain tubes that drain the voids on the port and starboard sides of the fuel tank. If water is trapped in these areas the water will become stagnate.

This is a photo showing were drains are located C26 C28
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Next has Jim stated is the Air unit condensate pan. This is located behind a monkey hair bulkhead in the mid 1/4 berth area (Cave) Port side forward bulkhead where the teak air grill is located. Remove the full panel and you will have access to check the pan for standing water and to check that the drain hose is hooked up properly and the drain is not plugged. I know of several C26 and C28 that the factory failed to attach the drain hose properly and the pan would fill and spill water in the cave area.

Shower sump easy check pour water in the shower drain you should hear the pump kick on. If the pump doesn't kick on get ready to swear for a bit because the removal of the sump to repair the pump and clean the pan is a PIA the first time around because of the poor installation location.

The head and waste system has a couple of installation issues this added with a raw water flush can present some odor issues. First confirm the heads joker valve is not leaking. The head in the C26 and C28 is the lowest point of the waste system. There is a 1 1/2" waste hose that goes from the head to the waste tank and has a few high and low points were waste and raw water with sea "Cridders" can lay in between flushes. If the joker valve is bad than this stinky stuff can back up back at the head. (I change the joker valve every year to prevent this) When we do a pump out we fill the head bowl 3 times and pump fresh water through the line every time !!!! If we are leaving the boat for a few days, or weeks we fill the bowl 3 times with fresh water and flush it through to the waste tank so nothing but clean fresh water is in the hose. ( We also do not use raw water flush. I installed fresh water flush when we bought the boat.

Waste tank vent hose and vent. This gets plugged up and when it gets plugged and when it does the tank builds pressure ,this will eventually bleed off but it bleeds off to the path of least resistance which is through the joker valve. I yearly remove the vent hose from the hull vent attach a garden hose fitting to the hose and then run city hose pressure thru it back to the tank to confirm it is clean and clear.

There is an access port on the top of the waste tank 3" Remove this and clean and flush the tank. I do this once a year to keep the tank from getting to much stinky sediment on the bottom of the tank.

Hull drains, air unit drain and head and waste system components are the things I would inspect for the odor. Clean all limber holes there are several.

A dead rodent could be your issue too. It may be behind a bulkhead. There are many removable bulkheads in the C26 and C28 that will give you access to every area of the boat. I have removed all of them at one time or other while doing installations or repairs to my C26. I use a small pick to find the screws and a screw gun to remove them ( square head ) and the panel easily come out. There are no supportive bulkheads in the boat so you can get to just about every where when removing panels.

Good luck for your search for the odor.
 
Gents, thanks for all of the advice...I’ll work through these recommendations - something’s bound to work! PS: I’ve already ordered the fresh water flush conversion kit from Raritan. It was the first thing I did on our last boat (Hunter 31) and we never regretted it!


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To add to the list it may be your raw water input line into the head. I had this problem last year after a persistent red tide condition here in southern California. I figure that too much algae got into the line and died in there. I did a vinegar soak and it did a great job getting rid of the smell!

The approach I used:

1) Close stopcock to strainer.
2) Remove strainer cover.
3) Fill the strainer to the brim with a 20% (or so) vinegar/water mix and then flushing the head. It would drain most of the water from the strainer bowl but not all (it's important to not let the pump run dry).
4) Repeat step 3 until a distinct vinegar odor comes out of the head and then repeat a couple of times more.
5) Replace strainer cover.
6) Let the vinegar solution stay in the line (i.e., don't use the head) for a few days or more.
7) Ready to go!

I have this on my annual maintenance list now. Note that this will also help remove calcification from the head flapper valve - build up of which can also be a source of odor and bowl backfilling.

Eric
 
Depending on the actual scent, it could be mildew somewhere. Anywhere there is moisture, it can grow.

On my sailboat, which had a keel-stepped mast and thus an always-wet bilge (rainwater drains down the mast into the bilge), I used Kanberra Gel.

https://kanberragel.com/

This stuff is expensive, but it is worth it and works wonders. I used to buy it in bulk from Amazon or Fisheries, whoever had the cheaper price. A few well-placed pucks of the stuff (refreshed as needed) completely eliminated odors on my sailboat, with no other work, and the effect would last some time after the gel was all done (indicating that it was killing the mold with fumes, as it is supposed to).
 
I'm taking notes on all of these recommendations...I really appreciate all of your time and advice!
 
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