2019 R31-SE Stuffing Box Adjustment Tools

K

Kaptajnen

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2018
Messages
258
Fluid Motion Model
C-302 C
Vessel Name
Akvavit
The nuts for adjusting the drip on our stuffing box were overly tightened from the factory.

We bought two adjustable wrenches but they did not work. It is almost like Loctite was applied ( but that is of course not the case I hope).

So we will need better tools. Does anyone have the dimensions of the two nuts or a recommendation for the proper tools?
 
I have had the same problem, even using the wrenches used by Ranger Tugs. What has worked for me is to hold the packing nut while hitting the wrench on the locking nut with a hammer or other heavy tool. For me, this sharp hammering breaks the two nuts loose much better than simply trying to brute force them apart.
 
A little PB blaster the day before sometimes helps. I eventually cut two wrenches out of stainless steel plate with a plasma cutter. No more adjusting upside down and backwards. With a couple cheater pipes you can put a lot of pressure to bear while sitting upright.
 
I purchased a couple of cheap adjustable plumbers wrenches. The issue with them is it is hard to get them to stay in the adjusted size when trying to tighten and loosen the locking nut. I tried the wrenches that are recommended by the fluid motion folks but I found them to be to big and to hard to fit in the tight conditions. I helped a R29 owner using these big clumsy pipe wrenches. They worked but a PIA!! I Went back to my adjustable wrenches and measured the locking nut size and the packing nut size. I then adjusted the wrenches opening to fit the nut sizes. I drilled 1/4" holes into the wrench adjustment bar and installed 1/4 -20 bolts and nuts tighten the nuts and replaced the wing nut that comes with the wenches with a nut that can be wrench tightened. This holds the opening to the exact opening size so that there will be no slippage. These wrenches are light and easy to get into place. a Quick tap on the handle breaks the locking nut loose and the adjustment is easy. I used theses wrenches on my C26, and other R25, R27, I did have to make an adjustment to use on the larger packing of the R29 and R31 but they worked flawlessly.
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BB marine":30gcn4fg said:
I purchased a couple of cheap adjustable plumbers wrenches. The issue with them is it is hard to get them to stay in the adjusted size when trying to tighten and loosen the locking nut. I tried the wrenches that are recommended by the fluid motion folks but I found them to be to big and to hard to fit in the tight conditions. I helped a R29 owner using these big clumsy pipe wrenches. They worked but a PIA!! I Went back to my adjustable wrenches and measured the locking nut size and the packing nut size. I then adjusted the wrenches opening to fit the nut sizes. I drilled 1/4" holes into the wrench adjustment bar and installed 1/4 -20 bolts and nuts tighten the nuts and replaced the wing nut that comes with the wenches with a nut that can be wrench tightened. This holds the opening to the exact opening size so that there will be no slippage. These wrenches are light and easy to get into place. a Quick tap on the handle breaks the locking nut loose and the adjustment is easy. I used theses wrenches on my C26, and other R25, R27, I did have to make an adjustment to use on the larger packing of the R29 and R31 but they worked flawlessly.
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Click to expand...

Brian,

I bought the same adjustable wrenches and I just need to get the exact sizes of the two locking nuts so I can install the 1/4-20 bolts like you did.

When you get a chance let me know. Thanks!
 
The packing gland on the C26 is smaller than the gland in the R31. C26 has a 1/1/4" shaft and the wrench opening to fit the nut was 2 3/8" . I believe the R31 has a 1/1/2" shaft so the nut size is larger. The best way to do it is fit the a wrench to the nut and size it. Then measure the opening. Record this dimension. Get set up to drill the bolt hole with the opening set to measured dimension the opening. I used vise grips to clamp the position so there was no movement to the opening when I was drilling the holes. Then I pinned the wrench opening using the 1/4 20 bolts. I then fit the wrench to the packing nuts to confirm proper fit. You want a tight fit but it must slide easily over the nut flats. I used a flat file to give a nice machine flat surface for perfect fit.
 
Brian thank you very much!

These tools should be made available for purchase for us. I am sure there would be a decent number of customers.
 
Trick a mechanic showed me.
Couple of gentle taps with a hammer will unfreeze.
Problem is stiction, impact will loosen. Reason mechanics like impact air wrenches.
Then it is easy to adjust, the mechanic did mine by hand after tapping!.
 
The Ridgid E-110 offset hex wrench is the best tool I know of for adjusting the packing nut. You really need two of these, one for the packing nut and another for the locking nut (they rotate in opposite directions). IMO it's worth spending the money for this quality wrench, the cheaper ones slip and will damage the brass nuts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009W9BT0/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Our R-31 is only 6 months old, I haven't had to adjust the packing nuts yet. This is based on my experience adjusting the packing nuts on our Catalina sailboat (which was beyond tightening and needed repacking the stuffing box).

Hope this helps.
 
The Stuffing Box has big nut close to the engine that measures measures 2 1/2 inches.
Is that the locking nut?
The reason I ask is that it did not budge when I tapped the wrench hard with a hammer.
 
The locking nut is just a second, smaller nut on each of the two threaded shafts (1/2" I believe). It tightens -- not too hard -- against the first nut to lock it into place.
 
SJI Sailor":2pomf6km said:
The locking nut is just a second, smaller nut on each of the two threaded shafts (1/2" I believe). It tightens -- not too hard -- against the first nut to lock it into place.
Click to expand...

Now I am totally confused!

Is the locking nut the one that faces the prop?
 
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The large nut is the actual packing Nut. The thin nut is the locking nut. Before trying to loosen the locking nut clean the threads aft of the locking nut and spray a small amount of penetrating oil on to the threads. Take a small ball peen hammer and tap the nut a few times to shock to nut and gland. The locking nut is turned clockwise when facing aft. Install the wrench on the locking nut and give the wrench handle a couple taps with the hammer to help shock the nut loose. You should always have the packing nut backed up with a wrench to eliminate stresses on the packing log hose. Normally shocking the nut with the hammer will help loosen the nut. Once you get the nut loose turn it until you run out of threads. Now clean the threads forward of the locking nut. Work the locking nut back and forth to clean the threads. applied small amount of grease to the threads. Now it is time to adjust the packing nut. only go 1/8 turn at a time. Do not over tighten.
 
Thank you Brian!!!
No wonder tapping the Packing Nut did not work!
 
The best way to get the lock nut backed off is to get a drift punch or a nail set, place it at the edge of the nut and using a ballpeen tap on it to turn it in the direction of the rubber hose, that loosens it. once it moves a small amount use PB Blaster and your two other wrenches of your choice to turn it.
You may be more successful turning it by turning it one direction a 1/4 turn then back, apply more PB then turn it more loose.

Ralph
 
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