2023 R25OB Zincs

Adam

Active member
Joined
Sep 16, 2021
Messages
30
Location
Kingston WA
Fluid Motion Model
R-25 (Outboard)
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2502E223
Vessel Name
Solstice Shenanigans
MMSI Number
368273250
After having my boat moored in Kingston WA for about 7 months it's looking like the trim tab zincs are ready to be replaced. I am having a difficult time finding information on what anode material came on the boat. When searching for the zincs for the Yamaha F250, aluminum keeps showing up. Does anyone know what the 2023 Yamaha F250 comes with as far as anode material? I'd like to install aluminum trim tab zincs but wonder what is standard on the engine(s) (I have the Yamaha 9.9 kicker as well). Ivan over at the factory thinks my boat came equipped with zinc anodes as standard.

I could replace both engine exterior anodes easily enough (1 for kicker 2 for F250 I believe) but I am left wondering what the Yamaha internal crankcase anodes are made of, and I can't seem to find any info on that, or if it really matters considering the engine is only in the water while cruising. Seems it's a big no-no to mix anode materials.

Any help is appreciated, thank you.
 
The anodes required are normally chosen by the type of water you are boating in. Saltwater needs zinc anodes fresh water aluminum anodes. It is my understanding inboard boat engines Cummins Volvo spec zinc only for there engines. No info on outboard engines.
 
The Yamaha anodes are all aluminum. I’m not aware that they sell them in any other metal. Aluminum works great it saltwater and freshwater.

I run all aluminum anodes on my boat including trim tabs, and engine transom bracket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Submariner":ar1ch92d said:
The Yamaha anodes are all aluminum. I’m not aware that they sell them in any other metal. Aluminum works great it saltwater and freshwater.

I run all aluminum anodes on my boat including trim tabs, and engine transom bracket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks Martin, I had read you post this previously in a different thread but I wasn't sure whether you had to replace your outboard anodes to match the trim tabs. Good to know, I'll do aluminum on the trim tabs.

With that said, I have been reading that if the anodes aren't electrically connected they don't affect each other so it is possible that the trim tabs currently have zinc anodes while the outboard came with aluminum.

I am hoping that if I replace zinc with aluminum, I will get more life out of them. Once-a-year replacement would be awesome.
 
Adam":2ht2laca said:
Submariner":2ht2laca said:
The Yamaha anodes are all aluminum. I’m not aware that they sell them in any other metal. Aluminum works great it saltwater and freshwater.

I run all aluminum anodes on my boat including trim tabs, and engine transom bracket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks Martin, I had read you post this previously in a different thread but I wasn't sure whether you had to replace your outboard anodes to match the trim tabs. Good to know, I'll do aluminum on the trim tabs.

With that said, I have been reading that if the anodes aren't electrically connected they don't affect each other so it is possible that the trim tabs currently have zinc anodes while the outboard came with aluminum.

I am hoping that if I replace zinc with aluminum, I will get more life out of them. Once-a-year replacement would be awesome.

From the factory, they had installed zinc for my trim tabs (not bonded) and the engine transom anode (which is bonded). Also the kicker has a transom anode (bonded). Both the kicker and the F200/F300 have a rudder anode (just above the prop). All started out as zinc. I replaced them all with aluminum last year around this time.

Inside the Yamaha, there are 8 crankcase anodes, 2 thermostat anodes, and a few others. These are all more difficult to get, and are changed out with the 500 hour interval. I looked, trying to find the choices in material. All I was able to find were Yamaha part numbers, and they're only offered in aluminum was my conclusion.

I run up the Snohomish river to get to Dagmars for all my maintenance. That put me in freshwater with zinc. I was seeing my anodes get crusty, oxidize over, and thus not work as well as they should. This was my reason for switching to aluminum. Plus, we plan to make it into Lake Washington as well, more freshwater. Aluminum works with both fresh and salt.
 
Submariner":160hx1i1 said:
Adam":160hx1i1 said:
Submariner":160hx1i1 said:
The Yamaha anodes are all aluminum. I’m not aware that they sell them in any other metal. Aluminum works great it saltwater and freshwater.

I run all aluminum anodes on my boat including trim tabs, and engine transom bracket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks Martin, I had read you post this previously in a different thread but I wasn't sure whether you had to replace your outboard anodes to match the trim tabs. Good to know, I'll do aluminum on the trim tabs.

With that said, I have been reading that if the anodes aren't electrically connected they don't affect each other so it is possible that the trim tabs currently have zinc anodes while the outboard came with aluminum.

I am hoping that if I replace zinc with aluminum, I will get more life out of them. Once-a-year replacement would be awesome.

From the factory, they had installed zinc for my trim tabs (not bonded) and the engine transom anode (which is bonded). Also the kicker has a transom anode (bonded). Both the kicker and the F200/F300 have a rudder anode (just above the prop). All started out as zinc. I replaced them all with aluminum last year around this time.

Inside the Yamaha, there are 8 crankcase anodes, 2 thermostat anodes, and a few others. These are all more difficult to get, and are changed out with the 500 hour interval. I looked, trying to find the choices in material. All I was able to find were Yamaha part numbers, and they're only offered in aluminum was my conclusion.

I run up the Snohomish river to get to Dagmars for all my maintenance. That put me in freshwater with zinc. I was seeing my anodes get crusty, oxidize over, and thus not work as well as they should. This was my reason for switching to aluminum. Plus, we plan to make it into Lake Washington as well, more freshwater. Aluminum works with both fresh and salt.


I apologize for my ignorance/confusion. In your first post you said
Submariner":160hx1i1 said:
The Yamaha anodes are all aluminum. I’m not aware that they sell them in any other metal.
and in this post you said
Submariner":160hx1i1 said:
From the factory, they had installed zinc for my trim tabs (not bonded) and the engine transom anode (which is bonded). Also the kicker has a transom anode (bonded). Both the kicker and the F200/F300 have a rudder anode (just above the prop). All started out as zinc.
Again, I apologize for my ignorance, and I really appreciate your help.
 
Submariner":1tuo0az9 said:
Adam":1tuo0az9 said:
Submariner":1tuo0az9 said:
The Yamaha anodes are all aluminum. I’m not aware that they sell them in any other metal.

As an aside, I am still not sure I am understanding what anode material is used internally on the Yamaha outboards:

https://www.boatzincs.com/YAM67F-11325-01.html

Good thread about this topic.
https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/913291-yamaha-anode-material.html


Thanks again Martin, I have read that thread previously.

If I am simply reading the parts list that RT gave me with my boat, it appears that the Yamaha zincs are aluminum and the trim tabs zincs are zinc. I don't care an awful lot about the kicker transom zinc as it's about 6" above the waterline 🙂 I've also read that a zinc anode will form a non-conductive film immediately if pulled out of the water and dries, which obviously wouldn't make sense on an outboard.
 
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