2800Mile ICW Cruise Completed

B

Bay Ranger

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2009
Messages
87
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Vessel Name
(2012) Bay Ranger
I passed Lucky Fin north of Vero Beach on 3/09/09 and he made me promise that I'd register on the Tugnuts site, so here I am!

My wife and I recently completed a 2800 mile, 6 month cruise in our R-25 hull#43 named BAY RANGER. We left Annapolis, MD on late October, 2008, headed to Stuart, FL, across the Okeechobee to Fort Myers, up to Bradenton Beach,FL where we spent 9 weeks, then headed back to Annapolis arriving in late April. We did not opt for the trailer, so the hull stayed wet the entire time!

We covered some 50 rivers, 40 bays/harbors, 30 creeks, 20 sounds, 20 cuts/channels/canals, and 6 locks during the cruise. We anchored out as much as we could along the way. It was an enjoyable cruise which we will consider doing again. Next time we will probably head for the Keys. We are still speaking to each other after 6 months together on the boat and we found out when we got home that our townhouse had gotten much bigger that we had remembered it!

Starting in March '09 a series of monthly articles on our cruise are appearing in PropTalk Magazine, a Chesapeake Bay-based powerboating magazine. The articles are available at http://www.proptalk.com.

I am happy to answer any question or provide additional details on the cruise to Tugnutters.

Ed from BAY RANGER
 
Sounds like quite a trip - I sure look forward to reading about it. Six months on board? That's great!

Mac
 
GOOD POST ,ED, AS WITH MAC , I AM LOOKING FORWARD TO READING ABOUT YOUR ADVENTURES. THE WEST COAST OF FLORIDA HOLDS PARTICULAR APPEAL TO US. WELCOME TO THE SITE, STEVE AND TINA, HULL 15 [CHRISTINA BEE]
 
Ed,
Glad to see your post. I hope you get a picture album. Your boat was outstanding. First time I have seen that color. It would have been nice to take a break and visit with you awhile that day. I'm looking forward to reading your article. I will have to find that magazine. Better yet, you could give us a real live story right here. You could do it in small increments at your own speed. the Tugnuts could inject a question now and then. Sounds like you had no trouble with your Ranger.
What engine do you have?
As you may have read, we ended our cruise right there in Vero Beach. Henry's house was the last stop, turned around and went back to Tittusville.

Welcome aboard, Hope to hear a lot from you on the site and see some pictures.

All those in favor of Ed telling his story ( right from the beginning) right here on the Tugnuts,........... say Aye! 😀

captd ( Darrel )
 
Aye!
 
captd":2ddqkgf0 said:
All those in favor of Ed telling his story ( right from the beginning) right here on the Tugnuts,........... say Aye! 😀

captd ( Darrel )
Click to expand...

I went to the link for the magazine. The first installment of his trip is in last months issue. The second is in this months issue.....stay tuned for the rest. If he can post them here also it would be great.
 
The first article I did for PropTalk Magazine in March '09 compared the ICW trip on BAY RANGER in '08-'09 with our previous ICW trip on a sailboat. We loved the first ICW trip, but I said I'd never do it again in a sailboat, hence, BAY RANGER came into our lives. Here's the article:

So, here I sit in a marina in Bradenton Beach, FL waiting for cold, cloudly days to tackle the project of comparing this Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) trip with our previous one. But the sun keeps shining and the temperature stays in the high 70s, so I just have t force myself.

My wife Elaine and I first sailed down the ICW in 2002-2003 in a 29' sailboat. We took two months meandering down the ICW's myriad of bays, rivers, creeks, canals, cuts, and sounds stretching from our home base in Annapolis to our destination in Ft. Pierce, FL. It was truly a great experience - one we wanted to repeat. But, if you stay on the ICW and don't go "outside" into the ocean, you must motor or motorsail about 80% of the time with a sailboat. We needed a small trawler that was economical to operate and big enough for both of us. We purchased our 25-foot Ranger Tug, BAY RANGER, from Gratitude Yachting Center in Rock Hall, MD after the 2007 U.S. Powerboat Show in Annapolis.

Elaine and I spent the 2008 boating season as one long shakedown on the Bay prior to our October departure. Our first concern was being abe to carry as many provisions and as much gear (stuff!) as we did on our previous ICW trip. The fears were unfounded. After loading the essentials, we still has lots of room, so we added all the things we had in the wait-and-see pile in the garage.

Three words describe the main difference between the first ICW trip in the saiboat trip and this trip: WARM AND COZY! All along the way on both trips, people kept saying, "It's an unusually cold fall this year!" The first trip, I wore the very same wool sweater, foul weather gear, ski hat, and gloves in Fernandina Beach, FL in mid-December that I wore going through North Carolina in early November! This time, however, my cold-weather gear never saw the light of day, because we were WARM AND COZY in BAY RANGER's heated cabin! Elaine got much more knitting done on BAY RANGER, beause she was warmer and spent no time tending sails. On BAY RANGER, we can sit up high in the light , airy cabin with a cup of coffee and enjoy an expansive view outside. On the sailboat, we were down below with only small portholes to see out.

We motored 6-7 hours at around 6 1/2-7 knots for about 50 mile per day on BAY RANGER compared to about 30 miles per day at 5 knots in the sailboat. As a result, we arrived in Ft. Pierce o Day 46 on this trip, while it was Day 60 in the sailboat (which included a 6-day aintenance delay). Our 110 hp Yanmar diesel used $673 in fuel compared to the sailboat's 27 hp Yanmar which used $129! This time, however, we saved money on ice by having refrigeration and saved additional money in marina costs because we made the trip in less time.

BAY RANGER's shallow 26" draft kept us off the bottom even while crossing heavily-shoaled inlets. The shallower draft also allowed us to stray safely from the magenta line of the ICW on the charts (sometimes intentionally, sometimes not!) without grounding concerns. In some cases, we saved time and distance by setting a shorter course across a body of water that the magenta ICW course suggested. Our shallower draft also opened up anchorages would not have attempted with the sailboat. There was always room for us on the fringe of a crowded anchorage, beause we could anchor in shallower water tha most other boats.

We were also able to pass under 20 bridges beween Norfolk, VA and Bradenton Beach, FL that would have required an opening for the sailboat. BAY RANGER's vertical clearance is approximately 13' compared to 44' on the sailboat. One of the more tense moments of an ICW passage can be waiting in a narrow approach for a bridge to open while experiencing a strong following current. Throw in a group of other boats fighting that same current, all trying to stay back from the bridge and avoiding each other, while staying off the bottom, and it an test your boat-handling skills and your patience. We were delighted to be abe to slip past waiting sailboats in those situation on this trip.

We loved our years as "raghaulers" and we are better powerboaters because of our sailing experience. The most important experiences for us are the same regardless of the boat. Our fondest memories of both trips include beautiful anchorages with awesome sunrises and sunsets and experiencing a wide variety of waterway scenery from large esutaries and sounds to the most remote creeks. A small, close-knit community of boaters, sail and power, experience the ICW each fall. Their southbound destinations are as varied as their vessels. These cruisers bond easily and cross paths frequently as they move south. The common thread among ICW travelers, sail or power, is a safe and enjoyable journey to the prize: an extended, pleasant warm winter stay.

Ed
 
thanks , ED,, LOOKING FORWARD TO THE NEXT INSTALLMENT, STEVE AND TINA [CHRISTINA BEE, HULL 15]
 
Good story Ed... I am an old rag bagger here and our Pearson had a 6 foot draft so I am very familiar with agonizing over water depth and bridge clearance... Currently I am looking for the retirement boat and I am seriously considering the R-25 versus the Tomcat 255.... They both have their strong points...
I recently chartered an AT-34 on the ICW which was a good trip and convinced me of some of the things I have been mulling over in my mind... I decided I don't want to go back onto a larger boat at this time, as I want to travel both coasts rather than be tied to a given area... A trailer boat will fit our needs nicely for trips of a few weeks at a time, allowing the Admiral to get back to our children on a regular basis...
 
Dr O, I certainly won't denigrate the R-25 here or elsewhere, it's a great boat. I bought the TC255 primarily to be able to do 30 knots when I needed to and for the great space in the forward berth. You should ride on both if you possibly can before you decide.

I think in a chop, the ride on the TC may be better and it won't roll as much because of the twin hulls. With the widely spaced twins, it's very maneuverable although would have liked to have that bow thruster a couple of times. The outboard engines give you a lot of flexibility and with the starting problems I've seen on this site with the Cummins, I'm glad I have them. I like the different hull colors on the 25, the only color you can get on the TC is white with different trim. Good luck on your choice, keep us posted.

Charlie
 
Dr.O -

Our boat choice boiled down to a used Nordic Tug 26 or the Ranger 25. We looked at several used Nordic Tug 26s but decided the v-berth was a little too small for us (me!). Also, I'm no mechanic, and the used ones we looked at gave me concern that I might spend more time/money maintaining than cruising.

Coming home from looking at an NT-26 in New England, we stopped at the Trawler Fest in Mystic Seaport, CT. Elaine saw the R-25 and fell in love with it. I was a bit slower to warm up to it, but eventually saw the light. Besides, if Momma's happy ...

We cruise pretty simply so found we could we could easily carry everything we needed for a 6 month cruise on Bay Ranger.

Ed
 
Since the articles on our ICW cruise in PropTalk Magazine are taken from an email journal Elaine maintained to send to family and friends (some boaters, some not) it is pretty general in nature. I have decided to do a separate account with a little more boating details for Tugnuts. It is hard to decide the level of detail, but I have decided to aim these postings at a Tugnut who might be considering an ICW trip for the first time. So, here goes ...

PREPARATIONS

We had the summer of 2008 to take all the shakedown cruises we needed on the Chesapeake to get used to the new Ranger 25. We also had the experience of the previous ICW trip in the sailboat to draw from in our planning. Elaine made lists of things we took on the last trip that we did not need and things we wanted to add this time.

Even though we had the RayMarine C-80 chartplotter this time, we wanted to take paper charts as well. We took Maptech Chartkits on the Chesapeake Bay; Norfolk, VA to Florida; East Coast of Florida and Florida Keys; and West Coast of Florida and Okeechobee Waterway. In addition we took waterway cruising guides covering these same areas. Skipper Bob publishes two essential books on ICW anchorages and ICW marinas. The anchorage book lists anchorages by the mile. In addition to giving directions on how to get into the anchorage, the book rates each anchorage on things like wind protection, currents, scenic beauty, holding and access to shopping. His marina book lists ICW marinas by the mile with a comprehensive profile of each. It also provides mailing addresses and phone numbers, fuel prices, transient rates, do-it yourself yards, and much more. Another nav aid we took is called CHARTTRACKER to the ICW. It is similar to the old AAA TripTiks. It provides an uncluttered strip map and text on each page. Down the side of each page is a grid on which you can check off each ICW marker you pass. I'm not sure that one is still published but not much had changed since we used it on our last trip and our margin notes from that trip were valuable.

We had previously set up all our recurring bills to be paid electronically so we didn't have to worry about any utility, mortgage, insurance, bills, etc. We used one credit card which was paid automatically every month through our credit union. We purchased large pre-paid mailing envelopes and provided them to our willing neighbor. He forwarded mail to us at marinas or post offices along the way about once a month when ever we would send him a forwarding address. As I mentioned, Skipper Bob has all the marina addresses in the back of his book and cruising guides publish addresses of post offices which will hold mail for 30 days for transient cruisers.

We also made sure we had coordinated with our boat insurance company to extend our coverage to include our entire cruising area.

Since we choose to anchor out as much as we can, we carried ten extra gallons of water in two 5-gallon cans. We also carried a 5-gallon can of diesel with us, although we never needed it. These cans rode nicely on the cockpit sole secured to the cockpit railings.

We cruise pretty simply so our everyday clothes fit nicely on a shelf I made to go across the foot of the v-berth. The lockers under the v-berth were filled with extra bedding, shoes, knitting supplies and yarn for Elaine, reading materical, can goods and other non-parishable food items. The quarterberth, or "the cave" as we call it, was used for some "decent clothes", the charts and guides we weren't using at the moment, spare parts, tools, the extra life jackets, etc. Plastic stackable storage containers worked well to keep things organized and accessable. We had enough non-parishable food along so that we rarely had to buy more than meat, fresh produce, dairy products along the way.

In addition to two human crew, Bay Ranger carried one large stuffed mouse named Jacques and one potted, pink geranium called Gerry. Jacques job was (1) write to the grandkids about his experiences on the cruise and (2) look cute. Gerry's job was to brighten the cabin with pink and green and give Elaine something to dig her 'green thumbs' into. Gerry thrived in the marine environment.

Well, the thermostat is lowered, the water heater is turned down, the outside faucets and drained and shut off, and the newspaper has been stopped. It's time to go. We're chomping at the bit! Next time I'll cover the first leg from Annapolis, MD to Norfolk, VA - Mile 0 of the ICW.

Ed
 
Great post Ed. Keep 'em coming...

Charlie
 
My wife and I plan to follow your wake on our first ICW trip from Ocean City, NJ to Key West this fall (mid Oct.). Keep up the posts. The info is fantastic for those of us that haven't made the entire east coast run yet. My wife is particularly interested in the day to day living arrangements in such tight quarters. (i.e. what to bring, how to store everything, how to arrange things in the most convenient way, etc.)

Last summer we went north up to Block Island, Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. This June, right after the Chesapeake c-brats get together in Lankford, we plant on doing the Erie Canal and Rideau Canal up to Ottawa and Montreal Canada. We just retired and plan to do Maine to Florida eventually, but it will take us a couple more years to fill in all the gaps!

Hopefully we'll get to meet you at the Lankford get together in June??

Keep the posts coming, they're great reading!
 
Jon -

Elaine and I enjoyed the article you did on your earlier trip north. I think it was on Gratitude's website. The Hudson River, Erie Canal, Lake Ontario, St. Lawrence River, Lake Champlain loop is one we're considering in 2010 . We'll be very interested in hear details of your June cruise when you cover that territory.

We look forward to meeting you and Marilyn at Lankford. We'll talk more then.

Ed
 
ANNAPOLIS, MD TO HAMPTON, VA (Oct 24-31, 2008)

The planning is done, the packing complete, the party is over, the goodbyes are said, the weather looks good, it's time to GO! We're excited!

We slipped unceremoniously away from our dock the morning of October 24, 2008. What have we forgotten? It doesn't matter, we're underway!

We live on Back Creek in Annapolis, so with 10 minutes from home, we were on the Chesapeake Bay. Winds were E at 12-14kts, waves 1-2ft as we left our familiar hometown landmarks behind. The Chesapeake Bay Bridge, the 3 radio towers on Greenbury Point and finally, Thomas Point were behind us. Commerical traffic was light but we did pass the schooner Pride of Baltimore II headed north under full sail near Sharps Island Light.

Before we knew it, we were 50 miles down the bay near our first night's destination at Solomons Island. We knew were close when we saw an Osprey Vertical Takeoff and Landing aircraft departing Patuxant Naval Air Station. We headed into Mill Creek and dropped the hook. It was good to be underway.

The long range forecast for October 25 turned out to be accurate - 15-20kts of wind, gusting to 25kts. Time to stay put and get the boat a little more organized. Things calmed down on Sunday, so we headed out again. Winds were 5-10kts from the north so it helped push us down the Bay. It was a peaceful run except for the Navy fighters taking off from Patuxant NAS. Navy patrol boats with blue lights flashing quietly ensured that vessel traffic stayed out of the well-marked electronic bombing range in the Bay, south of Solomons.

We passed Point Lookout light at the 8-mile wide mouth of the Potomac River, which is an area that can get pretty nasty where it joins the Bay. Strong currents, weird wave patterns, and a long fetch for the winds can make things challenging. We approached this area with some trepidation because we had our "worst day ever"on the Bay on the last ICW trip south through here. On that trip we ripped a sail and strong winds and waves flipped the inflateable dinghy we were towing at the time. Then the rain and fog rolled in ... you get the picture! This time, however, we passed through the area without incident.

We anchored for the second night in a row on Mill Creek - this time off Virginia's Great Wicomico River. We shared the anchorage with three Canadian sailboats and enjoyed the first of many beautiful sunsets. Later in the evening, every possible star in the sky was reflected in the calm water.

On October 27, we encountered our new "worst day ever" on the Bay! The forecast was for 10-15kts from the north. I figured it would just give us a lively push down the Bay. That was the case at first, but then the winds and waves clearly exceeded the forecast. Normally at 1900 RPMs we'd be doing about 6.5kts, but at one point I glanced at the chartplotter and we were surfing down a rather steep wave at 10.2kts at 1900 RPMs! The autopilot was not responding quickly enough to the wave conditions so I steered manually for a couple of hours. There was really no place to duck into on shore and even if there were, I wouldn't have wanted to get anywhere close to broadside to these waves. I could look out the side window from the helm seat and see waves breaking at eye level! Finally we reached New Point Comfort Light and I could nose our way a little bit east behind the point into the calmer Mobjack Bay where we settled into an anchorage on the Severn River. We slept extra well that night! Those were conditions I would have never have intentionally ventured out into, but sometimes you just get caught and have to deal with it. It renewed our respect for the waters we were crossing.

Strong winds continued for the next three days. There were even gale warnings for the Bay. Needless to say, we stayed snuggly at anchor. We passed the time as we always do in those situations, reading, playing cards, and listening to music and the radio. Elaine dug out the knitting needles and started on the first of many knitting projects on the trip.

Finally, on October 31 - Day 8 of the trip, the storms subsided and we were able to tiptoe out of Mobjack Bay in calm waters and head for the Norfolk area. Leaving Thimble Shoals Light to port, we turned in to Hampton Roads. As we did, a Navy cruiser was heading out into the Atlantic - an impressive site. They need not have warned us, but the ship gave their standard announcement over Ch 16 - "U.S. warship five-six is underway from Hampton Roads toward the Atlantic. All vessels are to stay off 500yds". No problem! Take all the room you want!

The Hampton Roads area consists of Newport News, Portsmouth, Norfolk and Hampton, VA all sharing a large common commercial harbor area. On our previous trip south, we enjoyed both Portsmouth and Norfolk. At the Annapolis Boat Show, we were given a coupon for a free night's stay at Hampton Public Pier so that's where we headed for a couple nights.

So, what ideally could have been a 3-day passage down the Chesapeake Bay turned out to take 8 days! That's the beauty of not having a schedule! One has to expect such delays on a cruise like this, but there is no way to know when they will occur or how long they will last. The more flexibility you have on itinerary, the better.

Next time, we'll pick up at Hampton where we spot a celebrity and survive Trick or Treat Night. Then we'll continue south through North Carolina's Dismal Swamp Canal (which is really not so dismal!).

Your comments and questions are welcome.

Ed
 
HAMPTON, VA TO ELIZABETH CITY, NC - October 31 - November 6, 2008

October 31 was Trick or Treat Night in Hampton, VA. We were not prepared for this event as we had no idea where we'd be on this night. Trick or Treaters came from both other boats at the marina and from anchored boats looking for treats from Bay Ranger. Elaine dug deep into the lockers to come up with treats. I'll bet we were the only boat giving out candy canes!

We remained at Hampton Public Pier on Saturday, November 1 as friends who live in the area were coming by for a visit. It was also Homecoming Day at nearby Hampton University. The homecoming came right down the street in front of the marina. While standing there watching the parade, Biff Henderson, Dave Letterman's sidekick on the Tonight Show came up beside me to watch the parade! I chatted with him briefly. Turns out he's a Hampton University graduate.

The Virginia Air and Space Museum and the Cousteau Society Museum are within a block of the marina and both worth a visit. We also found good food at pubs on old Hampton's main street a couple blocks away.

We fueled up and pumped out before leaving Hampton and we also put the dinghy up on the sport rack. We carried the dinghy on the swim platform coming down the Chesapeake Bay which worked fine, however puting it up top cleared our view astern. This was important to us as we knew we were heading for the Dismal Swamp Canal and other potentially busy narrow bodies of water where good visibility is important.

We crossed the busy commercial harbor of Hampton Roads toward Mile 0. The array of naval ships berthed or drydocked at the naval yard was impressive. Patrol boats patrolled the docks making sure everyone kept their distance from the carriers, cruisers, and support ships that lined the east side of the harbor.

We passed the imaginary line that marks the official start of the ICW near Tidewater Marina. Now you really get the sense that you're underway. The first of many opening bridges to come crosses your path and you have your first VHF radio exchange with the bridge tender. For the most part, they are very friendly, cooperative and helpful.

The ICW is marked in statute miles (SM) on the charts and is referred to that way in all reference guides. So from time to time I'll be referring to SMs as we go along to pinpoint a location. At about SM 7, for example we make a well-marked right turn to follow the Dismal Swamp Canal route. Going straight there would take us down the alternative Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal Route. The two routes meet up on the Albemarle Sound at SM 79. We prefer the Dismal Swamp Canal Route because we think more of the slower cruising boats take this route. The locks which isolate the Dismal Swamp canal can sometimes be closed for various reasons so the guide books list the number and suggest calling the Corps of Engineers
to check on the status. Lock opening schedules are also listed in the guides. Traversing the Dismal Swamp Canal is somewhat dictated by travel times to the locks for set opening times.

At SM 10 we reach Deep Creek Lock. Wen calling the lockmaster, he will respond with whih side he wants us to have bow and stern lines ready for locking through. THe Dismal Swamp Canal locks are relatively small (approx. 300 feet) and locking through is smooth.

The canal itself is the oldest operating artifical waterway in the U.S. George Washington ordered the initial surveying of the land for the eventual digging of the canal. It is a relative narrow, tree-lined, 20-mile stretch of water. On a sunny, calm day in the fall, the autumn colors are reflected in the water on both sides, thereby doubling the beauty. It's magic when a gentle breeze sends leaves floating slowly down onto the water.

At SM 28 we arrive at the North Carolina Visitors Center. It serves both boat traffic and vehicle traffic from U.S. Route 17. It is a fun place to stop. Highway 17 travelers are sometimes amazed to see boats docked at the visitor center and are full of questions about the boats and their destinations.

The docks are free here. There is space for 5-6 boats, but rafting up is expected of the spaces fill up. This is the first place to meet other cruisers headed south. It is fun to compare boats, experiences, expectations, and destinations. Many of the boats we meet here we'll see again and again as we head south. We have made friends here on both our ICW trips which we still correspond with.

We, along with 6-8 other boats, ended up spending 3 days here as coastal forecasts for the area are grim. Volunteers from the Visitor Center drove crews to the grocery to help them cope with the extended stay. Another volunteer from Elizabeth City docks 23 miles down the ICW drove up to advise boaters to stay put. The city docks were in Elizabeth City were full and it was not safe to cross the Albemarle Sound at this time.

With the weather delay, we had time to take advantage of the new Dismal Swamp State Park just across the ICW from the Visitor Center. There is a new swinging pontoon bridge across the ICW to gain access. In addition to a nice nature center, there are miles of marked hiking trails for those looking for a glimple of deer or bear native to the area.

Finally a slight break in the weather came on November 6 - Day 14 and we headed toward Elizabeth City, NC. We passed through the lock at South Mills, through Turner's Cut and down the beautiful Pasquotank River the remaining 23 miles to Elizabeth City.

We anchored in a small cove fust before the city. The forecast for tomorrow looks good to cross the Albemarle Sound, listed in one of the guides as the first of the four most potentially dangerous bodies of water on the ICW.

We'll pick up there next time. Your comments and questions are welcome.

Ed
 
Ed

This is awesome. Thanks so much for sharing your experiences so clearly. We look forward to reading more, as we hope to begin this trip next year.

Sparky
2009 R-25
Starry Night
Virginia Beach, VA 😀
 
This is great Ed, I'm making the trip as you tell it . Thanks
captd
 
ELIZABETH CITY, NC TO BEAUFORT, NC - (November 7-9, 2008)

To take advantage of a good weather window, we didn't stop on this trip south at the cruiser-friendly city docks at ELizabeth City, NC. It is however a place that deserves mention. The free docks there have earned a well-deserved reputatuon by providing the friendliest welcome you'll find anyplace on the ICW. It all started when the late Fred Fearing and his "Rose Buddies" used to present a rose to every female crew member on boats visiting the city docks. Fred has passed away and the roses are no longer handed out, but the hospitality continues with regular dockside welcome wine and cheese parties for visiting cruisers.

We got a 7:30 a.m. start on November 7 to make the bridge opening at SM 51 north of Elizabeth, City. We wanted to beat the restricted rush hour opening times for the bridge. We passed the city docks and turned east toward the Albemarle Sound. There was a slight haze/ fog on the water but we could make out about a dozen other boats ahead of us, which had been holed up at the city docks because of the weather. It is about 30 miles out across the Sound to the mouth of the Alligator River. Winds were light as we passed the blimp hanger near the Coast Guard station. One small blimp was tethered near the bulkhead. The haze/fog obscured the ICW markers for a distance but the chart plotter eliminated the guesswork.

Not long before we turned the corner into the Alligator River, our route merged with the route from the alternate Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal route. By 11:45 a.m. we passed through the Alligator River Swing Bridge at SM 84 with two sailboats. Just before the bridge, we passed the Alligator River Marina. Lots of cruisers who stop there have fond stories to tell of their encounters with Wanda the marina manager or her late husband. Our memory unique to that marina on the last trip was awakening a free Sunday morning paper delivered right to the boat! Then there was the hand dipped ice cream at the combination marina office/mini-mart/gas station/marine store/restaurant.

The Alligator River continues another 18 miles or so until the ICW takes an abrupt turn into the Alligator-Pungo Canal. We had covered 56 miles already today and it was another 28 miles through the canal to the next possible anchorage, so we dropped the hook out of the channel at the north end of the canal. Skipper Bob's anchoring guide had served us well again.

On Novermber 8, we headed down the canal. It is wider than the Dismal Swamp Canal but it has the same tree-lined banks. Last trip we saw several bald eagles flying overhead and perched high in the dead trees, but none this time. There was a parade of 10-15 boats headed south on the canal spread out over 5 miles or so. No one seemed to be in a rush as they enjoyed the 70-degree temperature on this sunny November day. The canal flowed into the Pungo River about 10 miles north of Bellhaven, NC.

Bellhaven is another one of those fun little North Carolina towns worth a stop. There are several good marinas there, but the River Forest Marina features an 1890s Victorian Manor House which serves as the marina's office as well as a hotel/lodge, restaurant, and bar. Pictures line the walls with celebrities of yesteryear who have visited including Burl Ives, Harvey Firestone and Walter Cronkite. They advertise "A World-Famous Buffet Smorgasboard" which has something for every taste.

The Pungo River empties into the Pamlico River which is listed as another of the four bodies of water on the ICW demanding great respect. Winds were favorable so we crossed that 5-mile stretch without incident and slipped into Goose Creek. Three miles down Goose Creek is Cambell Creek at SM 154 where we anchored for the night.

We had another 50-mile day on Novermber 9 as we headed in Beaufort, NC. But first, we had to traverse 20 miles of the Neuss River, which is another of the top four most nortorious bodies of water on the waterway. All of these waters can easily be negotiated in the right weather window, which we had on November 9.

A larger than average group of dolphins, about 10 altogether, accompanied us for a few minutes on the Neuss. They were the first dolphins we had seen this trip. It is always a thrill to see them near the boat, but usually they are in ones and twos or maybe fours and fives, but to see ten was extra exciting.

We hadn't been in a real marina since Hampton on November 2, so it was time to treat ourselves. Besides, we needed fuel, a pumpout, laundry facilities. Some good restaurant meals and some walk-around shore time wouldn't hurt anything either. Beaufort, NC is a good place to enjoy all of that.

We'll pick up there next time. Your comments and questions are welcome.

Ed
 
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