31CB Electrical Source for AquaAlarm Question

[NorCal]

We are getting a new 31CB in a couple of weeks and are extremely excited. We will be keeping the new tug up in Cap Sante marina. Looking forward to meeting fellow Ranger Tug owners.

I am a bit paranoid about losing a raw water impeller with a single engine boat. So one of the first modifications I want to do is add an AquaAlarm to our new boat.

Does anyone know where I can get 12 volts that is switched on when the engine is started?

The new computer controlled engines are a little more complicated compared to the older one with a physical key.
I have the light and two buzzers for notification. One for the bridge and one for the main helm.

Thanks

John Friedrichsen

 

[Scuffy]

I'm going to install a toggle switch to turn power on for the Aqua Alarm. That way just flip the switch then start the engine and your good to go. I don't want to fool around with any of the Volvo voodoo stuff myself. You could come right off the engine start battery for power using a 1 amp fuse. Or what ever fuse the Aqua Alarm people recommend. I can't imagine they draw to much in the way of current.

 

[nzfisher]

The aqua alarm instructions say to get power from the ignition switch which is of course easier said than done. The chances of creating a hazard in a critical piece of wiring sends folks towards the switch solution. I asked Ranger about this and received essentially an "I don't know as we don't do this response". Obviously you only want this device activated while the engine is running. Maybe one of the folks with expertise about wiring solutions can provide a good solution like a terminal powered from the ignition switch schematic for dummies.

 

[knotflying]

Power from the ignition switch was easy on my R-27. I am not sure how the Volvo is wired, but here is what I did on mine. I was able to unscrew and pull the switch out of the panel. Using a voltmeter i was able to determine which lead was powered when the key was turned to the on position. That was the post I used to power the flow switch. I realize the volvo uses a fob to activate, but I would assume that there are electrical connections that provide a similar power source.
The only problem I have with an independent switch is the failure to turn it on before ignition. Hey, people have forgotten to open the thru hull valve and burned up an impeller. You can easily forget the valve and the switch.
As an alternative you may want to get your power from the load side of the engine switch. You definitely won't forget to turn that on if you want the engine to crank. You will hear the annoying alarm until water flows, but at least you are fail safe.

 

[Osprey]

On my R-27 I picked up +12V and ground off the dash terminal block with the +12V going to a new dash mounted Cole Hersee push-pull SPST switch (an M-482 will do, as will others). The second terminal of the switch goes to the +12V terminal on the AquAlarm panel. The dash is made from 3/4 inch thick plywood and this is to thick to mount most toggle switches. The Cole Hersee push-pull switches can easily be mounted to the 3/4 inch thick dash. As best I recall, instructions supplied by AquAlarm make no mention of a suitable fuse rating. I do note that the actual flow switch, mounted if the supply raw water line, is rated for 3A.
Running wires from the flow switch in the engine compartment up the helm station was a major bother.

 

[Scuffy]

If you add a switch to turn on the power to the Aqua alarm you just flip the switch the alarm will sound and you start the engine hopefully getting water flow the alarm shuts off . If you forget to turn the switch off and shut down the engine the alarm will go off to remind you. So I'll use a 3 amp fuse. To each their own but I would rather not add anymore draw to our ignition switch as they probably cost about a gazillion dollars. I'm sure if there was a problem it might be my fault. Thus my motivation to get the alarm power separate from any expensive electronics. If someone wants to wire the Aqua Alarm into the ignition switch for power be my guest.

 

[NorCal]

Thanks everyone for the quick replies.

I guess this is somewhat of a mystery in seeing if there is a way to get a switched 12v source when the engine is running. I will have to ask more questions at delivery and hopefully they have a Volvo guru that might be able to see if such a thing is possible.

I would really like to automate the alarm if possible. Having one less thing to remember is always good. Especially since we have three different locations we can start the engine from.

Thanks again for everyone's insight. If I find an answer I will post the results.

John

 

[Osprey]

NorCal, I note that you want to be able to monitor raw water control from 3 locations: main in-cabin helm, aft station and flybridge. So it seems to me that the installation will involve 3 display flow panels all running off a single flow detector. I suggest you find out if the flow detector switch can handle the current demands of 3 display panels. One to one would be a normal installation. Secondly, I would be reluctant to install a display panel in a wet location such as the aft station and the bridge. Both these locations would be exposed to dew at the very least. The panels are not designed for such locations. Sure, there is some "liquid electrical tape" smeared over the back of the panel, but the connections the installer has to complete are exposed. The front of the "horn" and mute switch would likely be damaged from exposure to water. There is no gasket supplied to seal the panel to mounting surface.

 

[NorCal]

Hi Osprey, Thanks for the tips. I completely agree with you. I am looking to put a noise maker of some kind, in the main cabin and the flybridge. Hopefully we would be able to hear that from the cockpit. I am planning on just having the light in the main cabin as you are correct, it is really not weather sealed. I think if a siren goes off that will be better than a little light. Also, the new design of the flow meter I believe will handle a 3 amp load which is quite a lot for a sensor.

Also, I may have made some headway today on the power source. Apparently there is a switched relay kit from Volvo that can be added to a control panel that is designed for exactly what I want to do. I don't have numbers yet but I am working on it.

 

[DBBRanger]

For what its worth: On my R25, I was able to determine which terminal on the ignition switch was hot during the "ON" mode from the forward compartment behind the helm (not a lot of room, but I could just see the terminals and therefore could touch them with my probe). It turns out there was a wire going from that terminal to the fuel gauge which was much more readily available from the compartment. That's where I connected the 12V power source.

 

[R Baker]

Could you not get power at the alternator?

 

[NorCal]

So I was able to get the power as I hoped. There is a relay harness from Volvo Penta designed for this exact purpose. I am fortunate that since I have the 31 this harness is used to power the circuit for the light that shows the seats in the cockpit are not folded in. Other models may not have the harness but it is something that can be connected to the main gear selector/throttle on all the Volvo Penta models as I understand it. I found a manual online that shows that the relay harness just plugs in to what is already there. When the ignition switch is switched on the circuit is energized and the alarm sounds. Start the engine, water flow starts and alarm stops.

I hope this will be helpful to others looking to do the same thing.

 

[knotflying]

Glad you found the proper connection. To me, the more automatic you make it, the more full proof it will be.