4BY2-180 Electric Fuel Pump Failure

Thanks for the relay part number Mike, do you have the PN for the isolators too? I’m picking up my new fuel pump clamps next week and I’d like to order the isolators while I’m at Shearwater Marine.

Tim
Gratitude
 
Isolator part number is 120650-75450 They are about $15.00 each. Check yours out, I think there my be four. Only two were shot on mine and Gansett's.
 
I had order some isolators from Yanmar (super expensive) and when they arrived they were not stainless steel so I send them back and ordered from MSC , I forget the part number, but there were stainless steel and the proper thread. I also had the isolators break that hold the fashion plate on top of the engine , there were the same size as the ECU.
 
ALICE J":3p1apfpi said:
I had order some isolators from Yanmar (super expensive) and when they arrived they were not stainless steel so I send them back and ordered from MSC , I forget the part number, but there were stainless steel and the proper thread. I also had the isolators break that hold the fashion plate on top of the engine , there were the same size as the ECU.
Fred, explain please. I am assuming the isolator is two threaded studs with the rubber separating them so it reduces the vibration to the ECU mounting plate. MSC had such a product?
 
Yes they do, , just like Yanmar but even cheaper. Part #: 36691152 Mfr Part #: 51159, MSC Industrial catalogue. sorry but I guess that don't carry the ss studs any longer, I ordered them about three years ago ? Available in Metric or American thread.
 
Thanks Mike and Fred I ordered 4 when I picked up my clamps. Looks like a fun job replacing the clamps but it’s got to be done.

Tim
Gratitude
 
The vendor for the fuel pumps on Amazon has restocked his supply. Nine left at $53.99 each.
 
The inexpensive fuel pumps available on ebay or Amazon seem like a good idea as a replacement part or spare but does anyone know if they have the same specifications as the original (ie approx. 73 psi)?

Also has anyone used one on their BY engine and if so how did it perform?
 
Both scross and Knotflying have quoted prices for 4BY electric lift pumps. Could either of these posters specify the pump make and model? Further, I would be interested to read any responses to questions posted by smallchange.
 
According to the OP, the factory fuel pump was made in Poland. Or at least supplied by a Polish company.
These Chinese pumps from Amazon may or may not have the same quality and/or durability as the original pumps. The one I bought on Amazon was shipped from China and sold by a supplier named Rejog4 Auto. The pump was labeled “Kraftstoffpumpe Diesel Fuel Pump 1612675615” which matches the part number of the Polish original. For what it’s worth, the seller has generally positive reviews on Amazon. Shipping time was 9 days.
I tried sourcing the pump from USA BMW online parts dealers without success. Other than the hassle of a difficult install, you could replace this Chinese replacement pump a whole bunch of times for the price of a single Yanmar pump.
I too would be interested in feedback from anyone who has installed this fuel pump.
 
I contacted the BMW auto dealer near where I live in Victoria, BC and they could order the pump #16126756157 from BMW but it would cost me $682.82 Canadian.
When I look at what is needed to remove the ECU I'm not sure I would want to install and a new pump with a short lifespan. Also from the BY-4 manual it appears that the pump needs to output 73 psi and I have not been able to find any specifications on the cheaper pumps mentioned. I have however in my Google searches seen many similar pumps with much lower pressure specifications. That is why I would like to know the specifications of the cheaper pumps.
 
Fortunately I have not had to replace the pump. If I do I will let you know the results. I guess if one wanted to they could always jerry rig a connection to a small tank for the inlet and a pressure gauge on the outlet and fire it up. I would think that flow would be an important factor and not necessarily pressure.
 
Yes a test rig would be required and not too difficult.
These pumps are not positive displacement pumps and the flow rate would vary significantly with pressure.
This IS the question.
 
Hi All- after experiencing the same failure described in this post with a failed fuel relay and socket I am thinking it is time to plumb in a back up pump with a couple of valves and a 12V source that can simply and quickly be switched over to in an emergency. So a couple of questions come to mind is that the only easy place to tee this into the fuel line is before the fuel filters (beween the tank and filters)-- will the filters be OK being pressurized? Thinking of using one of those low pressure pumps described by Captnstu further down in the post. Will the fuel pump through if the original pump is still in line but not running? Just wondering if anyone has actually plumbed one of these in and tested it all out. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks-- Tom
 
I would be reluctant to make such a modification. The relay and an actual failed pump are two separate issues. As much as there have been failures with the relay, it seems that considering the entire fleet, there have been few failures by comparison. I was closely involved with the Caspers Cruisers issue, which precipitated this thread. My opinion is that on his issue it was not a pump failure, but the relay. Yes, there was a mounting bracket failure, but I do not attribute that to a pump failure. We will never know whether it was the pump or the relay because both were changed, but I would put my money on the relay.
In my opinion, the important thing is to reduce vibration of the ECU. This will be accomplished by checking the isolators regularly and replace as needed. On mine, besides replacing the isolators, I repaired the relay receptor and zip tied the relay tightly to the receptor. A bad connection could cause failure of the relay as well. Why the other relays have not been affected is beyond me. Maybe the location of the fuel pump relay happens to be the exact harmonic point? In any event I would not start fiddling with a system that works by relying on other components to function properly just to avoid a rare occurrence. If I were to do anything regarding design I would have mounted the ECU remotely, not on a vibrating diesel engine.
 
Yup those isolators break. I replaced 3 of them on my 2012 R27 ECU.

As an aside there are also similar isolators for the engine covers at the forward end of the engine. The cover with the Yanmar logo takes a 90 deg turn downwards overlapping a bit of the front of the engine. That flap has two isolators (I've seem them called grommets too). On my engine, one isolator was missing the flange bolt and the other had the rubber cracked completely through. How did I notice that?

I was getting the most annoying squeak from the engine while idling and was sure something bad was going to happen. As I leaned on the engine cover to listen for where the squeak was coming from it went away - fastest diagnosis I've made on the boat so far. I was quoted $74 per isolator! Instead I bought a new SS flange bolt for pocket change and used 4200 to bond the two rubber halves back together on the broken one.

One thing I noticed is that the cover isolators seem different than the ECU isolators in that the engine side appears to be welded to a bracket rather than screwing into it. Finally, there is a small pad of rubber that sits on top of the bracket to isolate the top of the cover. That fell off when I removed the cover and luckily landed on the engine stringer and not the bilge. I applied 4200 to that as well for a fix. HTH, GF
 
knotflying":1l3z8e75 said:
...... I was closely involved with the Caspers Cruisers issue, which precipitated this thread. My opinion is that on his issue it was not a pump failure, but the relay.....
While I was going through that fiasco, I checked for continuity through the pump motor windings as suggested by my EE buddy who knows electric motors from 12,000HP on down. There was no continuity. When I got back home, I made a test rig and applied 12V to the pump. It did not run.

I still have the pump. After reading your post, I checked it again for continuity. There is none. Mike, I certainly respect your knowledge of these boats and your willingness to share it, but the pump failed.
 
I was able to check the current draw on that pump and see it runs at 8.1 amps. Not sure what the spec is but this may explain why that terminal heats up running on a continuous basis. Not sure what current runs through the adjacent relays. The ECU isolators look good but I do have the same problem with the engine cover isolators which our dealer says are $155 CDN each- so they can sit on his shelf! Thanks for the responses.


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