8qt+ in bilge

P

palle

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2019
Messages
67
Fluid Motion Model
R-21
Hi all, this is relating to my 2016 CW26. Lately I noticed that the aft bilge pump was running when I got to the boat on several days. The pump didn’t shut off automatically so I flipped the manual pump switch on the dashboard to stop it. The boat was just sitting, and I couldn’t understand where all that salt water would come from. So over 4 contiguous days I emptied the bilge with a hand pump to get the water not picked up by the pump out. Each day when I got to the boat the pump would again be running, but no water being drained out the port stern hole. I got my hand pump and emptied the water remaining below the pump. Finally after 4 days of this, and manually emptying 8qt+ total, I got to the boat this morning and the pump was not running. Could I have a leak somewhere that draws water in when the boat is just sitting still, or did I just accumulate so much bilge water (8qt) over a long time that finally wanted to get out. I know my engine water pump leaks a little bit, but can the entire bilge (throughout the boat) really hold 8qts. Any thoughts is appreciated.
 
Hi Pale,

Yes, I’m sure your bilge can hold 8 quarts (and probably more!). It sounds like your bilge pump is running but not pumping. I have had this happen several times. There is typically check valve in line. In our case that check valve gets sticky and does not always open up when the bilge pump runs. I have always had success by putting a little back pressure in from the thru hole. It has always starting pumping immediately with this technique.

Curt
 
Hi Curt,

Thanks for responding. Wow that’s a lot of water the bilge can hold. That can explain why it took 4 days to get all out. Would the back pressure be done by spraying water into the thru hole associated with the pump output? I.e. water is sprayed into the hole where the pump water output normally comes out?

Thanks,
Palle
 
I used air but water may work as well!

Curt
 
I would check a couple of things. I am not sure that forcing water or air from the thru hull back would help unless the check valve was stuck open and hence water kept flowing back when the pump disengaged. The check valve is merely a rubber flapper. You can access it by removing the screws around the perimeter and clean the rubber flapper and make sure it is pliable. I would also check the impeller on the pump. Over time particles get caught in the impeller and this impedes the ability for the pump to discharge water properly. And then there is always the sensor. The sensor needs to be clean. A dirty sensor can result in the pump not going on and at times dirt can also cause a false sense of water and run the pump continuously.
 
palle":1iqqvd2m said:
Hi all, this is relating to my 2016 CW26. Lately I noticed that the aft bilge pump was running when I got to the boat on several days. The pump didn’t shut off automatically so I flipped the manual pump switch on the dashboard to stop it. The boat was just sitting, and I couldn’t understand where all that salt water would come from. So over 4 contiguous days I emptied the bilge with a hand pump to get the water not picked up by the pump out. Each day when I got to the boat the pump would again be running, but no water being drained out the port stern hole. I got my hand pump and emptied the water remaining below the pump. Finally after 4 days of this, and manually emptying 8qt+ total, I got to the boat this morning and the pump was not running. Could I have a leak somewhere that draws water in when the boat is just sitting still, or did I just accumulate so much bilge water (8qt) over a long time that finally wanted to get out. I know my engine water pump leaks a little bit, but can the entire bilge (throughout the boat) really hold 8qts. Any thoughts is appreciated.
Click to expand...

I'm going to answer this as I understand your question. "can the entire bilge (throughout the boat) really hold 8qts." 8qts=2gallons ,the answer is yes it can hold a lot more then that. There are limber holes ( drain tubes that drain water from bilge areas through out the boat) the tube drain water that leaks into the port and starboard aft storage areas, aft prop tunnel, midship bilge compartments outside the fuel tank cell, and the fwd bilge located where shower sump and depth transducer. All of these area's drain into the engine compartment bilge.



The bilge pump running with no discharge of water out of the bilge pump thru hull fitting could be (1) bilge pump screen plugged ( water can't get to the pump impeller) (2) pump impeller damaged ( pump is not pumping when water level is high enough to activate auto pump sensor) (3) pump discharge hose is plugged ( hose from pump to discharge thru hull is blocked)

"Could I have a leak somewhere that draws water in when the boat is just sitting still, or did I just accumulate so much bilge water (8qt) over a long time that finally wanted to get out"

The water that gets into the bilge area doesn't always come from the seawater. The decks drains if plugged can allow water to enter the bilge, the aft seat on a C26 leaks water into the aft section of tunnel compartment. This area should be inspected, I have found the inside of the plastic storage pan under the seat with water in it draining into the compartment, trim tab reservoir and thruster motor housing wet and water sitting on each side of the tunnel. None of the deck hatch latches in the cockpit are sealed. Rain water and seawater that enters the cockpit some of it can leak thru the latches into the bilge. The packing gland drips, if properly adjusted 3 drips a minute but if not 10 drips a minute or more + you mentioned a leak from your seawater pump. It may not be much but added to packing a little rain water and a pump that is not working properly all that water adds up.

Steps I would do
(1) Turn auto bilge pump to on position.
(2) confirm area around pump is free and clear of debris
(3) use a shore water with a hose and nozzle and pressure spray water from hose around pump area continue to spray until the water level is high enough to activate auto pump sensor and pump turns on. Listen to the pump, and check to see if it is pumping water over board. If not turn with off at the helm, remove the hose clamps from the check valve (C26 it is laying on the port side stringer easy access ) remove the check valve, inspect, plugged, yes, clean, no, turn switch on at the helm, check to see if water is pumping from hose, no, bad pump, yes , blow through hose that goes to the thru hull, clear, check valve stuck, take apart or replace, hose plugged clear hose or replace.
(4) after problem is found and repaired, flush bilge several times with the shore water to confirm proper operation.
(5) Check deck drains for proper draining, seal aft seat, fix water pump leak, inspect packing and adjust if nessasary.
 
8 qts of water in bilge ? 2 gallons and it takes a few days to pump out?
A small bilge pump ( 500 GPH ) should only take about 15 to 20 seconds to pump out two gallons!
I would say your pump is not working properly, due to the check valve or float switch or defective pump! However a bilge pump running and not pumping should of blown the fuse.
If not corrected this is a fire hazard ! Bob
 
On our boat the bilge pump would occasionally air lock. The electronic switch would detect the need to pump and start the pump, but no water would pump. If I pulled the pump out of the housing and released the air bubble from below the pump, the pump cleared any water in the bilge.

I won't say I know the reason for this air locking, but I suspect an interaction between the check valve and the pump - something like air got in the exit line as the pump reached the bottom of what it could pump, and the check valve effectively prevented water back draining to get rid of the resulting air bubble.

We changed to a different bilge pump brand and have not had that problem since.

Good luck -
 
Thank you to everyone who responded, this is my first real boat and learning a lot from your comments. When I got to the boat today the water in the bilge was all clear so seems I got rid of all the salt water finally. The boat had topside service yesterday so unless I have a leak in the fresh water tank the water today was hopefully from the cockpit when it got spooled yesterday.

I followed steps 1-3 suggested by BB (thank you) but still no joy. So based on all your comments I have decided to change the bilge pump to a better quality. Since the current pump is VERY difficult to get to I’m thinking about installing the new pump in a more accessible location and then run a short hose to the bottom of the bilge where the old pump currently is, and install a new sensor there as well. Would that be OK to do?
 
palle":2f6iud35 said:
I followed steps 1-3 suggested by BB (thank you) but still no joy. So based on all your comments I have decided to change the bilge pump to a better quality. Since the current pump is VERY difficult to get to I’m thinking about installing the new pump in a more accessible location and then run a short hose to the bottom of the bilge where the old pump currently is, and install a new sensor there as well. Would that be OK to do?
Click to expand...

Based on this (no joy) I interrupt that as the pump has failed all hoses are clear and check valve checks out in working order. The auto sensor seems to be functioning properly from your description. If the sensor activates the pump because of high water level but the pump doesn't evacuate the water the sensor is functioning properly. Installing a pump at a different location could present issues too. There are not to many options in a C26 except higher up which would require a bilge strainer pick-up, hose and a self priming pump. The pump selection of diaphragm or impeller style both have issues to consider. Diaphragm self priming work well because they can be run dry without damaging the pump but require a inline filter to protect the pump from debris. Filter inspection and cleaning would be required with this pump.Rubber Impeller style self priming pumps work well because of there ability to handle most debris that would be present in the bilge without damaging the pump housing or impeller but what will damage the pump is running it dry. Both are good options but have limitations. To me the best option is replace the original pump with in like kind, different manufacture and different auto sensor. Do a search on Tugnuts on this subject to see what up-graded pump seems to be the best fit. This subject topic has been discussed many times on TugNuts.
 
Thanks BB, your understanding of my test is correct. I will take your advise of replacing pump with like style into consideration since that seems to be what others have done as well. Glad to have you as a fellow CW26 owner since I haven’t yet seen anyone else on the forum with same boat.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

  • Tugnuts.com is the community hub for Ranger Tug, Cutwater, and Solara owners. Since its inception in 2008, the Tugnuts forum has grown into an active and thriving community of more than 9,000 members. It serves as both a meeting place for the best boating community online, and an invaluable archive of information.

  • User menu
Back
Top