A few DC problems

Tugowharf

Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2014
Messages
18
Fluid Motion Model
C-26
Hull Identification Number
USFMLR25111
Vessel Name
Teri May
I have recently put my newly purchased 2012 25RC in the beautiful but sometimes treacherous waters of Harrison Lake in the eastern Fraser Valley in B.C. My shake down cruise was more eventful than I'd hoped. Bottom line, a leak at the stern thruster and battery problems. I hauled the boat out and brought it to a marine mechanic. He went over the entire boat and suggested getting rid of the cheap batteries the boat came with. I put in a 12 volt batteries for the engine and thrusters and replaced the 2 - 12 V house batteries for 2 - 6 volt. All Interstate. He also fixed the leak and went over the entire boat. I put her back in the water and since have had several problem free cruises. Except for a couple of niggling little things that no one seems to be able to help me with. They surfaced after I had the work done. One is the DC voltage meter stopped working. All the switches and lights below it work but the meter remains unresponsive. Also, my radio (entertainment system) stopped working. Lastly, my high water bilge alarm won't function or respond to the test. I checked all fuses to do with the systems and they are all fine. I've had other helpful boat owners (seems they all are) and they are stumped. I called the mechanic and his suggestions led to no results. Any ideas?
 
Tugowharf":4hnkng72 said:
I have recently put my newly purchased 2012 25RC in the beautiful but sometimes treacherous waters of Harrison Lake in the eastern Fraser Valley in B.C. My shake down cruise was more eventful than I'd hoped. Bottom line, a leak at the stern thruster and battery problems. I hauled the boat out and brought it to a marine mechanic. He went over the entire boat and suggested getting rid of the cheap batteries the boat came with. I put in a 12 volt batteries for the engine and thrusters and replaced the 2 - 12 V house batteries for 2 - 6 volt. All Interstate. He also fixed the leak and went over the entire boat. I put her back in the water and since have had several problem free cruises. Except for a couple of niggling little things that no one seems to be able to help me with. They surfaced after I had the work done. One is the DC voltage meter stopped working. All the switches and lights below it work but the meter remains unresponsive. Also, my radio (entertainment system) stopped working. Lastly, my high water bilge alarm won't function or respond to the test. I checked all fuses to do with the systems and they are all fine. I've had other helpful boat owners (seems they all are) and they are stumped. I called the mechanic and his suggestions led to no results. Any ideas?

Hello Tugo,

I do not have a 25, but on my 21EC, the stereo has an IN-LINE fuse back behind the stereo in the jumble of it's associated wiring. I'd check THAT fuse in addition to the one in the switch panel.

Can you get BEHIND the DC panel with the non-functioning voltage meter? You need to check the wire connections which supply the meter. If you can't access then remove the screws and pull it out. You will need a Volt/Ohm meter (VOM) for testing where you do/don't have DC power.

Using the VOM, you should be able to determine WHERE the DC power is interrupted in the HW Bilge alarm circuit.

Fair Winds and Fuctioning DC,

/dave
 
Hi Dave:

I checked the fuse right away and it's fine. I haven't tried to get behind the DC panel. I'll try to pull it out. I'l also have to pick up a volt meter.

Thanks for the Tips:

I'll let you know how things work out.

Peter
Canada
 
Regarding the volt meter, there is a line that goes to each battery bank that is fused. When the battery replacements were done I bet they forgot to reconnect the lines. The rule of thumb is start where you last did something before things got screwed up.
 
I would really take a hard look at the things you changed before starting to tear apart things that you didn't touch. Possibly a connection is loose or dirty..
Best of luck
 
Two six volt batteries are in series.
Is the wire running forward to the voltmeter at the helm connected to the positive on the middle point of the two batteries, instead of the positive on the top battery?
Same deal would make the bilge pump alarm inoperative - a critical item! (and the other issues)
Just a thought.

Finally, on the mechanic and 'suggestions' - he broke it, he needs to fix it :roll:
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I like the idea of starting back at the battery bank and checking for fuses or poorly reconnected batteries. Makes a lot of sense. Also, you're right about the mechanic. I'll be dropping it off for him to have a look at once I get her back out of the water. Thanks again.
 
the single most valuable tool in my dc troubleshhot arsenal is a Fluke ac dc clampon v o meter. one can trace a broken wire by merely clamping the movable jaws around a wire and reading the amps (current flow) in the wire. move the clamps along the wire and when amps go to zero you have found your break. i bought this meter when my dealership could not find out why the rear backup lihts on our rv would not light causing it to fail inspection. it took me 1 /2 hour with the dc clampon.

i have become very popular on my dock after purchasing this item... :|
 
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