About to be a New Owner R21-EC

WDMD

Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2019
Messages
6
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Hello TugNuts
My wife and I are very excited to have our offer on a 2012 R21-EC accepted pending inspection.
She has been owned and maintained by a marina owner and has less then 200 hours.
We will be viewing her at an indoor storage location this Saturday.
Does anyone have any advise regarding what we should look for during the inspection.
We have the option of paying for a survey if we are unsure about something.
Thank you in advance for any guidance.
 
Open all access ports in the floor and visually check for loose or damasged parts. Especially the steering gear in the rear. Open and close all through hull valves.visually check the prop shaft and see if it looks centered in that bearing and that there is no damage. Opena and close all,windows, hatches and ports ensure alll latches are working. Verify all screens are present on all hatches and ports.
Hard to inspect engine as it should be clean and look brand new. Belt should be tensions properly. You should take a volt meter and at least test batteries , should be close to 12.6 volts. If winterized the negative lines should be off. If you want to test radio and vhf you would need to connect battery.
Clean, smells good, fabric clean, stain free so no water leaks etc.
Hope that helps!
Then when you get it home phone me and we can play with it!
John
 
Good luck on your purchase! And thanks John for this helpful list- We share the excitement of becoming TugNuts as we too have an accepted offer on an EC21 pending survey and sea trial once it stops snowing. I will print this off and take it with us to the sea trial and the survey and make sure everything is covered. The surveyor is not familiar with tug but we assume marine surveyors know the basics. We once purchased a boat from a reputable dealer in Seattle. During the sea trial we did not have a surveyor on board and so we did not know what to look for. The dealer told us that it was their policy not to take the boat above a certain speed due to liability and so the motor was not thoroughly tested. It had a newer 50 HP Mercury 4 stroke motor so we had to surveyed before purchasing and the surveyor performed a dry land survey. Overtime we tried to go above 15 knots the overheat alarm would go off. A friend suggested a reputable marine store in Olympia that did repairs. They took it the boat out on Puget Sound to take the motor through the paces and discovered our fuel line was too long. For very little, they shortened the fuel lines and the motor worked fine so I can't stress enough the sea trial portion to see how everything works under real life conditions.
 
Shangie":2gehaqkd said:
I can't stress enough the sea trial portion to see how everything works under real life conditions.

This advice is golden!
 
Thanks John-We were hoping you would reply.
We feel fortunate to have an experienced R21 owner living close by!
Doug
 
Does the 2012 have the Volvo-Penta? Not sure what year the switch was made.
 
We are in Toronto, so not too far. Did you buy privately or from Lefroy? At the boat show Paul mentioned they had a couple for sale. If they’d had them last year we would have bought used, but it was sweet to take delivery of a brand new boat. The hit of depreciation tempers the temptation of two-foot-itis.

If you need canvas work, we had a great experience with Canadian Yacht Tops.
 
A couple of items I would check:
-Hold the propeller and lift up and down and side to side to check for play in the bearing. Should be no movement or very minimal play with only 200hrs.
-Rotate the propeller by hand. Should rotate with ease. Hold the shaft in front of stuffing box and rotate. It will not be as easy as rotating from the prop but it still should rotate fairly easily. If it's hard to rotate then alignment to engine/tranmission may be off a bit. Again, if it was done right on installation there should be no issues with only 200 hrs.
-Rotate wheel at helm to see how freely the rudder moves. On mine I can grab the rudder itself and swing it side to side.
-Check all anodes including the little one on the bow thruster.
-Rotate prop on the thruster by hand.
-If the battery is hooked up, check that bilge pump gets power. A quick flick of the switch at the helm will show if it engages. Owner should also be able to demonstrate to you that the auto sensor and high water sensor works.
-Check that all light,,,navigation, cabin lights etc work.
-Cabin water pump, macerator pump, heater etc can be quickly flicked on and off to see that they have power. Probably will not know if some of these items are working until you can run them properly.
-Good overall visual on the hull to check for damage.

There's probably a much longer list that any of the other owners can add too but it's a start. I have the Volvo-Penta engine so can't comment on the Yanmar.

With less than 200 hours I would not expect to find too many issues if the normal maintenance schedule was followed.
 
I have a 2014 21EC. They're a great little boat. I'll skip the items already mentioned. They're good advice.

Be sure to look at all the hoses and see if any are rubbing or chafing. When I got my 21 it had just over 130 hours and there were already several spots where hoses running over sharp edges were beginning to chafe. It's not a deal killer by any means and easily fixed by fastening anti chafe material on the trouble spots. I use old pieces of inner tube cut with scissors, trimmed to an agreeable looking shape and fastend with tie-wraps.

Pay particular attention to the heater hoses where they run under the cabin floor. A dental mirror and a good flashlight help see the bad spots.

The fuel hoses should be inspected closely. Make sure the clamps are tight and, again, look for rubbing and chafing. Mine needed quite a few spots taken care of but it's not a major chore.

Check the bilge pump. Pull the pump fuse first so it doesn't come on accidently while you're working on it. In a 21 everything goes to the bilge...dog hair, fish scales, pieces of fishing line and anything else small enough to flow through the deck screens. Pull the motor portion of the pump and check for any foreign matter in the pump base and for things wound around the motor shaft.

Look at the boat in good light. Dings in the hull sometimes don't show up well if the boat is inside. A few scrapes and scratches are to be expected but cracks, obvious repairs or recently repainted spots are a caution flag.

Check all the railings, they should be firmly affixed with no slop. A lot of people tie their fenders to the railing and over time if they're placed wrong they can stress the attachment points. Again, look for dings, scrape marks, or signs of recent replacement. Same thing with cleats and chocks. Make sure they're bedded firmly

In the cabin, look inside all the cabinets. Look for signs of water ingress or stains from boat keeping supplies stored there. Check the refrigerator. In the cabinet next to the refrig reach around behind the unit and check for mold or things that have gone adrift from that cabinet. I found a couple of small tools and some pieces of electrical wire in the space behind the refrig.

Pull the bunk cushions and check for mold. While you have them up check the compartments under them for cracks and signs of water ingress. Check the bow-thruster, it should be firm and not wabbling around in it's mount. Pull the cover plate for the anchor gear locker and check for water. It's supposed to drain from an outlet on the outside starboard bow but it doesn't always empty completely.

I'm sure other 21 owners will chime in with more ideas. Good luck with your purchase.
 
Check that the windows slide freely through their entire range of motion.
 
Thank you to everyone for your advise.
All suggestions have been documented into a check list
 
The suggestions so far have helped you develop a good list. One important detail to check, is the impeller. With only 200 hours on what I assume is a fresh water Yanmar, some owners would not have changed it. The fact that it is 7+ years old would, however, warrant changing for sure . It is such easy access on the Yanmar that some people just check it and lube it when winterized.......but impellers harden and fracture with age. Better safe than sorry......overheating kills engines...
Also check the service records to make sure fuel filters are fresh.
Then start the countdown until the thaw......enjoy......
 
Our inspection and sea trial is tomorrow and we too have made a list from these answers. If anyone can think of anything else, please post. And thanks everyone who posted.
 
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