AC. Jump

[Jfrano]

So I want to make the AC panel with the water heater and ice maker have power when the engine is running , like the microwave panel next to it. How do I do that?

 

[iggy]

Have you watched the power management video? If not, I would if your not up on D.C. and A.C. loads.

To put it simply, its easy to do if your familiar with A.C. wiring. But keep in mind that most Microwaves run at 2 to 4 minutes with a load of about 1000 watts. The water heater load is only 750 watts, only 3/4 of the microwave load. But the kicker to this, you will need to leave it on for at least 30 minutes if not longer. Now thats a total of 32 amps in that 30 minute period never mind anything else that you are currently using needs to be added in.

I take it that you have an outboard so your not heating of the engine like the diesels do. So looking at the excell sheet your engine running at (and from the video) 3/4 throttle to output 70 amps. I think this will be too much of a strain on the engine and batteries. Thats way, I think they don't wire the boat up that way.

I think you would be better off buying a 2000 watt inverter/generator. There in the $450 to $600 range and at the same time charge up your batteries.

 

[Matty]

I agree. If they did not think it was an issue they would have had one panel. They have the two to try and separate a few high amp appliances that might make sense to use only when on shore power or an adequate generator.
Does not mean you could not do what you are attempting.
Kind of like there is no reason you could not have the Parallel switch on at all times. Yes you can. No you should not. Unless you want to unknowingly drain all the batteries.
While I could probably do it in about 15 minutes by using a jump wire I have no clue what potential damage that could do so I would 1) watch the video 2) wait for a response from either the factory or someone very familiar with all of the wiring.
Also...see topic “302 crossover switch” lots of good comments on how others have explored what you want to do.

 

[knotflying]

So I want to make the AC panel with the water heater and ice maker have power when the engine is running , like the microwave panel next to it. How do I do that?

Don't you have an inboard? If so the engine will heat your water while it is running, no need to have that run off the inverter panel. Another question is, do you have a generator? I would assume you can run your generator and power up your ice maker while traveling.

 

[BB marine]

The AC panel to inverter is separated for a reason as already discussed. The Blue Sea AC breaker panels are designed to separate high amperage draw items from lower amperage draw items. The reason, to protect the inverter ( most have built in protection) and to protect and preserve the longevity of the batteries and alternator. All of which can be comprised if high amperage draws are not monitored when using the inverter. A boat manufacture must make equipment user friendly and "foul proof". None of us have a complete understanding of all the equipment on board. Some are stronger in areas some are not. Think of all us Tug and Cut owners as "jack of all trades but masters of nothing" That is how the manufacture has to think too. For someone to post exactly how to jump the panel would be difficult to do because there are so many variations in the electrical systems, inverters, panels, shore power inlets, rotary switches...... The panels are set up by Blue Sea and Fluid Motion wires them as per design. I will say it can be done, I did it and I will say It required a jumper lead. It is up to the Tug owner to figure out the proper way to install it if he or she has the ability, or have a ABYC certified electrician set it up properly.

This is a example of a panel schematic in a Ranger R31 R29 which would require more than a jumper wire to power the additional panels. It can be done but it is completely different from the panel in my C26 or C28.

download/file.php?id=731


Reasons for doing it : hot water heater, stove, ice maker if outboard powered. If inboard powered electric stove, ice maker. Hot water heater is not necessary there is a heat exchanger in the hot water tank that heats the water from the engine coolant. What if you're anchored? You would still have to run the engine to charge the batteries when the water heater AC is on. If the engine is running to charge the batteries for 1/2 hour its going to heat the water any way.

I did make the complete panel powered through my inverter. I have never used it to heat the water. I can but I have never found it necessary. I have an all electric boat we wanted to be able to use the stove while cruising. I didn't want to carry another propane camper stove because I felt there were safety risks there too. I also wanted to be able to circulate air in the cabin while cruising (via marine air unit using fan option. I have a plastic engraved sign near the panel with instructions that all breakers must be off when using the inverter. Use one breaker at a time is required while using the inverter. Over kill probably but there is always something going on when cruising and forgetting what is on and how much is on is easy to do.

Example outlets on crock pot cooking. Use the stove turn stove breaker on turn outlet breaker off. Done with stove, breaker off, outlets on, fan on, outlets off, Having the option for complete shore power use through an inverter on a small boat with a small amp hr capacity battery bank limits use 200 ah to 400 ah. This is the reason the boats are wired the way they are.

I will admit if I had an ice maker I would want to have it usable while cruising. I'm surprised it is not in the circuits that are powered off the inverter. The average ice maker would require about 500W while operating. It would not be operating at that capacity all the time. I would talk to the factory team or have a ABYC electrician take a look at your options.

 

[Jfrano]

Yes I have the inboard . What happens with the ice maker with its current wiring ; only powered when shore or generator, it becomes practically useless. So on shore you’ve built up ice, then you get underway and the ice maker is no longer powered (not going to run the generator for hours to keep ice), as a result some amount of melting occurs. Back on shore power you then end up with a big blob of ice. So if I can rewire that breaker only and not the whole panel would. Even even better solution .

 

[BB marine]

I posted an wiring schematic to my previous post. The easiest way to accomplish adding the ice maker to your inverter circuit would be to exchange an outlet breaker for the ice maker. Results would be one section of the boat would not have an outlet powered by the inverter but the ice maker would be powered thru the inverter. Pick which outlets get used the least. That is an easy change over. just a suggestion!

 

[iggy]

Yes I have the inboard . What happens with the ice maker with its current wiring ; only powered when shore or generator, it becomes practically useless. So on shore you’ve built up ice, then you get underway and the ice maker is no longer powered (not going to run the generator for hours to keep ice), as a result some amount of melting occurs. Back on shore power you then end up with a big blob of ice. So if I can rewire that breaker only and not the whole panel would. Even even better solution .

Why not take the Ice out, put it in the freezer of the fridge. At 500 watts your putting a good load on your whole system.

My friend bought something like this. https://files.bbystatic.com/0evHWfBQ7Ko ... 539ae2.pdf

Uses 200 watts and makes ice in 6 minutes.

 

[FWTMD]

One of my questions was answered weeks ago on another thread. The ice maker in the cockpit has substantially more power draw, apparently, than the fridge. The freezer option for the cockpit draws the same as the fridge. So you can get a freezer and fill it with cube trays, or steaks. You pick. For me that makes more sense.

 

[knotflying]

Yes I have the inboard . What happens with the ice maker with its current wiring ; only powered when shore or generator, it becomes practically useless. So on shore you’ve built up ice, then you get underway and the ice maker is no longer powered (not going to run the generator for hours to keep ice), as a result some amount of melting occurs. Back on shore power you then end up with a big blob of ice. So if I can rewire that breaker only and not the whole panel would. Even even better solution .

Yeti for ice. Fill the sucker up full with ice and it will last for days without using any amperage. A fairly simple and easy solution.

 

[iggy]

One of my questions was answered weeks ago on another thread. The ice maker in the cockpit has substantially more power draw, apparently, than the fridge. The freezer option for the cockpit draws the same as the fridge. So you can get a freezer and fill it with cube trays, or steaks. You pick. For me that makes more sense.

Where does the water for the ice maker come from. I don't have one but I was told from the water tank on board 😱 .

 

[CaspersCruiser]

Yeti for ice. Fill the sucker up full with ice and it will last for days without using any amperage. A fairly simple and easy solution.

That is my solution for ice as well— a 20 quart Yeti “Roadie”. Holds plenty of ice and easy to store and easy to carry to for “docktails”.

 

[FWTMD]

Where does the water for the ice maker come from. I don't have one but I was told from the water tank on board 😱 .

Let's not go there, about using the tank water for more than a wash-down. 🙂 But its there to be consumed. I dread having to defend that concept with my wife.

I still like the advice about using vodka in the tank. 🙂