Advice needed on adding 12 volt power socket in cockpit

scross

scross

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2015
Messages
2,098
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Hull Identification Number
FMLC2831A717
Vessel Name
R-25 Classic - Sold
MMSI Number
367719470
Need advice on how to install a 12 volt cigarette socket receptacle in the cockpit of our RT -25 Classic. Most (all?) of the newer boats have them as standard equipment. I would like to install the fixture on the port side of the bait well and run the wires down to the battery compartment on the aft port side. I do not want to run wiring all the way to the helm if possible.
One of my many weak areas is designing electrical systems. I can follow instructions however. I know this 12 volt socket will need to be fused. I will not be running anything that requires high amps off this socket.
I am assuming 10-12 gauge wiring will be more than sufficient for this short 6-8 ft run. I have sent Richard at Parts@RT an e-mail asking which brand of socket RT uses in the current production. I want this socket to be completely watertight when not in use.

Here are my questions:
What size and speed of fuse is appropriate for this type of circuit? (Guessing fast 2-5 Amp fuse)
Is 10-12 gauge wiring appropriate?
I was planning on connecting the fused circuit wires directly to one of the house battery’s terminals - is that OK?
Does this circuit need an ON/OFF rocker switch as well?
Is there anything I’m missing here?

Thanks in advance for the assistance.
 
scross":3euxyyxa said:
Here are my questions:
What size and speed of fuse is appropriate for this type of circuit? (Guessing fast 2-5 Amp fuse)
Depends on what you are going to be connecting to the socket. How much current that item is going to draw.
Is 10-12 gauge wiring appropriate?
Depends on what you are going to be connecting to the socket. How much current that item is going to draw.
I was planning on connecting the fused circuit wires directly to one of the house battery’s terminals - is that OK?
Yes it is okay. The fuse needs to be as close to the battery as reasonable. Remember the fuse protects the wiring, not what you have connected to the circuit. That is why the fuse size and wire size are interrelated.
Does this circuit need an ON/OFF rocker switch as well?
Need switch, no, but it is good practice.
Is there anything I’m missing here?
Just what is the maximum current draw of what you are going to be connecting to the socket, that will determine/define needs for everything else.
Thanks in advance for the assistance.
Click to expand...
 
Will be using for i-phone charging and 8 watt led light. NOT running things like 12 volt hair dryer or small air compressor. Nothing rated at more than 3.5 total amps draw at 12 volts.
 
Hi Al,

RT uses either SeaDog or Blue Seas outlets. For charging an iPhone you can skip the 12volt outlet and go straight to a USB outlet. Much more convenient and eliminates a USB adaptor. You can also buy a combination 12 volt cigarette plug with 2 USB sockets for about the same price if you want more options. I added a couple of these this winter in the V-berth on each side. If you still want to go with a 12volt socket you might as well use the wire size that supports the socket rating. You never know what folks will plug in and the cost and effort is essentially the same. The socket probably comes with a pigtail. It is simplest to use the same wire size as the pigtail and use a fuse with a rating the same or less than the socket and you should be good. No need to include a switch for a plug you can remove quickly.

Regarding water tightness. None of these sockets are totally watertight even if the cover is pushed in. Best to mount them in an area where there will not be any spray. In the cockpit liner fairly high under the gunwhale is good. The bait well sounds fairly protected if you are not using it for bait!

Curt
 
Thanks Curt!
I’m looking at a combo receptical (cigarette receptical and dual USB) so we can charge iPhones using the twin USB ports and a cigarette lighter plug for the 12 volt 8 watt LED fishing light we have. Since we don’t have underwater lighting, we think this $25 1,000 lumen fishing light may mimic the $$$$ underwater lighting system in the newer boats.

We don’t have cockpit speakers either so we bought a Bluetooth internal battery powered speaker good for 12 hours. But we need to keep the iPhones & iPad powered up to use with the speaker. When on the hook in remote areas we still want some entertainment in the evenings!

Based on your comments and more research I think I’ll be using a 10 Amp blade fast fuse close to the battery and use 12 or 12 or 14 gauge wiring depending on what the fixture uses. The location of this outlet will be more subject to rain and dew than salt spray.

Thanks again to Curt and ixlr8 for the advice!
 
Al,

Consider running your wires to the port forward locker and using the factory fuse panel closest to the center of the boat. On our boat, an R27 Classic, there were unused fuse sockets on the panel to which we have connected ad ons.

Barry Thompson
 
Thanks for the suggestion Barry!
To be honest, I’m not familiar with a fuse panel near the middle of the boat on the port side. Will get the manual out and review. Is it in the cave? I know there is not a fuse panel in any of the cockpit area lockers.
 
If you use 10 amp fuse, you will need to use a 14 or 12 awg wire, depending on how far you are from the power source. Farther from the power source, the larger wire you will need to use.
It sounds like you could use a 5 amp fuse which would only require a 16 or 14 gauge wire.
If you are pulling power from a battery that is near to the connector, then the smaller wire will work. If you are pulling power from the fuse block near the helm, you should go with the larger wire.
 
scross":1axsvtwj said:
...To be honest, I’m not familiar with a fuse panel near the middle of the boat on the port side. Will get the manual out and review. Is it in the cave? I know there is not a fuse panel in any of the cockpit area lockers.
Click to expand...
I also have a 2009 R25 and there is no fuse panel anywhere other than in the helm area. The factory wired multiple optional devices directly to the batteries/buss with in-line fuses.

That is one of the first things I changed on our boat by mounting a small fuse panel in the port lazarette adjacent to the on/off switch for the thruster battery and re-landing those miscellaneous loads there.
 
I would suggest you run the heaver wire with the larger fuse. The cost is minimal and why not be prepared so you can run something bigger if you want. I ran directly to the battery with heaver wire and a larger fuse and I use mine for our freezer when not connected to shore power, as well we have an air pump to fill our floating chairs.
 
I can't say that Ranger did this when building the 25 Classic but it may be worth a check. In my C26 there are several empty unused circuits in the fuse panel. All have wires going to them but the accessories are not on board. Example, I don't have a macerator installed. The wiring is there for it, fuse, switch, everything to electrically install. I used this circuit to power my fuel transfer pump. I fuse protected it according to the pump manufacture. I don't have down riggers installed but the boat came wired for them port and starboard side. I installed 12v receptacles in the cockpit using these 10 gauge wires and fused accordingly. There are many circuits not being used in my C26. I look at the fuse panel, check the wire color , look at the accessory ,if I don't have the accessory installed and the wire size is large enough I search the area that the installation would be and now have a power source. The C26 and C28 have the same wire harness so all wire runs in the cockpit are slightly longer then needed in the C26. This procedure has allowed me to do extra 12V installs without running any extra wire and all accessories are tied into one of the main fuse panels. Just a thought.
 
Thanks for all the info guys!

My 2009 RT-25 Classic is wired like Northern Focus's 2009 - no fuse panel anywhere other than in the helm area. The factory wired multiple optional devices directly to the batteries/buss with in-line fuses.

The helm area fuse panel does have spare positions but that would mean running 20+ ft of wiring all over the cabin area which I prefer not to do. Much simpler and cleaner to just run the 4-6 ft. to the batteries/buss area and connect there.

Thinking about using the Blue Sea Systems 4353 or the new 4363 dual outlet with circuit breaker switch.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AYOSD50/?c ... _lig_dp_it

Since this is a "BelowDeck" item, I'll call them on Monday to confirm water resistance and differences/availability of the brand new 4363 unit. Their brochure shows the 4353 installed on the dash of a ski boat. Looking to use 12 gauge wiring which is the same as used on the 4353 and Blue Sea in-line blade fuse holder. Still leaning towards a 10A fuse since the 4353 is rated at 16A and the 12 gauge wire will support over 10A for my short 6 ft. run.

I'll post photos in my album of the completed install in a couple of weeks. It was snowing outside just a few minutes ago!
 
FYI...
Looking at my R29 CB's Owner's Manual I note that all the 12v outlets have a 20 amp fuse. The down rigger 12v outlets have 40 amp fusses.
 
Spoke to Blue Sea Tech support and heard back from Richard at RT this morning.

RT currently uses Sea Dog components for 12 volt outlets (426113-1) and USB charging ports (426515-1).

Blue Sea Systems does not recommend using their BelowDeck 4353 combo USB/socket panel in the cockpit. They are close to releasing a replacement for the 4353 with much better water sealing for use in sheltered areas of the cockpit. The new component is the 4363 and should be available in the next several weeks. While having a better weather seal, Blue Sea does not recommend spraying the 4363 unit directly with water during a wash down.
 
Nice! I also put fuse boxes next to the batteries and changed out the inline fuses. I also put a fuse box in the glove box as well.
 
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