Air Compression Winterizing Device

AKSTEVE70

Member
Joined
May 23, 2025
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11
Fluid Motion Model
R-29 Classic
Winterizing my 2012 R29 for the first time and would like to avoid RV fluid in the potable system if possible. Has anyone used or does anyone know if the "winterizing device" will work on older RangerTugs like mine to "blow out" residual water after draining the systems? Do people have a preference of one approach or the other when winterizing. Thanks in advance!!
 
I don't see why it wouldn't work. The air compressor connects to the fresh water pump and should clear out everything from that point forward. BTW, the hot water heater also has a drain and like the faucets you would have that have that open to move water out.
 
We used the factory recommended air process last year on our 2023 R27 and it was easy and effective. I think was painfully methodical and it took only 3 hours. I only used pink to flush the A/C and washdown pump, as well as holding tank.

To flush the A/C and washdown pump, I put a hose bib on a spare strainer bowl. I then connected a large bucket with hose to allow the pink to flow.

In my opinion after owning several boats, the air process is better.
 
I used a shop vac in reverse last fall and it worked great. I disconnected a few strategic fittings and pretty much cleaned out all the water. Used the pump first to empty the tank and then connected the blow side of the vac to the fresh water inlet hole to clean out the rest.
The relatively mild pressure but high volume of the shop vac was perfect.
 
I used antifreeze for years. Past two winters I blew it down with my little shop compressor. I disconnect the inlet/outlet of both the water pump and the water heater to make sure they get blown out thoroughly. The tubing used in the older boats is fairly resilient if a bit of water lays in a low spot. Metal parts and plastic fittings are the worry. First time an ounce or two of water remained in the shower faucet and destroyed it. Couldn't figure out a reliable way to blow that low point out so last winter I poured a few ounces of antifreeze down the shower hose and that worked. That's on the downstream end of the system so didn't end up with any residual taste in the water. Another spot to be sure of is the check valve on outlet of the pump. You can't blow backward through it so have to be careful that residual water doesn't settle in it after blowdown. I just prop it up so if any remaining water does pool it's in the tubing where it's harmless.

It's doable and a lot less hassle than the antifreeze. Just be thoughtful about making sure you've emptied the system completely.
 
Thx everyone for sharing your experiences & tip…very helpful & much appreciated!!
 
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