Air Cond. water pump.

jimbeam

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Messages
173
Fluid Motion Model
C-248 C
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2545G708
Vessel Name
waite & sea
When I turn on the AC on my R25 the unit turns on but no water discharge.I checked that the thru hull was open and water comes out the strainer but difficult to check if water is being pumped to the AC unit. Any ideas? I was thinking of taking the discharge hose off the pump and sticking a hose in it to see if blocked. Someone mentioned air pocket but I don't know how to bleed the system.
Jimbeam
 
Your hose idea is exactly how you would get rid of any air in the system. This will also tell you if you have an obstruction. Of course be sure strainer is clear and seacock open. Had the issue last week because the a/c momentarily kicked on while boat was on the lift and out of the water.
To be clear you do this at the raw water strainer. Not the other end.
 
Its very easy to bleed. Fill a glass or 8 oz container with water. Remove the strainer cover. Pour the water in the strainer. Cover on, turn air unit on. Make sure thru hull seacock is open. I have to do this any time I pull the boat out of the water and relaunch.
 
On my R25, I have had the same problem. Since the strainer is mounted on its side, I am not sure how to fill the bowl and reinstall as Brian suggested. What works for me is to reach down to the strainer bowl in front of engine and open cover (ccw turn) just enough to get it to leak. This will let some air out and fill the bowl with water. Re-tighten bowl and start AC. If it does not prime, cycle it on and off. Usually one or two tries and it takes off. Now if I could just remember to close the sea water intake before putting it on the trailer :roll:
 
You also should check the discharge opening(s). Here in the panhandle we have what’s called “grass or straw wasps”. Every opening on my boat was clogged with wasp nest debris including the AC discharge and the bilge opening and it was not easy removing the clog. I have to cover all openings with tape to keep them out. What a pain! They don’t sting but they are a menace. However most likely you have air in your pump line. I don’t know why but it’s very difficult to find a self-priming pump.
 
PanaSeaAh":ksf8jswz said:
On my R25, I have had the same problem. Since the strainer is mounted on its side, I am not sure how to fill the bowl and reinstall as Brian suggested. What works for me is to reach down to the strainer bowl in front of engine and open cover (ccw turn) just enough to get it to leak. This will let some air out and fill the bowl with water. Re-tighten bowl and start AC. If it does not prime, cycle it on and off. Usually one or two tries and it takes off. Now if I could just remember to close the sea water intake before putting it on the trailer :roll:

Your installation of the strainer is different and also questionable ( the strainer cover should be facing up). Your method of priming is correct and the method of priming I use for the main engine strainer when I launch (except cover is facing up). I usually forget to close seacocks when loading on the trailer.

The installation of the air unit strainer mounted in my C26 is 4" above the water line. I assumed that was common for all Fluid motion boats. My boat being a FRIDAY Quality Control production may be the only one that has the strainer installed incorrectly above the water line. It is difficult to get to but my method is the only way to prime. Moving the strainer lower is and has been on my to do list. It is difficult to get to and moving it to a better location presents other issues because of existing wires, hoses, filters. For this reason I have a RED SOLO CUP CUTWATER AIR UNIT PRIMER. :shock:
 
Brian

Do you think a possible solution would be to place a “T” in the line with a shutoff. You could hook up a fresh or raw water hose to prime. You could also use it to flush the lines and equipment.
 
Brian. That’s exactly how I fixed my primer problem. I added an in-line tee so can easily flush any air bubbles out of the line.
 
A tee and valve would work fine, thank you for the suggestion. One of these days I'm going to install the strainer and pump correctly. Until then I have gotten use to the Cutwater solo cup method. I prime the pump as part of my launch ritual. I do all my launch checks, packing, thru hulls, and strainers. I confirm everything is pumping properly and nothing is leaking.
 
Jim:
I used to run the raw water wash down pump to help prime the common air conditioning/wash down sea strainer when an air pocket formed.
Rodney
 
The other reason I am thinking of doing the tee is reduce the times I have to bend over and get in the tiny space. My back is not what it used to be. My strainer must be installed more properly. I keep my boat on a lift and rarely have to prime it. But I would like to flush out the salt water easily.
 
Back
Top