Air Conditioner woes

knotflying

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
6,014
Fluid Motion Model
C-28
Hull Identification Number
FMLT2731J011
Non-Fluid Motion Model
25' Parker & 246 Robalo Cayman
Vessel Name
http://illusionsmikeandjess.blogspot.com
I have the following symptoms - Unit goes on, but sounds like the compressor is struggling to go on. The breaker pops. And then sometimes when I turn the unit on the compressor does not even kick in and the fan just runs.
Getting plenty of water flow and no fault readouts on the t-stat. Before calling for repairs any suggestions?

Thanks,

Mike Rizzo
 
Mike: This sounds like a real puzzler. I'm sure you've checked this but make sure the fresh air vent under your stateroom bed is not covered up and while you're down there clean the screen if it needs it. Other then that I'd suggest calling Andrew to see what his thoughts may be. In any case let us know the outcome.

Jim F
 
Mike,

The symptoms suggest that you have either a bad start relay or a bad start capacitor; these are sometimes combined. I've had a bad start capacitor on a motorhome A/C which gave the symptoms that you describe. I'm assuming the Dometic marine A/C also uses a start capacitor, but I don't know that for sure.
 
Thanks Dale,

I am suspecting it is an electrical issue on the start side. When I first bought the boat I replaced the capacitor with one of those smart start capacitors. I have to see if I have the original around to swap out and see if that does the trick. Until then, open windows at the dock!!
 
I would first look for any corrosion at any of the connections and specifically the contact points of the starting relay . I assume ( perhaps incorrectly) that there is a relay with your AC . Next , the capacitor which often make a fun buzzing noise when they are in failure mode . Last , if you have an AM radio on and tuned between stations and there is a lot of static when you turn the AC on , there is your smoking gun for the above issues .
Richard
 
Update. Bad compressor. Not a pleasant job removing it but it can be done. Now for the repair. Will advise as things progress.
 
hmmmm, just found the time to check this list. I hate it when work keeps me from fun
speaking of fun, a bad AC compressor on a barely broken in boat is not a check mark in the Fun column
keep us apprised of the manufacturers stance on this
jeez, the AC compressors on our tractors are generations old and still work
 
Yes, I was very surprised. I have asked the question to the powers that be and I am awaiting a response. And by the way the cost will be.....1,350.00. It is cheaper to just pack myself with ice! :cry:
 
Keep us posted about the results Mike. In the event this happens to anyone else it would be good to know your outcome.

Jim F
 
Yes Mike please do. How will you get the unit out, through the cave or from the V birth side? Good luck.

Tim
Gratitude
 
Removed it from the cave side. Boy did they figure the dimensions just right. I had to remove the top control box though in order to slide it back out of the cave. Disconnecting the refrigerant piping and the supply side water is done from the cave side. The electrical and water outlet are done from the V-berth side. It is my pleasure to be your guinea pig on this one. The connections are supposed to be quick disconnect for the refrigerant, but mine (always the luck) did not seem to want to be quick disconnect and I lost the refrigerant. So an evacuation and recharge is in my repair price. :cry:
 
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