An addition to my preventative maintenance check list

[BB marine]

Yesterday I removed my 120V AC main breaker panel because I could not find my panel wiring schematics. I made changes to the panel when I installed and wired the Kisea inverter to the panel. There is a fellow Cutwater owner that had questions about the panel wiring and there has been questions about how to change the configuration form half the breaker panel to complete or add additional circuits to the inverter.

When I removed the panel I could see very easily what I had changed to complete my objectives. I also realized how the Cutwater owner was experiencing a continual Hot 120V to his outlet even when the main 30 amp breaker was off but outlet breaker on. The factory panel wiring is a bit sketchy relying strictly on a full functioning ELCI breaker and functioning inverter built in breaker and main breaker from the generator. The main 30 amp double pole breaker should not be relied on in its entirety. It is only protecting the neutral for the inverter side of the panel. When I installed the inverter I had changed this and this is why I was not experiencing the 120V hot to ground issue when the main breaker was off. I have spoke to other Cutwater owners and they too were also experiencing hot to ground 120V with main breaker off.

Here's really what my post is about. Inspect the connections at the AC panel. I wish I would have done this when I installed the inverter but I didn't. The fact is the only terminal screws that were tight in the panel were the screws that I tightened when I installed the inverter and the Blue Sea factory installed terminals were tight. The rest I didn't touch why would I ? Well as it turns out I should have. All of the terminal screws servicing the cutwater installed circuits were loose and the hot water heater breaker terminal was melted from continuous use and loose connection. The Battery charger breaker terminal was covered with oxidation due to continuous use with loose connections.

After seeing the burnt wires I inspected and tighten each terminal screw every screw inspected was loose the battery charger very loose finger tight and the hot water heater that melted I was able to remove that screw with my fingers once I got all the melted wire insulation off of it.


I have used the boat for four years without a 120V issue except the main shore power plug receptical connector screws were loose and the ELCI kept tripping. I should have checked all connectors then . The amazing part of this is the water heater worked the last time we used it. I'm sure this is uncommon but it happened. Electrical issues should not be accepted by manufactures. When it comes to QC electrical installations should be a strict standard. The most common cause of fires in boats is electrical.

I am adding electrical connection inspection to my list and checking them off as I go.

hot water terminal completely melted


The terminal next to the failed terminal (battery charger) had oxidation all around it was also finger tight


This is the battery charger terminal I removed it and cleaned the oxidation , inspected the crimp and reinstalled


This picture is blurry but it is the remains of the melted connector and the melted wire insulation from the indicator lights in the breaker switch.


Photo of some of the melted insulation and the indicator light terminal connector.

 

[HookedUp]

Good advice. Glad you found the problems before it became more serious. I've seen a fellow boater's injuries after having his boat catch fire and explode. I've always thought I was being careful. Now, after reading your post I'm planning to go check the wiring a bit more seriously.

 

[FWTMD]

Wow.

It also makes me wonder about the connections at the other ends, at the devices being powered.

 

[tdellaviola]

Yikes!! is the panel in the mid-birth cave?

 

[BB marine]

Wow.

It also makes me wonder about the connections at the other ends, at the devices being powered.

That is the plan. I'm going to start inspecting electrical connections through out the complete boat. Many have been done already because of other electrical installs that I have done. When I moved the batteries I found many of the terminal butt connectors had never been shrink sealed one side was but the side going to the accessory wasn't. I repaired all of the connections in the aft section of the boat.

Yikes!! is the panel in the mid-birth cave?

yes

 

[FWTMD]

Brian, this information is very helpful.

I am an interested buyer, not yet an owner. While issues like this are troublesome, I do like the boats (both Ranger and Cutwater). But the general boating advice is often given to pay the price and take the time to have a survey done on a NEW boat, to check on everything. This advice was just reinforced for me. I'll want every electrical connection checked, and every hose clamp checked. More, to be sure, but at least those things.

 

[Cutwater28GG]

Brian whats the trick to see the back of the Blue seas panel?

 

[BB marine]

Brian whats the trick to see the back of the Blue seas panel?

In the top and bottom of the panel there are covers that "pop off" the mounting screws can be then accessed. the is a #8 screw in each corner. Remove the screws and the panel will pull out. It takes about a minute to remove.


The covers are seen in the photo below. The top covers have lettering 120V AC. The bottom are the same and one is labeled inverter. Careful use a small blade screw driver to pry under the cover and it will pop off. Have shore power un-plugged when removing the panel

 

[Cutwater28GG]

marvelous thanks Brian. I guess thats also the best way to "see" into this cabinet and the wiring runs to the other switches and displays mounted to the right of this unit.

adding this to my list.

not that ive ever used my inverter or water heater in 5 years of ownership! all engine heat and 12v electrical devices!

 

[ohioan55]

I know this goes without saying, but make sure all power is removed before sticking the meat hooks into these panels. (sorry to but in)..

 

[iggy]

Yes, thank you for pointing this out. What come to mind was this a lack of not being tight in the first place. Or did they become loose over time? What was the timing between the inverter install and now or even when the boat was built?

 

[BB marine]

Yes, thank you for pointing this out. What come to mind was this a lack of not being tight in the first place. Or did they become loose over time? What was the timing between the inverter install and now or even when the boat was built?

This had nothing to do with the inverter install. It was because of inverter install and inspection of inverter install that the issue was found. All terminal fasteners tightened by Blue Sea manufacturing were tight. All terminal fasteners that were involved with the inverter install were tight at rotary switch and 120V hot bus bar. Terminal fasteners found loose( finger tight) hot water heater at the breaker connection,( finger tight) at battery charger breaker connection, (1/2 to 3/4) turn to tighten at marine air unit, stove, microwave, starboard and port outlets, neutral at main 30 amp breaker feeding the neutral bus bar and neutral bus bar terminal fasteners (1/2 to 1/4 turn to tighten random some were very tight some loose, green ground at panel 1/4 to 1/2 turn to tighten, Green ground to bus bar was tight but random loose green terminal fasteners were found.

I originally found shore power receptacle in cockpit, terminal fastener connections loose when the boat was new. I found the loose connections when I was troubleshooting a periodic tripping of the ELCI. At that time I should have inspected all connections. The boat is a 2016. You can draw you own conclusion as to why the terminal connections are loose. Here is what I know from mechanical maintenance. If a fastener connection point is clean and tightened properly and rechecked after installation. By design it should not come loose. If a fastener connection is not tighten properly and not inspected after installation. That fastener can loosen more by vibrations and heat. In electrical connections the heat is caused by the loose connection. That was the cause of the melted wires and damage in the panel in my C26.

The threads intension it is to check and confirm that there are not loose connections that could cause an electrical failure.

And yes as I previously posted

Have shore power un-plugged when removing the panel

Do not rely on the breakers to break the power. Do a physical disconnect at the shore power pedestal plus confirm the battery powered switch to the inverter is off and generator battery switch is off if equipped . If you choose to inspect your electrical system.