Anchoring

[mddogpilot]

Is there a video of deploying the anchor on the RT29CB? Any good reference material? I read the operation section of the manual, but I don't even know how to unlock the chain.

Bought used and didn't get the 2 day Ranger tour.

Not sure how to safely deploy the rode, how it's marked, spliced, etc.

Thank you

 

[NSM]

I just took the two day tour and have videos I can forward via drop box. Message me your email if you’d like them.

I also wrote down the following notes.

Anchor
Mark anchor location on Garmin to find drift
Raise anchor bale
Set anchor using helm switch
Can use low speed throttle setting to back away from the anchor
10 seconds down = 25 ft of anchor line
Route line through guide and onto cleat to tie off.
When rewinding the chain, keep it cleared away from under the windlass or it will get stuck. Can hear it in the clutch.
When anchor is close, use small taps to get it up and centered over the guide
Drop the anchor bale when back up
Secure chain???
Breaker is behind head mirror
Set clutch so it spins when the anchor is fully up. Don’t want it too tight

Cheers
Scott

 

[SJI Sailor]

Besides NSM’s notes, deploy all of the chain and rode laid out along the dock before going out, and check the general condition, especially: the shackle, rode/chain connection, whether it is marked (and to mark it yourself), and — important — that the end of the rode is secure to the boat inside the locker.

 

[strangecrew]

Besides NSM’s notes, deploy all of the chain and rode laid out along the dock before going out, and check the general condition, especially: the shackle, rode/chain connection, whether it is marked (and to mark it yourself), and — important — that the end of the rode is secure to the boat inside the locker.

Good points and marking the line is on my short list. NSM's notes are good (I just went through the same 2 day training 3 weeks ago). Only note I'd add is, drop anchor from the helm and raise anchor from the bow (implied somewhat because you have to be there to make sure chain/rode don't pile up under the intake).

 

[Dcsqatar]

All good input. Here are a few other things to consider.

1. Mark the rode. I used plastic multicolored distance markers that you thread into the rope. 2 years later, and 20+ anchoring opportunities, still working well.

2. Consider installing a swivel at the chain/anchor connection. I think it reduces introduction of twists to the rope. One time a twist-induced kink got stuck in the winch gypsy during deployment and it was a pain to remove.

3. Consider replacing the factory provided plow anchor with a Rocna, Mantis or similar anchor. They are better holding.

4. Many boaters use an anchor snubber to reduce anchor loads on the windlass or boat cleat. My feeling is that if you have only 50 foot of chain (as supplied by Ranger) then you will almost never have chain in the windlass gypsy when deployed. When rope is tied off to the cleat, there will be no loads on the windlass, and the rope has some elasticity to absorb shocks.

5. When the anchor is back on the boat, I use a snap shackle attached to the chain with a short rope tied to the bow cleat to take the anchor weight so that I am not relying upon (or stressing) the windlass to hold the anchor when underway.

6. Finally, when anchoring approach from the downwind and/or down current direction (whichever is dominant) so that the boat naturally drifts backward after deployment. Once the proper amount of rode is deployed, tug a bit on the rode to feel if the anchor is set, and when you think it is, put the boat in idle reverse to ensure it is set. Do this by finding a fixed landmark and confirming the boat is not moving with the engine in reverse.