Another batter issue...

Fishpants

Active member
Joined
Jun 27, 2015
Messages
28
Fluid Motion Model
C-30 S
Vessel Name
Doug
Away for a 2 week trip and hoping to spend most of the time on the hook. Just replaced my starter battery, but just discovered after one night at anchor that the house batteries are toast. Does anyone know if I can simple connect house to thruster battery with jumper cables to get a couple of days of juice? Thruster battery is fine. I do have a small generator, but I was hoping not to use it too much, and the batteries aren’t holding more than 12 hrs, with light draw. Any advice?
 
Re: my last post, I’ve decided to head for civilization and replace my batteries. Trip just got pricier, but at least I’ll have power!
 
Fishpants, ya beat me to it!

Your house bank being four batteries should stand up fine to overnight electrical draw unless they need replacement or you’re really pulling on them all night.

To help decide if replacement is where to begin check if they are into or past their fifth year of service then put an amp meter in line and turn on everything you ran that night to reveal the amp draw during that night. Fully charge the batteries if they will do that, shut off everything you can do without at night, turn the fridge down and check the new, lower amp draw then see if the current batteries are toast after overnighting with the new, lower amp draw..

If the four house batteries show they can stand up well to the new, lower amp draw overnight you could consider keeping them and adding the thruster battery, there’s threads on the “Nuts about that and I did that in my old R25. If they are anywhere around 4 years or older and can’t handle the new low amp draw overnight fresh batteries are indicated and replace the thruster battery while you're at it so you can very confidently add it to the house bank.

When sorting out batteries issues keep in the forefront of your thoughts that, while there’s all sorts of ways to keep an eye on new batteries as their service life goes on and all sorts of ways to help make that service life as long as it can be; there’s really really no way to bring them back once they can’t do what’s needed of them.

Batteries tend to work best together if they are all the same age, same type, same amperage hour, same style, same brand, same state of health, get charged the same etc. etc. etc. You might also consider a solar panel which will provide a moderate amp charge all day every sunny day because fully charged batteries are happy batteries!

Once your sorted out, to keep an eye on things you can check standing voltage with the built in gauge when you retire and when you awake, this will give you an inkling into how you’re doing on the overnight draw and the batteries capabilities as they diminish over time. The important number here is the morning number, that’s their state when they’re done doing what you need them to do time and again for years. I write information like this down somewhere because I can’t remember breakfast.

Use the same gauge to check standing voltage of your new starting and thruster batteries under load by putting the gauge on that battery and noting the voltage while you operate the starter and thruster.

I’ve constantly owned a truck, a car, a UTV, a camper and boats for the last 25 or so years so I’m operating, maintaining and replacing eleven batteries all the time which means the above advice was learned the hard way.

Use a tremendous amount of caution and safety gear when working with batteries, think of them as powerful, eager to short out, explosive gas making, acid filled little bombs because that’s what they are. I cover all my flesh completely and wear a full face shield and safety goggles when I have anything to do with them.

Also, forget using any spring loaded clip on style connector to carry electricity, those jumper cables you mentioned. When any one of the four connectors pops off you will be what’s known in boating circles as “on fire.”

Hopes this helps
 
Thanks tugnnaweigh, that’s some great feedback! I do have a solar panel (I have a 2016 29S) but I have drained the house bank a couple of times, as I used to leave the boat plugged in and the house battery selector on so I can run heaters in the cabin. I also had a fridge running with a few food items.(We don’t fully winterize, as we want the option to go out on a whim in the off season). A couple of times we either tripped a breaker at the marina, or the shore power plug got accidentally disconnect. As a result, the charger was off but the fridge was still running. Result- drained battery. My understanding of batteries is that multiple incidents of total drainage can render them pretty much toast. So hopefully I’ve now learned a (very expensive) lesson. Might have to change my process!
And thanks for your advice on battery safety- your last comment gave me a good laugh!
 
Thanks for Thanks, I speak straight and bury a bit of humor here and there. In managing my refer first I freeze everything that can stand it before I put said items in my pre cooled fridge hoping to create a refer/icebox combo. Then I run the heck out of it all day to keep it cold so I can turn it way way down for the night, that's the icebox part.

The enemy's your fighting are temperature differentials, putting stuff in there that's warm and opening the refrigerator door as you do throughout the day.

In keeping temps to the top end of the food zone of 42 degrees, daytime highs of 90 is much harder to defeat than the overnight lows of 50 if you see what I mean.

Leave a thermostat in it to monitor daytime temps and most importantly to check temp in the morning to see what it was during the passage of the night. What you're hoping to avoid or at least know how long it lasted is temperatures above the food zone which is usually marked on the thermostat.

I run at about 4/4.5 during the day, anything above that it seems to run constantly without any further reduction in temperature. My goal overnight is a 2/2.5 setting with a temp in the morning still in the food zone.

Like with batteries there's ways to monitor refrigerator health/performance. Monitor in the evenings how often in a set time it runs and how long it runs, your listening for a faint hum or deaf like me you place your hand on it, anyhoo, then monitor how often and long it runs after turning it down. Quantify the difference as a percent and maybe that's the percent decrease in battery draw or like me it just makes you feel better about your effort.

RV refrigerators have a reputation of being better at keeping things cold rather than cooling things down. I tend to put my now cool next day liquids in the fridge at the last opening of the evening so I can have cold cold liquids the next boating day but if you experience a daytime warm beer emergency that of course must be addressed on the spot!

And as always you can take heart that in the boating world the likeliest first three outcomes to any effort is "Well shoot, that didn't work".
 
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