Another electrical oddity

U

Ursus

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2020
Messages
16
Fluid Motion Model
C-26
Vessel Name
Midori
A while back I determined that my solar charge controller on Midori was not operating (at all) so I replaced it with a Victron 75/15. In the Bluetooth app, I can see that the controller is getting good voltage input from the panel, but doesn’t seem to be charging the batteries much. Even when the batteries are discharging when at anchor, the output of the charge controller is not changing. When I installed the controller, I used the existing wiring, which connects directly to positive and negative on the house bank.

Interested if anyone has any thoughts on what the issue might be.

Thanks,
Ray
 
How are you monitoring the charging output from the controller?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
CruisingElvinRay":1jrguvir said:
How are you monitoring the charging output from the controller?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


The Victron controller has a Bluetooth app that gives usage stats.
 
If you put a blanket or cardboard on the solar panel, does it change the output? Should go to zero. What stats are you seeing on a sunny day?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
CruisingElvinRay":3iarpfog said:
If you put a blanket or cardboard on the solar panel, does it change the output? Should go to zero. What stats are you seeing on a sunny day?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I’ve not tried covering it up, but the input from the panel to the controller seems to be ok, I’m getting 19-21V and 8-9A in full sun. On the out side, I’m seeing the expected 13-14V,but 0-1A, and no accumulated WH of charge, even when the batteries are discharging. Ie., this past weekend my house batteries dropped to 11.9V at anchor, but I got no charge from the solar. Charged fine from the alternator when I ran the engine to cruise to the next spot.
 
time to trace the wiring.

the old morningstar controller has two battery outputs. one to the house and one to the engine. the victron has one. so I assume you picked one of the wires to use. I'd check whats wired where again.

If you are potentially charging the engine battery that could be part of the problem on why the house batt is not getting charged. that being said the ACR between the engine and house should open in this case allowing power to go from controller --> engine battery --> house battery. so you could have two issues going on. the acr and which battery you are charging from the victron.

I'd also suggest you check which charging profile you have selected on the victron as it may not be suitable for your battery

also you should install the victron long range bluetooth battery sense module and connect to the same network the mppt controller is on. this will tell the victron the voltage at the battery with the voltage drops down the cables. could also be a factor...
 
Ursus":1kirbs2v said:
A while back I determined that my solar charge controller on Midori was not operating (at all) so I replaced it with a Victron 75/15. Even when the batteries are discharging when at anchor, the output of the charge controller is not changing. When I installed the controller, I used the existing wiring, which connects directly to positive and negative on the house bank.
Click to expand...

The 10AWG cable that goes from the house battery to the Victron solar controller will have a fuse on the wire. The fuse is nearest the battery. It's an ATO flat/blade style fuse. It's not in any fuse block or distribution panel. It's just an ATO blade fuse on the wire just before it connects to the battery. Should be a 30amp, but may be different on your boat. I'd verify that it's not blown as that would prevent the solar charger from being able to charge the batteries.

If it's not the fuse, then maybe checking the Victron configuration for correct battery type as Cutwater28GG suggested. I've had to change mine from the default(s). Also the Victron MPPT controller has a setting for how many amp's it can send to the battery. Make sure that number is 15.
 
I am interested in your statement Martin that you had to change the Victron 100-30 configuration from the default setting no. 2. what batteries do you have and what made you change the configuration? I am installing on a c28 a 360 watt single solar panel wired to a Victron 100-30 controller wired to 2 X AGM 12v deep cycle house batteries expecting the default setting would be correct. any advise? thanks for all your helpful input.
 
Mikey,
My setup is very similar. A 335 watt panel, VE 100/30 controller and 2 deep cycle AGM house batteries.
My reading of the manual for the VE 100/30 on page 14 is to leave the controller set to the default “2” setting.
If you had the spiral wound Optima AGM batteries you would change the setting to “3”.

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/do ... pdf-en.pdf
 
Do you have a copy of the Victron Energy manual? If not, PM me with an email address and I can send you a copy.
The manual indicates two error causes of no output to the batteries. The first is failure of the fuse inserted into the controller. The fuse is located in terminals end of the controller (20A for the 75/15 model.)
The second is that the connection between the controller and the panel is reverse polarity. In the case the controller will heat (get hot) but will not provide charge output. The rather concerns me since with full sun you report a power input of about 170 watts without any output. Is the power causing the controller to overheat? This power is way more than the controller's heat sink can safely dissipate.

The controller has a set of LEDs which indicate useful information on operating parameters. See p7. of the Victron manual to understand what the LEDs are indicating.
 
Osprey,
Second what you said about the reserve polarity going into the solar controller.
On our C-28 the wiring done by the factory to the controller was correct but opposite the typical wire colors rules. That is, the yellow wire was connected as the positive wire and the red wire was connected as the negative wire at the controller. It worked but pretty confusing if you weren’t checking everything out.
When I upgraded to a bigger panel I converted the wires to match the normal standard of the red wire being positive and yellow being negative.
 
mikey":2get878g said:
I am interested in your statement Martin that you had to change the Victron 100-30 configuration from the default setting no. 2. what batteries do you have and what made you change the configuration? I am installing on a c28 a 360 watt single solar panel wired to a Victron 100-30 controller wired to 2 X AGM 12v deep cycle house batteries expecting the default setting would be correct. any advice? thanks for all your helpful input.
Click to expand...

Your boat is most definitely different than mine. I converted Channel Surfing to LiFePo4 (LFP). So I had to program the MPPT controller for Lithium.

I have a 320amp-hour single Lithionics house battery with two 200 watt solar panels (400 watts total).
Channel Surfing is quite a ways away from factory standard at this point.

This is the battery I have now.
https://www.letsgochannelsurfing.com/lithium

Here's the drawing and list of electrical changes I've made to my boat.
https://www.letsgochannelsurfing.co...48310aa0d84d70a4f687475046e9d9.pdf?index=true
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

  • Tugnuts.com is the community hub for Ranger Tug, Cutwater, and Solara owners. Since its inception in 2008, the Tugnuts forum has grown into an active and thriving community of more than 9,000 members. It serves as both a meeting place for the best boating community online, and an invaluable archive of information.

  • User menu
Back
Top