anybody upgraded to Lithium?

We have installed lithium in our RV. If all goes well we will go lithium on our R23. Currently making sure our charging system works correctly. So far the battery (100AH Ruixu) is working great. We are going to add a “Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-30A Isolated DC-DC Charger with built-in Bluetooth” as soon as it’s available for proper charging with alternator. I thinks it’s definitely the future of DC power.
Mark
 
NorCal":2dpltdrq said:
I did talk to Balmar a couple of years ago and they had added a second alternator to the D4 Volvo engines for the Coast Guard. They actually sent me a couple of pics. What I didn't like about it is the new alternator was mounted below the water pump. So any water that would come out with an impeller change would run on your new expensive alternator.

Volvo actually makes a kit to fit a second alternator to the D4 and D6... https://www.volvopentashop.com/epc/en-US/Details/PentaPartsCatalog/7746200_086 (p/n 3889549, plus alternator 874502)... almost $1,500 for both from the one price I can find online :shock: ... It does appear to also sit below the seawater pump.

It would be interesting to see a kit made to fit in the open space we have where the supercharger goes on the leg version of the D4. (starboard side, top of engine)
 
I did not know there was one from Volvo. And yikes that is a bit pricey. Time to do some more Googling to see if there is another option. I agree, putting a second alternator where the supercharger would go I think would be a great option.
 
cant believe there isnt an aftermarket for this. its just a bracket and new belt!
 
Reading this with interest as moving towards my retirement boat as a new R25 with the low power AC that can run and start from batteries or while engine + 2k rpm. Goal is battery power for overnight on hook with AC. One issue troubles me in my research that perhaps someone can comment on. I read the lith ions should not be stored at greater than 50% or they risk damage which presents obvious practical problems as the boat sits in the marina on shore power outlets waiting for the next outing, where you want it ready to roll.


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yes; which means that the charger technology needs to be changed as well as the batteries. the chargers all designed and installed for the last 50 years to float lead batteries are not appropriate for lithium. a proper lithium designed charger wont hold batteries in float charge all the time.

that promariner charger will need to go. ive not found in the victron specs the details on this but Im pretty sure their inverter/charger will be programmable to do this - but you might need the control GX system to program it.

if you are quite far down the journey the guys at Victron are always happy to advise on the phone.
 
Thanks! My journey has unfortunately gone backwards a bit as coronavirus has taken a hunk out of my 401K.


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Can twin 300 Yamaha OB alt charge theses batterys?
 
i dont know these engines so please check with the outboard dealer, but from what I can see they have 50-70 amp alternators each.

the issue isnt so much the total amps however its if these alternators can deal with the max load current being held that way for long periods of time. thats what cooks the alternators when people go to Lithium batteries. the batteries will just take as much current as the alternator can give it.

thats why folks generally upgrade / add a second engine alternator like the high power Balmar XT units on the inboards.
not sure what the options are or if required on outboards.
 
I changed out my house batteries with battle born lithium ion batteries two seasons ago. So far I am very happy. The only problem my head was the voltage never go below 13 V. So the battery combiner never drops out So I had to disconnect the automatic battery combiner. I just use the standard battery charger on AGM everything seems to work fine.
 
How do you charge the house batteries when running the boat. I like the idea of Lithium weight and amp hour capacity. The big issue seems to be changing. A separate charger isolating the AGM’s from lithium is an easy task for shore power charging. The more complicated issue is changing while cruising. If you are not using the Auto charge relay how are you charging the house batteries? The batteries you are using are 31 lbs 100 amp hr. the AGM I’m using is 67 lbs 92 amp hr. Battery weight and capacity are very important in boats that are stern weight sensitive. 200 amp hr from two batteries weighing less than 1 AGM is a big +. More information about your installation and battery management would be appreciated.
 
Here is a great you tube where this young couples blog I have been following give some great information about Lithium batteries and how they install 12 100ah drop in's to replace 3 100AH lead acid in there sailboat to power there electric motor. Allowing them to go from 15 min cruse at 4 kts to 5 hours at 4kts with little weight increased.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vY_-Wfyx0_A
 
ixlr8":3scik61p said:
These are the batteries that the folks on 2CoolFishing are installing and seem to be having good luck with. I would like to get some weight out of the stern on my boat, but not for this kind of money.

https://www.lithiumpros.com/marine/

The cost is at lest 5 times as much as a AGM if not more. Also, you would be losing 50% of the wight which would be about 50 to 125lbs depending on how many batteries you have. Personally, I would not do it. Don't forget, most likely you will need to change out your charger too.
 
the other factors that may help you make a decision

1. supported cycles - lithium has a higher cycle rate than AGM which means they last longer which offsets the cost
2. faster charging capability - useful for folks who do short hops between anchorages every day.

you really however need to think about going lithium as a system and not just battery replacements.

ultimately the decision to go lithium comes down to how you plan to use the boat.
 
The more I am thinking about it. Every year the price of lithium batteries go down. Can you wait it out?
 
I check with my dealer and he did some research and said that my inverter/ charger is set to handle it, just need to change some settings. The AGM are supposed to last 3 to 5 years. We still have a couple 3 years left before we would switch. Maybe the prices will come down. It would be great to have tho extra capacity so we could charge up a tank of hot water while setting at anchor if we wanted to. Might isolate a couple just for that. would not dare do that with a lead acid because they should not go below 50%.
 
Captain Blok":j9mo7apg said:
I check with my dealer and he did some research and said that my inverter/ charger is set to handle it, just need to change some settings. The AGM are supposed to last 3 to 5 years. We still have a couple 3 years left before we would switch. Maybe the prices will come down. It would be great to have tho extra capacity so we could charge up a tank of hot water while setting at anchor if we wanted to. Might isolate a couple just for that. would not dare do that with a lead acid because they should not go below 50%.


For what its worth... I have 5 AGMs on my boat and they range from 4 to 10 years old. As of late fall, they where just fine. In a few weeks I will uncover her and we will see.
 
Ranger now had an Inverter AC Lithium Option for the R25. Just ordered it. $5k. See my post for complete info in the ask the factory section.


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Cutwater28GG":198ufzn7 said:
Thanks Paul good ideas!

Do 50ah lithium batteries have the cold cranking amps to start a diesel?
That’s something I struggle to understand with the specs. I think for me I would have 200ah of house batts so effectively double the capacity with the switch but the 50ah proposal is interesting.

One thing that needs to be checked with all the equipment is Whether the voltage settings are correct for lithium if doing the battle born drop in. You mentioned the charger but the ACRs also have cut over voltages that I think need to be valid for the lithium.
The alternator needs to be checked it can handle the load and if need be have a controller to control it’s output. (Lithium’s can take a huge charge).
Also the solar controller needs to be set for lithium. I don’t think My Morningstar can do this.

Starting batteries and House batteries are rated differently. Starting (and Thruster) batteries should be chosen based on Cold Cranking Amps (CCA). Those types of batteries are built for high amperage, short duration draws on power.
House batteries, on the other hand should be chosen based on AmpHours as they are typically used for longer-use, lower use (relatively) power draws. You definitely do not want to use a CCA rated battery for a House bank, and conversely an AH rated battery for Starter / Thruster power.
 
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