aqualarm display sensor unit

[nzfisher]

So I am gathering the parts to install the aqualarm flow meter and temp sensor on my R25. I am considering installing the aqualarm 20500 display unit (LCD) instead of the standard unit, if I can find a place to mount it. It offers an expandability capacity for other sensors should I want to install a bilge counter or alarm. It costs a little more but in the scheme of the installation work involved it is not a big deal. The bilge pump seems to be coming on more frequently these days and it would be nice to know how often it is pumping. I was wondering if anyone installed one of these critters (20500 display) and what they think of them both in terms of function and ease of installation?

 

[knotflying]

I can't answer you question regarding the alarm. As far as the bilge pump going on more often, check the impeller on the pump. Sometimes if hair and fuzz gets stuck in there it does not pump like it should and even stays on longer than normal. Then there is the possibility of a domestic water leak or your stuffing box may need tightening.

 

[captstu]

I, also, am in the process of installing a set of temp and flow alarms on my R-25.

How do I feed a wire from the engine compartment to the console? I can get the wire to the front with no unusual problems, but can't find an opening into the console that isn't jam packed full.

Thanks! /Stu

 

[RSC]

Today I was installing the raw water flow and exhaust temp Aqualarm on my R21 . The wires for the sending units to the display and switch call for 18-20 AWG. With my "stuffed" wiring harness I found it easy to thread the 18AWG wires into the harness under the tie wraps and to the light display / buzzer I mounted in the dash.
Bob

 

[ALICE J]

I found space if you come up from behind where the courtesy light cut out is in the plywood interior frame. Use a fiber glass rod for fishing electrical wire, (Home Depot, or Harbor Freight)

 

[baz]

Today I was installing the raw water flow and exhaust temp Aqualarm on my R21 . The wires for the sending units to the display and switch call for 18-20 AWG. With my "stuffed" wiring harness I found it easy to thread the 18AWG wires into the harness under the tie wraps and to the light display / buzzer I mounted in the dash.
Bob

I hope you're right about that "...I found it easy...". Did you use any special tool to snake the wires from engine box to the helm console ?

 

[RSC]

I thought it was very easy. I pulled out the fridge and set it to the side. (4 Screws) Then I took a length of steel welding rod
( straight coat hanger will do) and pushed it along the wiring harness under the floor to the pop out deck plate in front of the cabin door outside. I then taped a long piece of nylon cord to the wire (coat hanger) end and pulled the cord back into the cabin leaving a long piece of cord coming out of the deck plate . Then I taped an electrical wire end to the cord coming out of the deck plate and pulled the wire into the cabin. The cord should be long enough so that there is still a good piece of cord still coming out of the deck plate hole after you pull the electrical wire into the cabin. I then pulled the cord back out the deck plate hole leaving an end in the cabin. I repeated the steps for the second wire and subsequent wires for the engine temp alarm. I left a short end of the cord accessible through the deck plate hole into the bilge and left the other end neatly stuffed out of the way behind the fridge. That way I can pull more wires when necessary. Snaking the wire along the existing wire harness under the console was easy. I fed it into the bundle that was tie wrapped and then eventually to the back of the dash. I was able to mount the special single panel containing both the raw water and engine overheat on the dash over the fuel gauge. There was just enough room to fit it there. For proper sight when sitting to avoid the teak trim of the dash, I shimmed the panel 1/2 inch out from the dash with starboard. The panel that has both the raw water and engine overheat alarms is really trick as there is a button to mute the buzzer if desired but still leave the warning lights on. It automatically resets to the buzzer when cycled on again with the ignition switch.

Was in Harbor Freight the other day and they sell a flexible 50 ft nylon fish tape for wire pulling --- Item #66505 for cheap ($6.99). That should go easily from the cabin to the stern of the boat for long wire pulls.

 

[baz]

RSC.... thanks much for that detail for 'wire fishing'. 🙂

 

[nzfisher]

So I guess the answer to my original question about the LCD display is no one has installed one.