Aqualarm flow sensor install on R21EC Volvo Penta ???

[sheral]

Okay, I need to get around to installing the Aqualarm flow sensor and Muffler sensor on our R21EC / Volvo Penta engine. Has anyone done this? I am just not seeing the room required to fit the rather large flow sensor under the sea strainer - especially if one wants to keep it in a somewhat horizontal position (as recommended). If anyone has done this install, could you please post some pics and/or provide some advice?

Thanks...

 

[sheral]

Just in case this helps someone... After speaking to Aqualarm and forum member SGIDAVE, a possible spot to place the flow sensor on the Volvo Penta D1-30, is on the line that runs from the reverse gear housing (under the engine) to the impeller housing. If this line is pulled to the starboard side and secured, it will provide a horizontal and upright mounting position for the flow sensor. It will also provide a position where the flow sensor can be seen and monitored.

 

[sheral]

The flow sensor is now installed under the engine and to the starboard side. This location allows for the sensor to be mounted horizontally and can be inspected quite easily. The barbed fittings all fit the flow sensor easily. I removed the complete hose which made cutting into the metal lined hose much easier. I removed 4” of hose, which allows the hose to snake over to the starboard side of the engine, but keeps there from being an excess amount of hose. The exhaust sensor was a simple install and I have pulled all my wires from the engine compartment, behind the fridge to the dash area.

Right now I am just trying to figure out where to get my ‘hots’ from as the VP ignition cable looks nothing like I have ever seen before :? I don’t have the batteries in the boat right now. Does anyone know, on the VP D1-30, are the instrument lights only on after you hit the engine start button?

Starting to wonder if I may have to add a dash switch from a ‘house power’ source but that could be an issue should a person forget to turn the switch on when starting the boat...

 

[sheral]

I will just keep updating this thread in hopes that it helps someone at some point. Anyway, I added a length of 3’ ‘super tubes’ wire loom in the engine compartment to protect the sensor(s) wires from heat/etc. The wires and sensors have been zap strapped, shrink tube-heat sealed, and silicone taped all the way into the dash area. I will have to get my ’new’ batteries installed before I figure out for sure what hot connections will work. Lots of help here on the forum and thanks to SGIDAVE for his expertise and assistance. 😀

 

[sheral]

Tim at Ranger suggested using this VP part, for an easy (but expensive) switched hot, that works for accessories.

VP part number 3594745 - 12v auxiliary wiring harness/relay. It simply clips into the side of the D1-30 engine and has two hot pigtails for accessories. Unfortunately when I looked into it further it was $280 Cdn.

Anyway, just thought I would post it here should someone be interested in the part.

http://www.terlouwvpc.com/epd/otdprosal ... ay_kit.pdf

 

[sheral]

Well guess I’m interested in the part now. After several days of digging, probing, crawling, swearing and looking for a switched hot, I have thrown in the (white) towel. A Volvo Penta mechanic even gave me a hand trying to find a suitable switched hot. Ranger has wired our 21 so that there are no switched hots to the button operated ‘start, stop, on/off panel’ on the dash. Everything except the black wire is hot once you turn on the starting battery disconnect. I suspect even the wires to the tach are the same.

Anyway, ordered the VP part today. I will update the thread once it’s received and installed and hopefully working.

:|

 

[baz]

sheral:

I'm following your post here, so please continue posting.

I've been busy and somewhat lazy over past few months with my Aqualarm sitting in its delivered box in my man cave. 😱

I do intend to install it and find your install details of interest.

Do you have any photos to share ? I'd love to see where you actually installed your alarm.... thanks in advance for your continued advice.

 

[sheral]

Hi Baz

I will try to snap some pics.

I wouldn’t doubt that you maybe already have the VP part that I had to order. When you get a chance, check the MDI box on the port side of your engine. If there is a relay box and two pigtails hanging there (they may have needed to install the relay/harness since you had all those extra wiring features added to your boat) you will be way ahead 🙂

 

[baz]

OK thanks 🙂 .... that sounds promising.... I'll check and post back later this week.

 

[rt11002003]

sheral, thanks for the info.

 

[sheral]

Here’s two pictures, one of the Aqualarm flow sensor under the engine (below the impeller housing) - there’s more room under there than it appears in the picture. The second picture shows the alarm panel that I made and mounted beside the Garmin screen. I was able to use the existing routing hole(s) for the wires etc and didn’t have to cut any holes anywhere to mount the panel. Still waiting for the VP relay/harness to finish the project.

 

[sheral]

Finally she is done. So here is what I would do if I knew what I know now.

Order the VP relay/harness kit from Volvo. Approximate cost is $200 USF or $280 Cdn. Plug the VP relay/harness in to the MDI on the side of the engine. Mount the relay where you want but I mounted mine to the engine bulkhead. If you have two accessories to wire, (such as the water flow and muffler sensors) then pull a tinned duplex wire from the engine compartment to the cabin, in the area you wish to mount your alarm/light kit. Mount your alarm/light kit. Hook number one on the alarm/light kit to one side of the raw water sensor. Hook number two on the alarm/light kit to one side of the muffler heat sensor. Pull a tinned wire from number three on the alarm/light kit to the ground on the house fuse block in the cabin. Hook the other wire from the raw water sensor and the other wire from the muffler heat sensor together and attach to one of the pigtails on the VP relay/harness. Run a wire from the other VP relay/harness pigtail to a one amp fuse holder and attach to the positive terminal on the start battery. Anyway, this is a simplified version. I used proper terminals, heat shrink, lots of zaps and 16 gauge wire for the accessories and 14 gauge wire for the battery run.

Thanks again to Dave for his help and hope this helps someone.

PS: Upside is that I did learn tons - I have a better understanding of the wiring on the boat, the raw water system, etc and also cleaned up some of the untidy wiring in and around the batteries.

 

[baz]

Thanks.... great info and thanks for the two photos. I'm curious to know the technique you used to snake/pull wires from the engine bay to the cabin.

My Aqualarm kit is still sitting in my office... must stop procrastinating and go and install it. :roll:

 

[sheral]

I simply used some ‘rebar tie’ wire. Just straighten out about six feet of it, and push it from the raw water shut off area into the starboard side of the cabin. It isn’t a very long run/pull and there is no need to buy a wire snake, if you don’t have one.

 

[baz]

Right.... thanks. 🙂

 

[SGIDAVE]

Finally she is done.

Congratulations Al,

You will now boat with even more peace of mind that all is well with your engine.

dave

 

[sheral]

Absolutely! 😀

 

[sheral]

Just a ‘plug’ for A&E Marine in Comox, BC. These guys are da’bomb. Robert was a ton of help and he really seems to care! ha! Anyway, I will be using these guys again to order parts and if you are in the Comox/Courtenay/Sunshine Coast/Desolation Sound area, I would highly recommend them for parts and or service...

 

[sheral]

Another FWIW... I checked the raw water flow rate today (by measuring the amount of expelled water from the exhaust in one minute at idle; 850 rpm). It was just over 3 gpm. So anyone building a raw water delivery system for winterizing etc., make sure it is capable of at least 3 gpm.