Attaching objects and things to cabin walls

baz

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Jun 19, 2009
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Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
I've noticed that many owners have attached things to the cabin walls.

I'd like to do the same but hesitate as drilling into the cabin wall to say, anchor a screw, may mean inadvertently punching a drilled hole right through the cabin wall.

What is the advice for securing objects to cabin wall such as some teak strips? This same question applies to the walls in the forward sleep area in the bow.

1) Example would be to add a shelf high up on each of the two walls as you enter the cabin from the cockpit such as Ranger Tug's has integrated in the new R27.

2) Another example would be the teak compartment several people have added to port side cabin wall above and centered over the dinette table.

Just what kind of attachment is used to secure these things to the fibre glass surfaces ?

Thanks.... 🙂
 
BARREY, ANY GOOD AUTO PARTS STORE WILL HAVE A ROLL OF DOUBLE SIDED AUTO TRIM TAPE.. IT WON'T WORK ON THE MONKEY FUZZ BUT I HAVE USED IT FOR EVERYTHING FROM MOUNTING THE BRACKET FOR MY BACKUP GPS ON THE DASH TO SHOWER HOOKS IN THE BATHROOM. HOME DEPOT ALSO CARRIES IT IN wider version.. NO HOLES AND THE GOOD STUFF [RED IN COLOR] HOLDS LIKE DEATH.. HOPE THIS HELPS----STEVEANDTINA 😀
 
There is a great product [new application] that was discovered by our friends @ the C-Brats. Its an automotive product that serves a lot of good purposes in marine applications as well .If one exposes a fairly non porous surface ,this product seems to be very useful .Might take a "mouse fur modification"
but should be useful for cabin and easy cockpit additions .
Marc Grove
 
So are you going to fill us in Marc or make us go look for it???? Come on Marc, pleeeeaaaaseee tell us.....
 
Check the link in the post to C brats . It directs to the actual thread regarding this product . Could have been clearer in retrospect .
Marc
 
Will it hold the first mate in place during rough weather? 😉 :lol:
 
You better hope that Gil does not read that Barry....... You will be in the boathouse!
 
Crazy Glue works best for that .
Marc
 
On the Laurie Ann, velcro holds quite nicely to the white monkey fur. Attach velcro to anything from prints to objects and it will stay there. We put photos in magnetic mounds, screw a black painted cookie sheet to wood wall, like the head door (bottom side out) and put the photos on.
 
There is another product, we use, called "Weld Mount". They have a full range of fixtures that one glues on with their epoxy. The mounts are SS; 10-24, 1/4-20 studs of various lengths and sockets - 10-24, 1\4-20 to plastic zip-tie holders, etc. If the surface is properly prepared you can't knock them off with a hammer. They have several kits with assortments of fittings.
Cheers,
 
I have a similar question to that posted by Laxey in the start of this thread. To attach something to the cabin wall do you shave off the mouse fur? I have used velcro for small objects that are temporarily affixed, but for something that is permanently affixed (like a lamp or shelf etc) velcro is insufficient.

Any suggestions :?:

Thanks

Norm on Blue Socks
 
What about on the cabin overhead?
I saw a pic in an album where a fishing rod holder was attached to the overhead in the cabin on a 25'.
I might do the same, it will have to hold a fair amount of weight so is putting a screw into the overhead feasible?
Anyone know how thick it is?
Thanks
 
For hanging things on the gelcoat or teak walls...there is a company that sells 'hooks' of all varieties that works amazingly well. It's a type of suction that is created when the silicon pads touch a surface. Yet it peels off if you wish to change the location.
www.jimmyhook.com
We used a variety of sizes from hanging keys, to storing the boat hook in a convenient place in the cockpit, to shower curtains. The largest holds weight up to 7 lbs. Best of all they are non-marking and are reusable. This won't answer the question for fabric walls, though.
 
Brian:

As far as securing to your overhead cabin it can be done, as the factory uses screws on the ceiling for the overhead hatches, teak trim, etc......the trick is having the proper screw length and location so the screw will not penetrate the exterior. I'd recommend that you call Kenny or Andrew with your question or maybe they'll see this post and respond. Also to answer Norm's question about the mouse fur. In my experience I've found if you try and drill a screw hole thru the fur and into whatever hard surface is behind it you end up with a mess. I'd suggest cutting the fur away from the area your attaching something to....if it is a permanent attachment.

Jim F
 
Trick for "drilling" through the monkey fuzz is to pull the fuzz away from the proposed hole with some well placed tape then melt a pilot hole with a hot nail. Further protection during drilling can be obtained by using a tube for a drill guide that is slightly larger than the bit in question. That will keep the stray fibers from being captured and twisted by the bit.
Frank
 
The fundamental question remains through this thread: what length and gauge should we use that works best with the fiberglass and does not compromise it? I guess the best approach would be to simply unscrew one of the factory attachments and measure it. Or harass Andrew and Kenny, which is much more fun.
 
trailertrawlerkismet":1efzrbla said:
Brian:

As far as securing to your overhead cabin it can be done, as the factory uses screws on the ceiling for the overhead hatches, teak trim, etc......the trick is having the proper screw length and location so the screw will not penetrate the exterior. I'd recommend that you call Kenny or Andrew with your question or maybe they'll see this post and respond. Also to answer Norm's question about the mouse fur. In my experience I've found if you try and drill a screw hole thru the fur and into whatever hard surface is behind it you end up with a mess. I'd suggest cutting the fur away from the area your attaching something to....if it is a permanent attachment.

Jim F

Yes.... what actually happens here is that the drill bit will attach itself to the monkey fur and start rolling around the drill bit as the bit rotates. In this manner much of the adjacent monkey fur is snatched up and a nasty mess results -- and of course all the monkey fur that has globed onto the drill bit can melt if the bit becomes too hot.
 
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