Autopilot Heading Hold stopped working 2014 25SC

[acdfpic]

While cruising yesterday, the heading hold stopped working. The controller was still showing the correct heading and was indicating that it was off course. It just wouldn't correct back. I'm wondering if the pump quick working.

I was trying to figure it out today and while at the dock I tried the heading hold and to see if the rudder would move to show it trying to correct...nothing. Any one have some good troubleshooting tips?

Thanks!

 

[NorthernFocus]

What brand AP? On my Raymarine the pump controller has a separate power supply and therefore its own fuse. I suspect Garmin is the same. The fuse may be in or immediately adjacent to the control module.

 

[acdfpic]

Should have included that up front. It's a Garmin. Anyone know where the fuse is located? I've tried to chase the wires, but haven't found it yet.

 

[acdfpic]

I found the fuse...next to the battery switches...and it was good. Any recommendations for further trouble shooting?

 

[plewis]

Mine failed several years ago so the details are sketchy and I'm not near my boat to verify them. There is a cable from the control unit that carries 12v to the motor. In my case the connector the joins the two units had a burnt out pin.

Follow the short wire from the motor to the connector and disconnect it and examine the contacts in both ends of the connector for damage. You could also test for 12v CCU end of the connector when the unit is on with a course set.

Good Luck!

 

[acdfpic]

Thanks! I will give that a try.

 

[KennyMarrs]

You might also want to check to make sure your software is up to date. It sounds silly but Garmin won't even start to troubleshoot with us until we verify the software version is current.

 

[acdfpic]

Update: Talked to Garmin today and the conclusion is that the pump is dead. They are sending me a pump for $400. A whole lot less than the $1000 for a new pump from various sources on the internet.

Only took 20 minutes to get a call back from the autopilot folks and they were very helpful.

Thanks to everyone for the help.

 

[AZtoVA]

I had the same issue on my current trip. isolated the pump out of the hydraulics and the problem when away. same deal with Garmin. they ran me through some diagnostics and will send a new pump I will pay for then give the 400 credit.. My question for the Tug Nuters is, when I take the old pump off to send back to Garmin, how do I keep from making a huge mess with the hydraulic oil?

 

[BB marine]

I had the same issue on my current trip. isolated the pump out of the hydraulics and the problem when away. same deal with Garmin. they ran me through some diagnostics and will send a new pump I will pay for then give the 400 credit.. My question for the Tug Nuters is, when I take the old pump off to send back to Garmin, how do I keep from making a huge mess with the hydraulic oil?

Do not remove the hydraulic lines. Close the valves on the valve manifold then remove the pump from the manifold. You may have a small amount of oil that leaks out of the pump but that is it. You will still be able to run the boat and steer the boat with out the pump and not get air into the system. When the pump is returned do the same procedure for reinstall. Once the pump is installed and all cables attached open valves and you back in service.

 

[AZtoVA]

So I don’t have to send back the valve manifolds?

 

[BB marine]

The valve manifold is actually designed so removal and repair of the pump can't be performed without disturbing the hydraulic system. If you are sending the pump in for repair or exchange I would send the pump. All the manifold consist of is bored oil passage ways and three needle valve for shut offs. I posted this in another topic.


Operating the Shutoff Valve
The 2.0 L and the 1.2 L pumps feature a shutoff valve for troubleshooting and repairing the system. To engage the shutoff valve and isolate the pump from the hydraulic system, fully tighten the three brass screws near the lower hydraulic connectors. To disengage the shutoff valve, loosen the three brass screws until they stop.

To remove the pump from the shutoff-valve manifold:
1. Tighten the three brass screws near the lower hydraulic connectors.
2. Remove the four socket-head cap screws that connect the manifold to the pump.
3. The manifold is no longer connected to the pump, and the pump can be disconnected from the ECU and removed from its mounting location. The hydraulic steering system will operate normally.

To reconnect the pump to the shutoff-valve manifold:
1. Remount the pump and reconnect the pump to the ECU.
2. Connect the manifold to the pump using the four socket-head cap screws.
3. Loosen the three brass screws near the lower hydraulic connectors until they stop. Do not loosen the screws past the stopping point.

This will save a lot of headaches