bad propshaft leak. what do I need to fix it? 2018 C30 435hp

S

serpa4

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2020
Messages
286
Fluid Motion Model
R-23 (Sterndrive)
Hull Identification Number
FMLC3051D818
Vessel Name
DayLo
MMSI Number
368173760
Im flowing water from my prop shaft. What part is needed to stop the leaking?
 
If you have a dripless shaft seal, it may just need adjusting. If you don't have one, you need to repack your packing gland.
 
serpa4":zc44zyu2 said:
Im flowing water from my prop shaft. What part is needed to stop the leaking?
Click to expand...

In the water ? On the trailer ?

If in the water and having water dripping in the bilge. You may have to snug up you're packing. Do your adjustments in small increments. I move no more than an 1/8 turn of packing nut at a time. Each 1/8 turn lock the nut ,start the engine and put it in gear and count the drips ( secure the boat well at the dock for this) The goal is about 3 drips a minute.

On the trailer and seeing water leaking out of the shaft log is normal. There is a raw water hose that is plumbed to the packing gland to help cool the gland and lubricate the cutlass bearing.
 
I've had sketchy service out in the lake. I haven't been able to upload a photo until now. It's not a drip it's a steady stream of water not even drips it's a stream of water. I've tightened the two bolts down very tight. Leaking water in a steady stream it's not dripping. I've tightened the two nuts down very tight but it continues to leak badly. I'm posting this for my cell phone so for some reason I cannot provide a link to the photo in my photo album of my shaft seal.
 
 
Looks like you may be out of travel. The packing should last much longer unless someone over tightened it and burned the packing. You may need to haul the boat and repack the gland. Normally you should get at least 1000 hrs out of packing if it is probably adjusted and maintained. Good luck with the project. It should not be that bad to do on a C30. It looks like you can get to it reasonably.
 
Since you tightened the stuffing box all the way in and water is still flowing, you need to repack the stuffing box. Google “boatus.com repack stuffing box” and you will find the similar type of stuffing box installed on your boat with instruction on how to repack it. Doing it in the water, especially if this is the first time, can be somewhat exciting with the water flowing in once you pull the stuffing box apart. If you are not comfortable doing it in the water either have the boat hauled or find an experienced mechanic. I assume the bilge pump is working overtime, keep the battery charge on with shore power.
 
Our stuffing box is leaking at the right rate and the tightening nut (Buck Algonquin type ?) still has a way to go. We are at 900 hours and, as Brian says above, it’s a good idea to change out the packing at 1,000 hours. If the boat is on the trailer how long a task is this for a first time endeavor? Should I plan on all day if I have all the new packing materials handy?
 
That would depend on how easy the old packing comes out! Be sure to have a packing removal tool it looks like a small cork screw on a flexible rod with a T-handel (can be ordered from Amazon for about $15. Good luck Bob
 
serpa4":73gsvffv said:
Im flowing water from my prop shaft. What part is needed to stop the leaking?
Click to expand...

Hello,

From the description you are giving the packing gland needs new packing, also depending on how long and how tight the packing gland has been it could have done some damage to the shaft itself. Would be a good idea to have that area inspected while doing the packing gland. Hope this helps.

Thanks,
 
Kevin Lamont":3gx0o9uh said:
serpa4":3gx0o9uh said:
Im flowing water from my prop shaft. What part is needed to stop the leaking?
Click to expand...

Hello,

From the description you are giving the packing gland needs new packing, also depending on how long and how tight the packing gland has been it could have done some damage to the shaft itself. Would be a good idea to have that area inspected while doing the packing gland. Hope this helps.

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Thanks. I will be doing the pulling and inspection next week. It's on the trailer now.
I'll be calling today to order the parts.
What damage should I look for?
 
I cannot get through to FM. My work phone is not allowing me to call 800 numbers.
I see several packing removal tools on Amazon.
What size do I need?
a) Palmetto 1100 Packing Extractor, Flexible Shaft, Non-Removeable tip, Size F-0, 6-1/2 inch Length, for Packing Sizes 1/8 & up
b) Palmetto 1101 Packing Extractor, Flexible Shaft, Removeable tip, Size F-1, 7-1/2 inch Length, for Packing Sizes 1/4 & up
c) Palmetto 1102 Packing Extractor, Flexible Shaft, Removeable tip, Size F-2, 11 inches Length, for Packing Sizes 3/8 & up

Seems they are based on packing size: 1/8" and up, 1/4" and up, and 3/8" and up.
Also, do I need a spanner wrench? I see no large nuts to undo, but maybe under the robber boot? Not sure, have not done this before.
 
serpa4":2qu5oeqs said:
I cannot get through to FM. My work phone is not allowing me to call 800 numbers.
I see several packing removal tools on Amazon.
What size do I need?
a) Palmetto 1100 Packing Extractor, Flexible Shaft, Non-Removeable tip, Size F-0, 6-1/2 inch Length, for Packing Sizes 1/8 & up
b) Palmetto 1101 Packing Extractor, Flexible Shaft, Removeable tip, Size F-1, 7-1/2 inch Length, for Packing Sizes 1/4 & up
c) Palmetto 1102 Packing Extractor, Flexible Shaft, Removeable tip, Size F-2, 11 inches Length, for Packing Sizes 3/8 & up

Seems they are based on packing size: 1/8" and up, 1/4" and up, and 3/8" and up.
Also, do I need a spanner wrench? I see no large nuts to undo, but maybe under the robber boot? Not sure, have not done this before.
Click to expand...

Hello,

The damage or wear you would be looking for are grooves or burn marks in the shaft where it rides on the packing gland. I use these picks when doing packing glands, small enough to work in tight areas. You don't need a spanner wrench to perform this job. For packing size I usually get it out and compare at the local marine store. Hope this helps.

Thanks,
 
Unfortunately I live in the desert. No boat stores here! I'm in New Mexico. I have to drive/tow 750 miles one way to use my C30.
I'll have to call FM to get the packing size and then the tool to pull it out. I do have a lot of picks already though.
I end up doing a lot of projects on the trailer, then make an ocean run every other month.
Been to Fl keys this years, 5,000 miles round trip and to Lake Powell about 1500 round trip.
Got some more FL trips in May, June, July!!!
 
I called FM. I spoke with a nice lady there, but she didn't sound confident. She stated it was 1/8" packing. This sounds really thin. Sorry if this comes across as chauvinist, not my intent.
Can anyone confirm the size?
Is it round or square?

Thanks.
 
Serpa-4 though you live far from any marine supply dealers not to worry about the packing it is carried at any pump supply outfit or order on line it's inexpensive and you could order more than one size and whatever you don't use return for a refund. The most common size is usually 1/4 inch as far as the packing removal tool get two different sizes and return the one not used. Look in your local phone book under pump repair and they will have what you need for the packing job!
Good luck and it's not that bad of a job! You may need a little emery cloth to clean the shaft if needed
Bob
 
Any where there is a wastewater plant or a water plant with large pumps there will be a repair parts source they use. That source will have the tools and the packing choices. Using the marine-how-to-article to choose your materials, you should have no problem getting what you need. You can probably call a treatment plant and ask to talk to the maintenance supervisor if you do not know where they are getting their parts and supplies. :idea:
 
Packing ordered and a tool. I'll do this next week.
Any suggestions on how to tighten the two bolts? I have double stacked nuts on mine. Is this factor or from the prevous owner?

I think I'll have to float the boat on the trailer and then fire up the engine and see the leakage and tighten/loosen from there based on drip rate.
 
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