Basic Electrics

[LADY JANE]

What are the most common electrical additions made on a new 21ec?

 

[SGIDAVE]

What are the most common electrical additions made on a new 21ec?

Hello LJ,

I've made more than the average 21EC owner....here is a partial list...

-added fans at the helm (2)

-reading lights to v-berth

-added an on/off switch to the refer; so I can turn it off at night without opening it up to turn the dial

-relocated the Thruster on/off switch so it faces aft and can be accessed without lifting up v-berth cushion

-relocated the HOUSE on/off switch so you don't have to get down on your knees and reach up inside console to use it (PICS in my album of these last two items)

-install raw water washdown pump

-install second bilge pump

-install Autopilot

-clean up wiring under engine cover; my boat had factory AC which the original owner didn't like - he had it removed; so I moved changed the 'house' batteries to 2 x 6V and moved to port/aft (former location of AC batteries); didn't need the TWO ACRs anymore so removed one, etc, etc...

-If I can't be on the water, I LIKE working on my boat. More to follow...

Fair winds and tinned wire,

david

 

[LADY JANE]

David, Wow! Your electrical additions to your boat are mind blowing! Just today, I got the new 4/15/'15 edition of "Boating" mag, and on the last page there is a write up by David Steidman on this very subject of (Tugnuts) adding electrical stuff to their boats. The idea is to "Cut, Chop, & Drill and when you've finished, the boat will be yours in a way that no registration card or payment stub can attest to." So, the more & more practical ideas we get here in "TUGNUTS", the more personalized our RangerTugs will get. To approach each of these electrical projects correctly, the article suggests reading Boating Mags' Book, "Powerboater's Guide to Electrical Systems." - by Ed Sherman. Think we"ll look that one up. - Bill & Jane

 

[LADY JANE]

Anyone know of any "Saltwater-proof dielectric grease"?

 

[LADY JANE]

My next important upgrade will be to the helm of our R-21EC. It will bethe Installation of a small, basic, voltmeter routed to the Starter Battery Switch.

When fishing offshore for a few hrs, with the engine shutdown, a pre-start Voltage Check is a critical part of the engine check. Especially when analyzing any other possible starting malfunctions.

- Bill

 

[SGIDAVE]

My next important upgrade will be to the helm of our R-21EC. It will bethe Installation of a small, basic, voltmeter routed to the Starter Battery Switch.

When fishing offshore for a few hrs, with the engine shutdown, a pre-start Voltage Check is a critical part of the engine check. Especially when analyzing any other possible starting malfunctions.

- Bill

Hello Bill,

YES - it's good to know your battery's voltages.

Question: Are your 'house' and 'start' battery isolated from each other? Meaning, when you are out fishing, etc for a few hours, the onboard ACR has opened, thus electrically separating your batteries. Right?

If YES, also consider adding an LED at the helm which will signal the condition of your ACR. If ON, it means the ACR is closed (batteries connected as one bank...expect this condition when underway, for instance); if LED is OFF, it means the ACR is open (batteries isolated from each other). Thus, that little LED tells you your start battery SHOULD be as it was when you turned off the engine.

A voltage monitor is nice too, but if you note your start battery is LOW after fishing several hours (perhaps due to malfunctioned ACR?) it's too late to rectify the situation. Whereas, if you had noted 30 minutes into your stop that the LED was still ON, you could have investigated and taken action to preserve your start battery.

The LED helps you FORESEE and maybe prevent a problem. The voltage monitor lets you know you HAVE a problem.

Fair winds and full start batteries!

dave

 

[sheral]

Some great mods! I like the idea of moving the ‘house battery switch.’ Why they put it where they did from the factory, makes absolutely no sense. :?:

 

[LADY JANE]

I agree, the hidden Main Electrical Switch located out of sight / out of mind, bolted under the mattress, to the bed frame, behind the foot of the bed is tough to get at.
Disconnect the battery and switch leads. Removing the switch assembly from the inner bed frame board and CUTTING a Round *door-plug hole (with a 45 degree angled blade; Not with a straight-on hole saw) through the original mount location is to gain access to the "flipped switch". The hole-diameter needs to be cut to the same measurement/length as the switch-Dial or "KNOB" allowing It to show through & be accessible to the helmsman. The switch will be mounted securely to the INSIDE-Back of a new, DIY, fabricated, 3-piece, wooden C-bracket switch enclosure that looks like=" [ " or C-frame. Mounting the " [ " C-frame with the switch mounted inside, will straddle across the access hole, making the bracket-feet ready for mountnuts. Note: A bottom hinged reverse-flap door (one that swings open-down, not opens-up) could be made from the matching *door-plug cutout.
Reattach the wires to the switch & battery. Ops check. Most of us don't want to extend any wire lengths or rewire somethings that don't need to. That's why just "FLIPPING The SWITCH" clear around and cutting an access hole is so doable in this case. This is a collection of Tugnuts inputs for gaining access to this basic electrical switch. More suggestions, corrections, additions, and ideas are welcome.
Thank you, again-
-Bill- & the Lady Jane