Battery replacement, 2013 R21 EC

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Stewartn

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Jul 22, 2018
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Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C (Sterndrive)
Think the two (2) batteries on my 2013 R21are OEM. They are now probably 6 yrs old and ready for replacement. Both batteries are identical. Label(s) say, "sealed, 800 cca, ,1000 mca" Both group 24. Would like a factory recommendation for replacement. Thx
stewartn@optonline.net
 
I recently replaced my two batteries after 6 years of use as well. I took the old ones out, went to the Interstate Battery store down the road and got two news ones with the same power. Easy switch out.
 
If your batteries were OEM 2013, they were likely Centennial Brand flooded cell units. You probably will not find a distributor for them that far east. As suggested, just find a quality group 24 flooded cell with similar AMP ratings and go with them. Obviously the charger/maintenance set up was appropriate given the life you got from the OEM units. I just replaced mine( a 2013) this year also. Six or 7 seasons on a flooded cell is a very good run.

If you switch to a different type unit like an AGM or Gel, program the charger( if appropriate) to match the type.

PS....you may want to label your wires when you pull the batteries......
 
DEFINITELY label your wires before removing the batteries. Good point Catch22.
Cheers,
Karl
 
I have to echo Capt'nKarls advice, definitely label everything. A couple of pics of the battery terminals before disconnecting the wires is helpful.
Having just replaced the OEM (2010 vintage) Group 31 AGM batteries with new Group 27 AGM batteries on my 2011 R27, I shortened a couple of cables, cleaned up some of the cable routing and replaced a lot of old sticky/gooey electrical tape with new heat shrink and lightened the load in the battery compartment. The port list on my boat is now less pronounced. The notional weight difference is probably about 40 pounds. Of course, humping eight 60/70 pound batteries up and down the dock was a fun event.
 
Great points Trisailor. And while you have all the cables off the posts throughly clean the ends of the cables with some emery paper and check the lug connection to make sure it’s tight and not corroded. After replacing the cables on the posts and tightening up everything I also apply a small amount of dielectric grease. As the saying goes, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Cheers,
Karl
 
Thanks Karl. I did exactly as you mention, clean the cable lugs and ensure the connections are tight. I usually pass on the dielectric grease, but ensure the cable connections are "sealed" with battery post sealant (the red sticky stuff). The goal is to prevent the green corrosion forming as water or condensation drips down from the scuppers/hatch over the tops of the batteries. The old batteries were not treated that way and the posts and cable lugs were pretty ugly looking.
 
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