SKing
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2022
- Messages
- 100
- Fluid Motion Model
- C-30 CB
- Hull Identification Number
- USFMLC30C11
- Vessel Name
- Fusako
I used Coastal Marine in Seattle to change my belts. I told them I would like to learn so that if I am in a remote area and needed too, I could change them on my own and get home. Martin, the owner was understanding and willing to give me a tech that could walk through the process with me as he did the work. Fantastic attitudes and great customer service. Also, at the end of the job Daniel the mechanic answered some other questions I had about Volvo components and service times etc. Daniel was great, knowledgeable and willing to share information. He has done a bunch of Cutwaters with D6 motors, so he was efficient with his time, which is always appreciated since it was time and materials.
What I learned as I watched and assisted in the belt change. First, even though I have worked with tools all my career, (40 yrs as an elevator mechanic) I would gladly have them change the belts when it is time again. Because of limited access the process involves 2 people at the final stage of the installation and having an experienced mechanic that has done the job before always makes things go smoother and eliminates additional problems later.
To make things easier remove the board in the fire wall that the diesel heater mounts to, (inside the access for freshwater tank and fuel tank). I did not need to disconnect the heater fuel lines. I was careful and tipped the board at a 40 deg angle. With this removed you can see better and access 50% of the things you need to get to. At this time take a few pictures so that you can get everything back in place correctly.
To get the first belt off you need to loosen the tension sheave. There are 2 bolts in this sheave. The one that is in the adjustment slot must remain installed! (This bolt also holds the alternator in place. Removing it will make your job harder when you need to reinstall it since the alternator will move out of alignment with the bolt hole. Remove the bolt that is in the pivot hole. This allows the sheave to rotate further so you can remove the belt.
The second belt needs a Volvo tension remover tool. It hooks inside the tension sheave and over the alternator. Then you tighten the nut which pulls back the tension sheave. As you pull, the tool will want to slide out of the sheave. Taping it back in occasionally as you tighten will help solve this problem. To remove the belt, you will need to remove an idler sheave that is in the way. With the belt off check all the belts and sheaves for wear, spin the idler sheaves to make sure the bearings spin freely.
Install the first belt and release the “tension tool”
The second belt requires 2 people and the right tool in order to tension the belt correctly. After getting the belt on, install the bolt you removed from the tensioner. Make sure that the spacer that is behind the tension bracket is rotated back up in the correct orientation so that the bolt passes through the spacer! Failure to do this will cause the belt to rub the crank shaft sheave.
To correctly tension this sheave, you need 2 people. One laying on the motor with a special torque wrench. The wrench the mechanic had beeped and vibrated if he was holding the correct tension on the sheave bracket. This was needed since you can’t see the torque readout when using it. He had to hold the correct tension for approx. 3 min while the second person (me) tightened the sheave bracket bolts to the correct torque). Since the torque wrench had a limited throw in the awkward space we were working in, it took longer to get the bolts tightened).
After checking for rags and tools etc. start the motor and monitor the belts as you idle and rev the motor to make sure there is no slippage, rubbing etc.
When done right by an experienced mechanic there is no swearing or frustration. And the tight space that you are working in is a minimal liability. The belt change was done in under 2 hrs. Total billing was 3 hrs. to allow for set up and engine software updates. So don’t struggle with the belt change yourself and hire someone that has done this before! I strongly recommend Danial at Coastal Marine.
What I learned as I watched and assisted in the belt change. First, even though I have worked with tools all my career, (40 yrs as an elevator mechanic) I would gladly have them change the belts when it is time again. Because of limited access the process involves 2 people at the final stage of the installation and having an experienced mechanic that has done the job before always makes things go smoother and eliminates additional problems later.
To make things easier remove the board in the fire wall that the diesel heater mounts to, (inside the access for freshwater tank and fuel tank). I did not need to disconnect the heater fuel lines. I was careful and tipped the board at a 40 deg angle. With this removed you can see better and access 50% of the things you need to get to. At this time take a few pictures so that you can get everything back in place correctly.
To get the first belt off you need to loosen the tension sheave. There are 2 bolts in this sheave. The one that is in the adjustment slot must remain installed! (This bolt also holds the alternator in place. Removing it will make your job harder when you need to reinstall it since the alternator will move out of alignment with the bolt hole. Remove the bolt that is in the pivot hole. This allows the sheave to rotate further so you can remove the belt.
The second belt needs a Volvo tension remover tool. It hooks inside the tension sheave and over the alternator. Then you tighten the nut which pulls back the tension sheave. As you pull, the tool will want to slide out of the sheave. Taping it back in occasionally as you tighten will help solve this problem. To remove the belt, you will need to remove an idler sheave that is in the way. With the belt off check all the belts and sheaves for wear, spin the idler sheaves to make sure the bearings spin freely.
Install the first belt and release the “tension tool”
The second belt requires 2 people and the right tool in order to tension the belt correctly. After getting the belt on, install the bolt you removed from the tensioner. Make sure that the spacer that is behind the tension bracket is rotated back up in the correct orientation so that the bolt passes through the spacer! Failure to do this will cause the belt to rub the crank shaft sheave.
To correctly tension this sheave, you need 2 people. One laying on the motor with a special torque wrench. The wrench the mechanic had beeped and vibrated if he was holding the correct tension on the sheave bracket. This was needed since you can’t see the torque readout when using it. He had to hold the correct tension for approx. 3 min while the second person (me) tightened the sheave bracket bolts to the correct torque). Since the torque wrench had a limited throw in the awkward space we were working in, it took longer to get the bolts tightened).
After checking for rags and tools etc. start the motor and monitor the belts as you idle and rev the motor to make sure there is no slippage, rubbing etc.
When done right by an experienced mechanic there is no swearing or frustration. And the tight space that you are working in is a minimal liability. The belt change was done in under 2 hrs. Total billing was 3 hrs. to allow for set up and engine software updates. So don’t struggle with the belt change yourself and hire someone that has done this before! I strongly recommend Danial at Coastal Marine.