Best way to remove prior naming decal?

B

bsaitz

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2021
Messages
65
Fluid Motion Model
C-302 SC
Hull Identification Number
WN1179SU
Vessel Name
Cheers
MMSI Number
338353571
hi all

bought my boat used and want to rename, what's best method to remove the old name decals? heat gun and adhesive removal? any tips?

thanks
 
Sounds right on the mark. I use a heat gun, acetone and a plastic putty knife. Get the decal warm enough to peal a corner back pull slowly while adding just enough heat to release but not too much so it stretches and breaks. You can use a razor blade but need to be very careful not to scratch the boat.
 
The advantage of acetone is that it is gelcoat safe (even if used liberally). This is not true of all adhesive removers, and it is hard to know exactly what is in proprietary formulas to ensure they are gelcoat safe.

My experience removing the prior name from multiple boats is that the heat gun and the plastic razor are all you need to remove the lettering. It takes a little bit of practice, but once you get good at it the heat gun will let you pull up large swaths of the lettering at once by hand, once you've started a corner with the razor. Heat resistant gloves can be helpful here, but are a two-edged sword as you want to make sure you aren't getting the hull too hot!

The acetone is for after all the lettering is removed, to get rid of any residual adhesive on the gelcoat.
 
Thanks all!
 
For us, getting the prior name and registration number decals off the hull was the easy part. Just a plastic razor blade and some “goo gone” did the trick.
The hard part was buffing out the ghost left by the decals. On our dark blue hull the area under the lettering was much darker than the surrounding areas. Took lots of rubbing compound and polishing compound to exorcise the ghost!
Probably not so much an issue if the old name was on a white hull.
 
FlyMeAway":1lupuwwc said:
The advantage of acetone is that it is gelcoat safe (even if used liberally). This is not true of all adhesive removers, and it is hard to know exactly what is in proprietary formulas to ensure they are gelcoat safe.

My experience removing the prior name from multiple boats is that the heat gun and the plastic razor are all you need to remove the lettering. It takes a little bit of practice, but once you get good at it the heat gun will let you pull up large swaths of the lettering at once by hand, once you've started a corner with the razor. Heat resistant gloves can be helpful here, but are a two-edged sword as you want to make sure you aren't getting the hull too hot!

The acetone is for after all the lettering is removed, to get rid of any residual adhesive on the gelcoat.
Click to expand...

I have never had any problems using 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner on gelcoat but whatever works for you.
Thanks.
 
scross is exactly right. I just compounded my transom for the 3rd time and I can still see the old name. More work to do and it's getting lettered tomorrow.
Good luck,
Randy
 
WD 40 works also.
KKRCRACE
 
I am currently an automotive technology teacher but have as worked in the field for many years prior and have removed thousands of decals and stickers. I agree that the use of a heat gun and plastic razor blade works very well as the first step. However, no matter how well everything comes off, it will always leave what we call a 'signature'. To address the signature I would always soak the area with WD-40 and work it in with a microfiber cloth. If the signature was not gone after that, I would use a white polishing compound (paste) or liquid compound with an electric buffer. You than need to follow up with a polish which could be applied by hand. The next important step that most people neglect is to use a glaze. The glaze will fill in any surface imperfections and will provide amazing optical qualities, neutralizing the signature and surrounding area. Finally, lock in your results with a coat of good paste wax. Ranger Tug recommends Collonite which I have used with great success. But all the other steps I mentioned here; compound, polish, glaze, and waxes, I use Meguiars or Mothers products which are available at any automotive supply store.
 
Great info JRM1952. Thanks!
 
agree, thanks RJM1953!
 
RJM1953,

What glaze do you use? I am not familiar with that and need to address some ghosting of previous name.

Thanks
 
I apologize for my tardiness in getting back to you Salmon Fisher but I have been away on business for a few days. That being said, I like to use Mothers Micro-Polishing Glaze. Meguiar's also makes a really good glaze that I have used with great success. Both Mothers and Meguiar's products are available in most auto parts stores as well as Walmarts. You can also get them both on Amazon. Either brand of glaze can be applied by hand or with an electric buffer. Glaze is a very misunderstood product. People think that right after they use compound and buff out any irregularities; scrapes, scratches, and sticker signatures, they can just apply a coat of wax. Not so..! In a perfect world you would want to than apply a polish. After that, you should use a glaze. The glaze with fill and hide any imperfections in the paint and create optical reflectivity that is absolutely amazing. Finally, a coat of wax will 'lock in' the shine and provide protection. It is really the glaze that will 'level' the surface such as when removing decals and stickers and provide a fantastic shine after it is finally sealed with a good wax. Once your boat is prepared this way and you use a less invasive boat soap such as Starbrite Sea Safe Boat Wash, you will not have to repeat all the steps every season but can usually get away with just an application of glaze and wax, or sometimes just wax! I have professionally restored classic vehicles for many years, both for myself and my customers, and the process is the same. My R-31 CB shines like a fine diamond, and although this process is somewhat labor intensive, my shine and level of protection rivals that of ceramic coatings and I don't have to shell out in and around $4,000.00 + for the ceramic (East Coast pricing).
 
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