Bilge pump & Batteries

[none]

Today I had Danca 29' Tug move to a indoor garage out of the water for the Winter. The bilge pump under the drive shaft kept running I turned all the main breakers off and it kept running I couldn't figure out how to turn it off finally ended up cutting the + wire I didn't see a float switch and it is not easy to get to under the drive shaft, anyone have an answer to this one.
Like I mentioned earlier I turned all 4 main breaker off. With out having power to the chargers will my batteries be OK until April 2011.
Jens Jensen Quadra Island BC Canada

 

[RProffer]

A wiring schematic for the R29 is not posted so I cannot tell you exactly how your boat is wired. Normally the bilge pump is wired directly to a battery or battery buss so that it will always have power, even though the battery switches have been turned off. This is so the bilge pump will work in the event the boat is in the water and you spring a leak or water gets into the boat by some other means such as a storm. I do not know why your bilge pump kept running. I assume it was not actually pumping water. Some bilge pumps have an external float. Most pumps have an internal float. Floats can get gunked up with crud. Sometimes, you can tap on the side of the float/pump to knock the the float loose. If the float is sticking, you can sometimes take it apart and clean it. If you do clean it, watch it closely there after to make sure it works properly.

 

[knotflying]

It sounds to me like the float was stuck. Bilge pumps have also gotten more sophisticated and the newer ones have a small computer chip that is programed to cycle the pump regularly and if it does not detect water it will then turn off. Perhaps you caught it during this cycle and thought it was just running.

 

[captain's cat]

Bilge pumps that are wired directly to the battery (with one wire, they have three usually) "always" have a fuse in that wire, generally very close to the battery. With the quality and attention that Ranger uses in their construction, I'm sure they would do nothing different. Take a look at the colors of the wires at the pump, one of the three most assuredly runs to a battery directly. Find a wire with that color that is wired directly to a battery and see if there isn't a fuse in a holder in close proximity.

As for the battery question, if they were fully charged, they should be OK through the winter. If they were partially discharged, you should charge them fully prior to disconnecting the boat from power (they might freeze)). You didn't say if the indoor space was heated at all, that would make a big difference. I doubt though that any space large enough for a 29' tug is heated however...


Charlie

 

[Stella Maris]

The inline fuse for this bilge pump is located up near the battery switches. It is labeled. If you need a picture of the location, let me know. Once the sun comes up, I will take one for you.

 

[Zuma]

I have had runaway bilge pump a couple of times. Have also cut wires in frustration. Cause was always crud, plastic, fiberglass and general garbage blocking the intake screen. Now if it happens I merely turn out the pump cartridge and wipe off the bottom without turning off the bilge. Also have taken the time to vacuum out the engine compartment to eliminate some of the junk (mostly from construction) falling into the bilge.

 

[Spirit of Gratitude]

I have never been a real big fan of the Johnson pumps. We replaced ours with the Whale supersub 650. They work great!

Here is a link. http://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product_list/8/142/

 

[none]

Thanks to all of you for replies I now know what to look for.
Jens

 

[JohnH]

I own an R21-EC, but I assume the wiring and operation of the bildge pump is generally the same. As others have said, the pump is wired directly to the battery. There should be an in-line fuse near the battery, which can be pulled as a less drastic shut-off than cutting the wire.

The "float switch" on my pump is actually an electronic sensor. In my installation, it is a small black plastic box that is separate from the pump, but nearby. The water level sensors are 2 small circles whose outline you can feel with your fingers; they are arranged one above the other to sense when to start the pump (higher one) and when to turn it off (lower one). The sensors are designed so that if you put your fingers over both of them, the pump will run. I also have experienced a continuously running pump. The solution seems to be to clean the surfaces of these sensors. I have done so by simply wiping my fingers over them. I suspect that slime or something collects on the sensors and holds enough moisture to fool them into thinking the bildge needs pumping.

-- John H

 

[abcandjrc]

JohnH: I haven't dug into the details of our bilge pump since we have only had the boat a week, but I think electronics are replacing almost all the old electro-mechanical switches. Since even fresh water is a fairly good conductor, it is possible those round sensors could just be the two poles of an open electronic switch. Water would complete the circuit and trigger the pump. Probably even a finger would close the circuit, as you described. I'd bet a piece of wire would too.

I have several water alarms in my house; under the washing machine, under the air conditioner air make-up unit, and in the pan under the water heater that is inside the house. The detector for those looks like what you describe. Two shiny metal surfaces about 1/2" in diameter about 1/2" apart. Bridging them fires the alarm.

Seeing your location, it is possible traces of salt accumulate on the glass between the poles and retain or gather enough moisture to trigger the pump. If that is the case, an occasional rinse with fresh water should clear the circuit for a while, too.