Bilge pumps don't work automatically

H

HamsterMike

Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2021
Messages
14
Fluid Motion Model
R-29 Classic
Vessel Name
Aurora
Anybody have this issue? I have a 2010 R29, and the bilge pumps only work manually.
 
If you have the Johnson pump(red) there is a float switch attached to pump that you can replace. I just changed the entire pump with auto sensing Rule pump.
 
With the Rule pumps it seems to be a common issue that the auto sensing goes out but they still work manually. May be fixable, but I just replaced mine.
 
Keep in mind, there‘s likely a second fuse (besides the breaker switch you are using to operate it manually.). In my R31 is is a 5A fuse in the “always on” block of fuses along with the CO monitor. If something jammed the impeller in the past, it will cause this fuse to blow but the manual operation will still work.
 
Haifisch said:
Keep in mind, there‘s likely a second fuse (besides the breaker switch you are using to operate it manually.). In my R31 is is a 5A fuse in the “always on” block of fuses along with the CO monitor. If something jammed the impeller in the past, it will cause this fuse to blow but the manual operation will still work.
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I second this. I was blowing a few 5amp fuses a day. I ended up replacing the pump cartridge and now it works automatically and I haven't blown a single fuse since.
 
Hi Mike,
The cave is the mid-ship berth. On the newer R29s there are fuse panels at the aft end of the cave
 
gswearin said:
Hi Mike,
The cave is the mid-ship berth. On the newer R29s there are fuse panels at the aft end of the cave
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Hi Gary. I'm not seeing anything there. My boat is a 2010 R29. Any ideas?
 
Do you have the manual? That might show the fuse panel locations. I didn't see one on the Ranger website. There is a video that you might be able to glimpse where it is. On my boat all of the back half of the boat functions are in the aft fuse blocks and the front half in the head if that helps.
 
In this post he mentions having the manual, maybe you can get a copy?
F

Thread 'Battery Wiring Not In Accordance Wtih Owner's Manual'

I've noticed that some of my battery wiring is not in accordance with the R29 Classic owner's manual wiring diagram. I know my batteries have been changed at least once since being commissioned in 2011 so I won't bore everyone with the details of how my batteries are wired. But I can question why the wiring to and from the two charge relays are not IAW the owners manual. I have two charging relays, One is for the House/Starter batteries and the second is for the Thruster/Starter batteries. The house/starter relay is wired correctly but the Thruster/Starter battery is not wired IAW the...
 
On my classic R27 the bilge pump fuses are right below the red colored, round, battery rotary switches in in-line rubber/plastic fuse holders. Perhaps the older R29s are similar.
 
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HamsterMike said:
Anybody have this issue? I have a 2010 R29, and the bilge pumps only work manually.
Click to expand...

BILGE PUMP WILL NOT AUTOMATICALLY PUMP: The float switch is a rectangular shaped device on the side of the pump. Don't do what we did and assume the switch is dead. Check the fuse first which is located next to the house battery switch under the port side cockpit storage on the wall and next to the inverter. It is a 5 amp fuse. After finding it, use a label maker and make an easy to find label. This float switch can be tested by removing it from the slot mount and depressing the two circles. If this switch is covered with oil, clean it the outside and this may solve the problem.

Copied from “Andiamo, a Ranger Tug”. Lots of good info for R 29 Classic.
 
American Flyer said:
BILGE PUMP WILL NOT AUTOMATICALLY PUMP: The float switch is a rectangular shaped device on the side of the pump. Don't do what we did and assume the switch is dead. Check the fuse first which is located next to the house battery switch under the port side cockpit storage on the wall and next to the inverter. It is a 5 amp fuse. After finding it, use a label maker and make an easy to find label. This float switch can be tested by removing it from the slot mount and depressing the two circles. If this switch is covered with oil, clean it the outside and this may solve the problem.

Copied from “Andiamo, a Ranger Tug”. Lots of good info for R 29 Classic.
Click to expand...
 
Here is a picture of the fuse block I think you are referring to. The upper left fuse is a 3A, and I don't know what it is connected to. The owner's manual does not show a fuse in this location. In fact, the owner's manual does not show any fuses for the bilge pumps. Do you think this is the fuse for the bilge pumps? The fuse is good, I replaced it just to be sure. If so, then the float switch must be stuck, like you say.
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I don’t know about the 29 but on the 25 and 27 of that era the auto fuses are by the battery switches. You can see in the photo the fuse holders in front of the thruster switch that I have removed. The bilge pumps they were installing at that time would power up every few minutes to test for water. There was no separate float switch.
IMG_5320.jpeg
 
Or....In my ' 09 RT 25 the bilge pump fuses are in-line and connected to the terminal block next to the batteries. Since they are NOT controlled by any of the battery switches, they are getting power upstream of the battery switch(s). Same with the CO detector. They are in rectangular black fuse holders in line in the power wire to the pump and power the automatic function. you can see a cluster of them in the photo in the previous post under the Thruster Battery Switch. The breaker controls the continuous ON/OFF which bypasses the level sensor so they can be tested or used if the level sensor does not work. In mine these are right under the hatch in the battery compartment. My understanding is they needed to be accessible to disconnect the draw when the boat is stored dry with the batteries connected to prevent discharge, but must be powered if the boat is floating with the battery switches turned off. Mine are labeled "BP-1" and "BP-2" but I do not know if the labels were factory or put in later. They are probably more than 3 amp, can't get at my boat right now to check, but I would think 5 to 10 amps.
 
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