bilge pumps

[kskogerson]

Have a R29 sitting in Oxnard CA at a marina and left the vessel in the water from end of Jan til this weekend. Checked the bilge and significant water was in the bilge. I flipped the bilge switches and emptied the water but my question is why didn't the bilge switches work? I left the battery switches on since I was connected to shore power. What am I missing?

 

[CAPTCRUNCH]

This won't solve your puzzle, but your story reminds me to put an hour meter on the bilge pump power feed so the readings before and after my absences will serve as a telltale. Reminds me of the old saw that there's no more effective bilge bailer than a man with a bucket standing in water up to his knees. Good luck.

 

[pugtug613]

You have to get to the switch. Try and actuate the switch by hand. (lift up the pedal) Next look at the connections. Are they corroded? Give them a little tug at the butt connections and see if they come apart. If the switch does not actuate and the connections seem OK, get a new switch. They don't last forever. The last one I bought came with a 5 yr warrantee.

 

[Osprey]

My experience is for a R27 but I expect your tug is much the same in this regard. The pumps have two power circuits, one via the manual helm mounted switches and the second via the automatic bilge mounted electronic water sensing switches. I found that on my boat the fuses for the automatic switches were blown. The result is the pumps could only be manually activated. Check with the manuals supplied with the tug to learn how to verify the automatic on option and visually check the spade fuses for there circuits. On my boat these fuses are located near the battery switches. All the wires at this location are clearly labeled.

 

[sleepyboat]

My R 27 is a 2011 and I have had to replace both the high water bilge pump and high water alarm sensors (pump and alarm tested fine). There seems to be many failing as I have had this conversation with other owners. The units in question are black next to the pump and have two rings molded into the housing, that when you take a wet finger and touch both at the same time (one is inside the other) the pump or alarm with activate. Try and keep them clean and free of and oil or other bilge crud that may develop. Hope this helps.
John

 

[LADYBUG TOO]

The same problem occurred on our R-29. We replaced the electronic switches with Rule float switches and haven't had a problem since. The aft switch required reversing the factory installation of the Johnson pump and its discharge. We mounted the rule switch just forward of the pump. The Rule float snaps into a base mount so it is easy to remove if need be. The wiring is simple. Just follow the existing switch leads, cut them, and use butt connectors to wire in the Rule or whatever brand you choose. The panel switches are parallel and fed from a different battery connection on our R-29 but they may have changed that on yours.

Pat & Carolyn, Ladybug, Too

 

[HRowland]

I also have the Johnson (now SPX company) "Ultima" electronic bilge switches on both pumps and the alarm. After reading about problems a couple of years ago I have been periodically testing them. It can take 3-5 seconds for the pump or alarm to activate when both sensor rings are covered by your fingers. When you remove your top finger the pump should continue to run. Once you remove your finger from the bottom sensor the pump should run several more seconds then shut off.

As already stated the sensor ring areas need to be clean of oil or gunk for the switch to work properly.

Howard

 

[j&lgray]

Take it from my recent experience, the fuse was blown.

The lesson: know where the fuse is, have spares, and check the boat regularly or have it checked for you. These tugs have a host of complex systems (and in the water where the environment will affect them) and their degree of monitoring and maintenance is higher than anything I have ever owned.

 

[Salish Rover]

Just replaced the Salish Rovers bilge pump last weekend, 1st issue ever, cleaned gummy switch, new pump installed, all is well. Suggest carrying 5 amp blade fuse for the switch circuit (easy to find and check) and a spare pump (very inexpensive). Great insurance.

 

[kskogerson]

Thanks for all. Kenny called from the factory and confirmed the fuses. New boat but goes to show that all isn't always infallible. Great support as always.

 

[The Masons]

How on earth does a person rech the forward bilge pump? I have a 2013 R27 with the Volvo engine and I cannot see how to get to the pump. I apologize ahead of time if this is a simple answer 🙂 Thanks.

 

[knotflying]

I have the R-27 with the Yanmar. To check the sensor I can reach down the port side in front of the alternator and touch the contact points. To replace things you need to access it from the cabin and remove the engine panel and then access through the step hatch.

 

[The Masons]

Thanks - everything is a compromise when dealing with compactness. I'll see if I can reach it from the side and/or front. I appreciate the tips.

 

[Rwnorton]

To the Masons
You’ve probably figured this by now, but today I wanted to prove to myself that my fwd bilge pump worked (R27 2016). Removing the port side engine cowling allowed me to get my hand on the sensor buttons that I could not otherwise reach.