black plastic trim

[Chris Hughes]

The black plastic trimthat is used around the cabin door and deck edge on my 2005 ranger 21 is cracked and broken in several places. Where can I find suitable replacement material. Jut for your info. I am located on Long Island,N.Y.Thanks,Chris

 

[turtlesmaster]

I have a 2005 R-21, and live in Maine. I have experienced similar brake down of the black plastic trim blocks along the edge of the deck. I attribute the cracking to contraction of plastic during the winter's deep cold. Probably doesn't help that counter-sunk screw heads may be acting like wedges to split the plastic. Most of my problems are ends which have broken off where the double screw holes line up. Any suggestions for repair or replacement? Are there others with similar problems? Maybe we could have some made up and split the cost of "custom" manufacture . . .

 

[tlkenyon]

I have EXACTLY the same problem. The countersunk screws look to be too close together. I will share the of making a pattern for replacements.....maybe some nice teak, or maybe mahogany?

 

[Kenny Marrs]

Hello Chris,

I haven't seen this before. Can you please send me some photos, kennymarrs@rangertugs.com. The plastic is an HD PE plastic that we purchase in a 4'x8' sheet.

Thanks,
-Kenny

 

[tlkenyon]

I sent a photo to Kenny showing the issue....any reply from him will be interesting.

 

[tlkenyon]

I posted a couple of photos in my photo album...Nellie May

 

[tuggertoy]

On our 2006 R-21 Classic we have been suffering the same fate. One by one the the black StarBoard polymer fiddles on the foot rail have been cracking, especially at the ends. As mentioned, the counter sunk flat head screws are likely acting as a wedge. The clearance or pilot holes that were drilled through this material were also undersized and the shank of the screw is causing stress as it passes through the StarBoard material as well. We have lost several pieces and I recently purchased a piece of this material from Interstate Plastics. I was planning to make some templates from the old pieces and machining some new ones from these templates. It would be much easier to use a copy of the Ranger factory templates if they still exist.

Kenny, could you look into this? I would be willing to pay the shipping on a set of templates made from 1/4" plywood if the factory still has the originals.

Thanks,

Eric Fischer
Tugger Toy
2006 R-21 Classic

 

[tlkenyon]

I would be interested in getting a set of the rails (for lack of a better term) made from some more robust material. This would seem to be a problem that is endemic to all classic 21's and an economy of scale might apply.

 

[turtlesmaster]

I'd be open to exploring the cost of sharing the cost of making up some replacements, however I would like to suggest that the design be slightly changed. Eric is right- the holes should have been sized as clearance holes, so that the threads of the hardware do not engage in the plastic blocks at all. In addition, the relief for the screw heads should be a "spot face"- whose cross section is square and flat, rather than the current design's countersink- whose conical cross section allows the screw to act as a wedge, splitting the ends off. (Note that the suggested spot face requires use of pan head type screws whose heads would seat flat against the flat of the proposed countersink.) Another suggestion is that the blocks be bedded appropriately to fill any mismatch between the profile of the back side of the blocks and the actual contour of the deck to hull joint. This would also serve to seal the deck to hull joint as well. Any other suggestions?

 

[tlkenyon]

As much as I hate to say it (insert sound of sanding and smell of varnish)......maybe something with a grain to it to resist transverse cracking? Another thought is a sailboat-type perforated toe rail, which is always handy for attaching nearly anything, while providing robust hull/deck joint support. Maybe not the entire length, but select portions.

 

[tlkenyon]

Has anyone heard from the factory on this issue?

 

[tuggertoy]

Not yet.........

Eric
Tugger Toy
2006 R-21 Classic

 

[Andrew Custis]

After Kenny brought this to my attention, I went out to the shop and sorted through all of the old patterns. Unfortunately, we no longer have the patterns as our design has changed. The best bet to fix the trim pieces is to remove them and bring them to a wood working shop to see if they can make something up to match.
Any questions, feel free to contact us directly at the factory.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

Andrew Custis
(253)230-0727

 

[tlkenyon]

Thanks for the response.

 

[turtlesmaster]

Fellow R-21 Classic owners-
Some of us have experienced cracking and splitting of the black "plastic" molding/trim pieces which cover the seam between the hull and the side decks. (Five of the six long side-pieces plus the long piece across the stern, have this problem on my 2005 R-21, the Turtle!)

If you have experienced this problem, and are interested in possibly sharing the cost of having new ones made up, please contact me. I plan to make new pieces from 3/4" black, marine grade HDPE, and plan to use through holes which will be sufficiently over-sized to allow for the material to expand and contract as needed without cracking around the screw holes. My goal is to have the replacements look as close to the originals as possible. If several of us do this together, we may be able to recognize significant savings, and replace those eye sore trim.

One more question, has anyone had cracking or splitting with the trim pieces which wrap around the aft corners of the hull to deck seam?

 

[tlkenyon]

The problem on my boat exists for all the hull/deck joint trim, including the aft sections. I would gladly participate in the cost of any fix that is developed. I am sure that it a millwork provider is found, there will be an economy of scale if he makes a bunch of them instead of a bunch of one-off pieces.