boat sways at anchor

bill j

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2012
Messages
75
Fluid Motion Model
C-24 C
Non-Fluid Motion Model
CUTWATER 26
Vessel Name
OVERDUE
I have a 26ft Cutwater and when I anchor in a bay, the boat sways from side to side in large arcs which makes my wife a little seasick. I tried a briddle up front attached to both forward cleats on the bow but to no avail. Any suggestions other than securing the stern with an anchor or a rope to land? Would it help if secured the bridle to the middle cleats instead? I appreciate any suggestions - Bill
 
I was interested to see that equalizing the pull with a bridle hasn't really helped your problem - I've been contemplating making a bridle myself. We usually have kayaks on the roof so any wind or current moves us around. I think you are stuck with putting out a stern tie or anchor to solve the problem. Good excuse to wet the dinghy and/or stretch your legs I guess.
 
Assuming you have your bridle attached to chain? On Kismet we only have something like 30 feet of chain attached to rope rode. If this is also your case it would be more beneficial (less movement at anchor) if you had more chain to let out and that the bridle is long enough to let the chain lay as far in the water as possible, thereby helping to reduce movement as the chain is laying flatter onto the seabed. That said a stern anchor is very helpful.

Jim F
 
The stern anchor suggestion is the only way Ladybug, Too will hold steady. That being said, be careful not to forget about the stern anchor as it will certainly foul a prop (see related post about line in the prop.) We do not use a very heavy anchor but we do have a small amount of chain to help it.

Pat & Carolyn
Ladybug, Too
 
I've had issues with using a stern anchor.....mainly prop fouling. I finally gave up and let the boat swing with the breeze. With the bow into the wind, there is less rocking/ boat movement. As a qualifier, my boat is in a large fresh water lake, generally anchored in less than 25' depth and in protected coves.

Phil
 
Does anyone think tying the bridle further back on the middle cleats would help reduce the swaying? Bill
 
I have no experience with the Cutwater specifically, but this issue is generally resolved by running the rode anywhere other than directly off the bow. Or by using an unbalanced bridle to accomplish the same thing. It may be as simple as running a bridle through a hawse cleat on only one side and tightening it until it takes the full load. Bottom line is that you need to configure it so that the line is pulling in such a manner as to apply an unbalanced force to the hull. Aero/hydrodynamics will take care of the rest.

Keep in mind that if foul weather blows up you want to be able to return to a "normal" configuration.

This is much like balancing the sails on a boat to heave too. The load needs to be offset enough to achieve a balance while preventing the boat from "tacking" and heading off in the opposite direction. Although when it happens in a sailboat with the helm tied off she usually takes then goes full about and subsequently jibes. Which can really be bad if you're laying to in a blow...
 
bill j":l3hhr0kh said:
Does anyone think tying the bridle further back on the middle cleats would help reduce the swaying? Bill
I didn't see this. See my prior post.

Try running a line from one of the side cleats and attaching it to the rode a few feet from the bow with a rolling hitch. Then you can take in/let out on the line to the cleat until you reach a balance where the boat is happy. Unless there is something really flaky with the hull of the Cutwater, you should find an equilibrium point where the boat will settle down with the bow a few degrees off the wind/current.

On Edit: For the rolling hitch to get a grip either the rode or the messenger line should be three strand rope. Both nylon braid might be OK but if the messenger is a modern synthetic it may not grip well.
 
Ladybug, Too - what size/type of stern anchor do you use? I am looking to obtain one for my R-29. Thanks.
 
We used to frequently use a bridle asymmetrically on the sailing trimaran we had before our C-Dory. That boat had a 20' beam, and using a bridal that way (with a rolling hitch from the mid-ship cleat to the main rode) made a significant difference. I'm not a big fan of a stern anchor if there is a chance of a strong tide change or a significant change in wind direction - you may find yourself at odds with other boats that are swinging more typically. Or worse: significant water movement from the stern.

Another good option is two anchors off the boat's bow in a "forked moor", explained here...

Using two anchors set approximately 45° apart, or wider angles up to 90°, from the bow is a strong mooring for facing into strong winds. To set anchors in this way, first one anchor is set in the normal fashion. Then, taking in on the first cable as the boat is motored into the wind and letting slack while drifting back, a second anchor is set approximately a half-scope away from the first on a line perpendicular to the wind. After this second anchor is set, the scope on the first is taken up until the vessel is lying between the two anchors and the load is taken equally on each cable. This moor also to some degree limits the range of a vessel's swing to a narrower oval. Care should be taken that other vessels will not swing down on the boat due to the limited swing range.

One trade-off of a trailerable boat (and the relatively shoal draft) is the fact that it may "sail" a bit at anchor. Your wife may find that movement of sailing at anchor disturbing at first, but may come to enjoy the feel of the boat at anchor.

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
Has anyone ever tried an anchor sail? On my previous boat (a sail boat) I had a small triangle sail I would put on the boom when the breeze picked up while on the hook. It stopped that back and forth swing. I can't use a stern anchor because the anchorages are too crowded. Unless everyone has a stern anchor there is trouble in the morning!
 
I use 2 x small anchors (10ft of chain and 40ft of rode) off the stern cleats. Works great for shallow anchoring. The remote thruster also comes in handy after I set the bow anchor. Wife normally complains but doesn't under this setup. 🙂
 
Tugbuyer,

We use a Lewmar 11.0 lb. claw, 8 ft. of chain and 50 ft. of 1/2 inch twist nylon with eye splices and a nylon wear eye for the chain shackle. We slip the eye splice on the stern cleat, toss the anchor and chain and run out until it sets the stern anchor. The bow anchor is then dropped and we take up slack on the stern line without reversing. This works for us because we have a sandy bottom and a near shore sand bar with a quick drop off to about 12 ft. Probably not good for rocky bottom or deep water. I think I'll try the choker to the side cleat described in an earlier post. We will still use the stern anchor for the Blue Angels homecoming show as it keeps the show on our bow.

Pat & Carolyn
Laybug, Too
 
Thanks Pat/Carolyn. I was wondering how large/heavy an anchor I needed for stern. Your info is very helpful. Happy holidays.

Dan (Tugbuyer)
 
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